Harmonic balancer 340

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Rent the proper tool from a parts store, if you try to remove the balancer without the right tool you will damage the balancer.
 
AJ/FormS said:
What are the chances your thrust bearing is kapput? I think there's only about 1/8 " to be had there, but I guess it's worth a check.
I pulled a teener once, with a shot bearing. The TC bolts were cutting a channel into the back of the block already.They had "machined" their way into the rear cam plug. It required brazing to repair, and the crank was junk. I think I tossed the rods too. The block lived. It became my winter motor, years ago.I can't say it's related but the tranny behind it was puking oil too.

Easy check; just pry the balancer forward, then push it to the rear. End play usually falls around .007 to .010. It should not "clunk". .010 is about the thickness of two or three pages of newspapers.
Yes you need a special tool to pull that balancer off. And a longer bolt plus some anti-seize to reinstall it.
I'm not sure removing it will accomplish anything. There's nothing in there to prevent the balancer from seating. With the possible exception of the oil flinger. I suppose it could have become dislocated from the key during a careless damper install, but that's nearly impossible. Even if it was on backwards, once the cover is on, I don't think it can move forward enough to come past the key.Anybody know for sure?
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So I pry the balancer forward and see if it has any slop?
 
I think I will try to run a tap in there to clean threads and put a new crank bolt in there.
 
To check the thrust, you use something to push/pry the crank as far forward as it will go, and then push the crank back as far as it will go. The movement is the thrust bearing clearance. It should not take a lot of force to move the crank forward and backwards; if you are not looking closely for this small movement, you will miss it. Have the damper's bolt and snugged in place when you do this, if you pry against the damper.

Was this engine just rebuilt? (Or am I confusing this with another thread?)

If you have .25" between the timing marks and the back of the damper, that is certainly sounds like an issue. But also check the damper to make sure the weight ring has not moved forward on the hub. The hub and ring are separate, and are glued to gether with a thin ring shaped layer of rubber between. On an old damper, they can separate and not stay aligned.

Some pix from the side showing your damper and the hub from the side, as well as the timing mark area on the cover, would help everybody.

At this point, I would be inclined to make a quick check of thrust and then pull the damper off to see what is going on.
 
Pics are in #3 and #16. Not the best but, IMHO,the ring doesn't appear to be out by as much as OP is thinking.

Hey, let's have a look at that bolt. Ima wondering if it's too long. That would explain why the end of it is damaged! Maybe put a stack of washers under the head, equal to or a bit more than the distance you need. Then after thread repairs, give that a try. Use anti-seize between at least two washers to act as a bearing/lube during the tightening process. Finally refer to earlier posts , re tightening procedure, and the torque spec. The torque spec is without antiseize so clean it off before final torque. The threads should be lightly oiled, NOT antiseized.
 
If the info on March's site is correct, from the pulley mounting surface on the water pump it should be 4.500" to the pulley mounting surface on the damper on a 340.
 
Majestic said:
So I measured the balancer. It was 2.75 from cover and .5 from timing marks. So I think its close to 3/8 off. I removed the crank bolt and the threads have minor damage. Do I need a special tool to remove the balancer?
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How long is your crank bolt?

How are you installing the harmonic balancer? Are you sure that it's seated all the way?
 
What pulley set-up are you using? Can you post some clear pictures of them and the front of the engine that you're working on?

Do you have all of the proper pulleys for the a/c set-up?

Is everything properly mounted?
 
Here's some pictures showing what's going on under the timing chain cover. Keep in mind that this does not show the oil slinger, as this engine is being used as a slave to degree cams, so I only assembled what I needed to degree the cam...

But you can see that the timing gear for the crank bottoms out on the front face of he crank journal, then the crank gear, then the oil slinger should be there, then the felt pad ring , then the vibration damper, then the pulley goes on the front face of the vibration damper.

View attachment Vib Damp Seat A01 B.jpg

View attachment Vib Damp Seat A02 B.jpg

View attachment Vib Damp Seat A03 B.jpg

View attachment Vib Damp Seat A04 B.jpg
 
Thanks for all the replies. I will try to post some pics later. My phone is having problems today on this site. I got a remover and installer tools. I got to pick up a tap 3/4 x 16 according to summit. I'm gonna try to run that tap in and clean the threads. My mechanic said he ran it in with his air ratchet and don't believe it will pull in any more. I think it has something to do with the threads. The bolt is 2" long from the washer to the end of bolt. The threads are damaged only about .375 from the end of bolt. I hope I can pull this balancer where it needs to go with the tool or I'm gonna try a different balancer I guess.
 
Buy a new bolt... no need to muck the internal threads in the crank any more than they are. It ought to be a grade 8. (IMO.... your mechanic is a knothead for running this in with an impact wrench. Impact wrenches can turn minor problems into major ones.)

A 2" bolt ought to go all the way in with the damper. If not, then the threads in the crank may be damaged. If so, then you can get a new set of bolt: a 2.5" long one to start the damper onto the crank snout and pull it down at least 1", and then a 2" (and a 1.5" if the threads are damaged deep in the hole) to finally pull it into place. Once the damper is down snug where it should be, then the short bolt should be fine to achieve the final torque of 135 fl-lbs, even if it only has 1/2"-3/4" of the threads engaged. The interference fit of the damper on the crank really does the work.

BTW, very good pix, KK.
 
Yeah, that is a LOT further out than our engine, KK's, and sireland's. Looks like yours is 1/2" to the timing marks, not the approx 1/8" of the rest. Time to pull the damper, IMO.
 
BTW, KK, your pix is very useful. If you look at your 360 damper, vs the 340 damper, the weight is further out on the 360 than on the 340. Which it should be, as the external moment needs to be larger for the 360 than the 340.
 
nm9stheham said:
BTW, KK, your pix is very useful. If you look at your 360 damper, vs the 340 damper, the weight is further out on the 360 than on the 340. Which it should be, as the external moment needs to be larger for the 360 than the 340.
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My damper says 340
 
justinp61 said:
If the info on March's site is correct, from the pulley mounting surface on the water pump it should be 4.500" to the pulley mounting surface on the damper on a 340.
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I think this is right because right now I measure 4.125. That's about 3/8 off. It seems to be that 3/8 on all the measurements I have taken compared to everyone else.
 
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