Grinding 360 block for 4 " stroke clearance.

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jimmer

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What do I need to know ?

Who has done this ?

It makes me nervous grinding on block !

I'll be honest , I'm scared to destroy my block !

Can the experienced on this give me a crash coarse ?

Stuff has been sitting far too long !
I need to get this done !!

What do I need to know ?
 
I just mocked up my crank and rods then used a Sharpie to mark the block as I rotated the assembly. Then took the die grinder with a carbide and mad halfmoon notches ( not to be confused with Natchos) on the bottom of the bore.

My Scat assembly would have cleared anyways but I wanted a little extra margine.
 
I just happen to be assembling mine right now... you can see in the last pic how much clearance there is.

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I thought that is what needs to be done.
Just nervous about grinding.

I put one rod on crank and spun it.
The bolt barely touched the block, but still did touch it.
I just don't want to hurt the block.
 
The cap screw style rods seem to clear but the stock rod bolt/nut combo needs the slightest touch with the die grinder. Just give yourself .100
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Mines down for a broken piston ring.
 
I used a set of stock rods to check the clearance . That way I was assured of adequate clearance and it was easier to mark the correct spot because the rod kissed the bore a smidge...
 
Scat I-beams clear with no grinding...and they're lighter...and they're cheaper...and they are plenty strong for a production block build. Just food for thought.
 
I already have h beam and the rotating assembly is balanced.
 
Check the under-side of the oil pump for the counterweight clearance.
u can get by with a lot less than .100 , if anything moves that much , it`s too late anyway !!
I ran about .030 on a stroked sbc w/ h beam rods and cap screws , which is about 10 times the bearing clearance as far as crankshaft movement is concerned.
 
Add some few thousandths more for flexing of various bits and pieces.... still not a lot needed IMHO.

For the OP, just makes sure the edges of the notches are all smoothed out (so that there will be no tendency to start a crack at a sharp edge) and carry on. Been done thousands and thousands of times.
 
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