hard block

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cudaman51

cudaman51

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has anybody tried to remove hard block from a small block mopar. i believe it contributed to a failure in my 340 engine
 
There is a method to remove it but I don't recall it at the moment. Well if you tried running it on the street and it over heated than yes it probably did contribute to its failure.
 
just for every one to understand my logic. when i cruzed at 70 mph for long times the oil pressure would drop below the 10psi per 1000rpm limit. if you went faster it would get worse i put 20000 miles on it. all the rod bearings were scufed and one spun.. the engine builder put a sleve in it and he thought it was a good idea to sucure the sleve
 
the engine never really got over 210 degres at the sending unit but i am sure below the heads it was
 
If you are loosing a lot of rod bearings and not mains, there's an oiling issue, I would suspect. That engine was designed to do, exactly what you are saying it's not surviving. I think I'd study Guitar Jones oiling mods and try to decide where the oil is getting pumped thru that particular engine, somethings wrong somewhere in there.
 
When you use hard block it eliminates the engine coolant's ability to regulate the oil temp. I'd imagine a nice external oil cooler and oil temp gauge would solve your problem without removing the hard block.
 
So this is used to strengthen the lower end, web? Ive never seen this before. I have only built one high HP engine and that was SBC. MT
 
"the engine never really got over 210 degres at the sending unit but i am sure below the heads it was"
Remember you're looking at indicated temperature of the coolant. If it isn't picking up any heat, that is not a valid indicator of engine temps. I'd bet the lower end got much hotter than you think becuase that heat never got into the coolant.

I don't know of any effective way to remove it. It's a permanent solution. As UOP said - by removing volume and surface area from the coolant system, you shift more cooling duties to the oiling system. If you "must" run a filled block , even 1/2 way, you really have to invest in an oil cooler, a higher volume sump, and I think it's a good idea to run an oil temp gage.
 
It basically mimics cast iron in terms of strength. So it adds strength to the cylinder walls, and a little to the main webbing. But it does this by replacing cooling system volume with concrete... It's a race solution that has no business in a street car IMO.
 
Watched the video...but; what's the point of filling the block? He doesn't say.
 
hard block stiffens cylinder bores from distorting under load. this causes loss of ring seal, which is loss of horse power. it is for race only, yes it does make more power. also, by stiffening cylinder bores piston clearance stays same. sell block to a drag racer, more luck selling it to a stock eliminator racer.
 
moper said:
It basically mimics cast iron in terms of strength. So it adds strength to the cylinder walls, and a little to the main webbing. But it does this by replacing cooling system volume with concrete... It's a race solution that has no business in a street car IMO.
Click to expand...

Thanks Moper! MT:burnout:
 
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