got a question, welding a new 4spd tunnel......

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gilberttitan08

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Does the 4spd tunnel have to be welded on dead nutts?
My buddy and I are welding it in tomorrow and I wanna make sure it has to be perfect in place otherwise am I screwed, if it is off?
 
Well; If you have it in dead nuts-how can you tell?If you are just welding in the hump,just make the top level and fit the hump to the floor.If you are welding in a complete tunnel with the hump,it has to fit the firewall and the driveshaft hump.It really isn't rocket science,I have welded quite a few but I'm not really sure any were"dead nuts"
 
So it doesn't have to be perfect, thanks so much. I had it laid out and screwed down ready for welding. I didn't to sound so sophisticated, my buddy is trying to cover my ***. Thanks.
 
No problem,sounds like you have it set up.They were mass produced by regular people and some drunks,so they did make provisions for that also.Good Luck on the car!!!
 
Put the trans and the shifter in make sure the rods clear and that the shifter is close to centered in the hole . Easier to fix now than later. That's my advise :eek:ops:
 
if it is an AMD peice i think it ends up about 2 inches from the floor to firewall seam...

but your best bet it to install the trans and shifter... its the hole for the shifter that ends up being an issue not the rods...
 
Put the trans and the shifter in make sure the rods clear and that the shifter is close to centered in the hole . Easier to fix now than later. That's my advise :eek:ops:

I put a four speed in a Duster one time and my buddy hacked the floor with a torch to get it to fit. How much really needs to be taken out of the stock tunnel to clear the rods and shifter? I don't recall ever seeing a picture of this set up without the hump in place.
 
When I did mine I laid it on the floor and tunnel, scribed a line around it, removed it and then traced a line 1" inside the first then cut it out worked perfect both times that I did it.
 
When I did mine I laid it on the floor and tunnel, scribed a line around it, removed it and then traced a line 1" inside the first then cut it out worked perfect both times that I did it.
That's what I did. The contour on the flange of the hump locate it. Then I bolted in a trans to make sure the hole was relatively centered. The boot offers lots of room for error.
 
This is what an original floor hump and the factory cut out under it looks like separated.
This was out of a '71 Duster.
 

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Heres a factory tunnel
 

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Put the trans and the shifter in make sure the rods clear and that the shifter is close to centered in the hole . Easier to fix now than later. That's my advise :eek:ops:
100% agree. One of the best ways to successful welding and fabrication is to carefully line things up, check to make sure you have enough clearance where its needed and put some tack welds in, then go back and look for any issues that need to be delt with BEFORE you weld it completely. Don't rush the job and it will be done right.
 
Hi just doing the same mod myself, do you retain the humped crossmember, do the shifter rods/linkage clear it.
thanks
 
Hi just doing the same mod myself, do you retain the humped crossmember, do the shifter rods/linkage clear it.
thanks

DO NOT cut the trans xmember and if they are the correct rods, they will clear it. Reverse rod will go under the xmember.
 
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