Has anyone successfully bored a 318 to 4.04?

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I have been wondering about this too. I have a set of 4 inch flat top pistons for a 360 that I want to use in a 318 to duplicate HotrodDaves super duper mpg 318 build. Would it be safe In a Daily driver or would the 9.5:1 compression crack a cylinder?

you would have to sonic check the block to be sure 4 inch bore is possible. Are you going to use the 360 crank? You will have to, as the pistons you talk about are for a 3.58 stroke. There is MORE costly machine work......
 
I have been wondering about this too. I have a set of 4 inch flat top pistons for a 360 that I want to use in a 318 to duplicate HotrodDaves super duper mpg 318 build. Would it be safe In a Daily driver or would the 9.5:1 compression crack a cylinder?

I've seen and read HotRodDaves build. I just would not do a direct copy though. Heres why.

Less cylinder boring out means a smaller engine. It is harder to get better mileage from a larger engine. While the overbore should only be done to get a great start, do a min. overbore to do so.
It also means a thicker cylinder wall. Less flexing of the cylinder even though it is a low powered engine. (AKA less stress) A thicker wall is longer life.

Dave did well with his build.
 
LOL, don't know how I got onto this one today!! Too many hobbies on the brain.... Motorola ham radio conversions mixed up with a new SBM build plan and all the excitement of the Nats in Ohio all in one weekend....
 
LOL, don't know how I got onto this one today!! Too many hobbies on the brain.... Motorola ham radio conversions mixed up with a new SBM build plan and all the excitement of the Nats in Ohio all in one weekend....

I'm just foolin'......it ain't that old.

Cool subject too. ...
 
After I found that I had cranked my 340/416 block . I was going to use an 318 that I have got an I had ask mike of MRL if I could use my Pistons an crank in this 318 . He said I could used crank but the piston I could not I would have to cut the block to.0160 overs an it would not be a good call .but my block was a storker engine with 030 over an 4.07 bore
 
In the grand scheme of street/strip type build things, and as it relates to power production, bore size means next to nothing. At some point it ether allows for, or doesn't allow for certain valve size packages but the reality is the best case scenario for any given block is the smallest bore, leaving the thickest cylinder walls. Area of the piston for force to act upon only applies to those areas that actually will contribute to making power. The outermost edges are not included in those areas. They are wasted space, that robs heat, allows for detonation to start, and adds volume. I believe that was the major contributor to the 340s being replaced with the samller bore, longer stroke 360. I've read that several studies that indicated in terms of small bllocks that bores beyond 4" begin to take away more than they give in terms of individual cylinder production because of the dead areas above the rings, additional weight, and more rock at TDC. Personally I haven't explored that much as my engines simply are not so scienced out that bore size would make a noticable difference. So the adage of "run the smallest over-bore you have to" makes the most sense, and I'll take it a step further and say "run the smallest, shelf-available piston you can". That will keep the cost to a minimum, and the return to a maximum without overthinking everything.
 
I have done it with an early 318 Truck Block. I put a 4" crank in it too. The one with 4 ears. I still have 1 left.

1wild&crazyguy has done it as well.
 
I have a 71 318 Truck block that was bored to 4.040 in my 66 Dart. The engine has KB243 pistons pressed unto 360 rods. The heads are closed chambered 315's off my tired 273 with 1.88/1.50 valves, ported 214 intake/165 exhaust with the chambers cut to bore and blended to heart shape. The cam is a Schneider .473 lift @.050 and with Doug's headers. It was Dynoed during final tune with 349 ft/lb torque at 2400 RPM and 229 RWHP at 4500 RPM. It may not suit some people's needs, but I really love the old school Hot Rod build. I've put 3000 miles on it so far and it is a blast to drive. 1wild&crazyguy built this for me and it came exactly as he advertised it. This site really misses 1wild&crazyguy and all his Mopar knowledge.
 
I have a 71 318 Truck block that was bored to 4.040 in my 66 Dart. The engine has KB243 pistons pressed unto 360 rods. The heads are closed chambered 315's off my tired 273 with 1.88/1.50 valves, ported 214 intake/165 exhaust with the chambers cut to bore and blended to heart shape. The cam is a Schneider .473 lift @.050 and with Doug's headers. It was Dynoed during final tune with 349 ft/lb torque at 2400 RPM and 229 RWHP at 4500 RPM. It may not suit some people's needs, but I really love the old school Hot Rod build. I've put 3000 miles on it so far and it is a blast to drive. 1wild&crazyguy built this for me and it came exactly as he advertised it. This site really misses 1wild&crazyguy and all his Mopar knowledge.

sounds pretty soggy for all that amount of work. But if your enjoying it, that's whats important!
 
I just built on over the winter. Used a 69 block for ma 69 coronet with 29,000 miles.

Early j heads 2.02/1.60 valve ported to the max, 565 lift cam 295/315 duration. stock cast crank 340 rods and KB243 pistons. have just over $1400 into the short block assembled and heads redone.

The machinist said there's still meat left(not for boring) motor will run hotter than normal, so I am going with an aluminum radiator.

The motors going in a 73 valiant I just picked up with 71,000 miles.

I just did it because of a the naysayers!!
 
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