Hate to do it

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If you think the difference between a Mopar and non Mopar rear end means being able to afford the hobby or not, get out of it. Now.
This is the best answer on here so far. Face reality, you can or can't afford the hobby.
And also i may add, you could have an 8 1/4 ready to drop in with a sure grip and new brakes for under $500 if you shop around.
Forget the 8.8, it's too much hassle if you can't do your own fabricating.
(I'll leave your wife out of this, you would hate my opinion anyway...........)
JMHO.
 
It would seem to me that the first issue you need to address before that rear end is your relationship with your wife.

Rusty is spot on. It doesn't matter what brand you run.
 
If you have a functioning 7 1/4 run it. If it is non functioning you can replace it for next to nothing. I gave a perfectly good one away just to get it out of my sight when I installed my 8 1/4 SG unit. You will find that no matter what you do with your car, there is never enough money or spousal satisfaction to accomplish your goals, adjust the bar and drive the car!
JHMO--------------DR---------------:steering:
 
Well, the OP doesn't mention budget. That's where I would start, then look around. Thinking you can't afford it before you even start is kind of self defeating.

I put a complete B body rear, new 3.55 R&P, all new bearings, seals and a used (rebuilt by me) suregrip in my car for right at 600 bucks. That's a fair price in my book.
 
If you think the difference between a Mopar and non Mopar rear end means being able to afford the hobby or not, get out of it. Now.
This isn't a hobby, it is a money issue plain and simple, not being able to afford something and trying to find a different alternative should not be viewed negatively and having some one like you to tell me since I can't afford something to just get out, really? Self righteous and condescending come to mind, because I can't say what I really want to on here.
 
All he said for budget was he is not allowed to spend thousands on a rear.
Thousands on the car... Would be different.

An 8-1/4 is inexpensive and an easy to rear to upgrade. Go for that rear. It will hold some good street power, no problem.
 
This isn't a hobby, it is a money issue plain and simple, not being able to afford something and trying to find a different alternative should not be viewed negatively and having some one like you to tell me since I can't afford something to just get out, really? Self righteous and condescending come to mind, because I can't say what I really want to on here.

It was a joke...tongue in cheek. With no name calling, btw. That's ok though. You are added to my "no help" list.
 
OK, so I have the same 7 1/4 in my car because it was a 6 cyl. car. Are you guys saying that rear is fine with a stock 318 in it? Do they make better gears for the 7 1/4?
 
I'll chime in for what it's worth. A good tight 7 1/4" will be fine for a stock 318. It will be a pegleg but that never hurt no one! Of course you can abuse any car drivetrain to the point it will break but the idea that everyone needs a Dana-60 for 300 HP is ludicrous.(and not the rapper) My stock 273 was rated at 180 HP as a 2V car with a 904 and I raced the hell out of that car with the stock 7 1/4 to no ill effect. (state cops being the exception to that deal) To upgrade from a 7 1/4 to 8 1/4 or 8 3/4 means changing the shock mount plates and u-bolts as well as shortening the driveline and that is potentially just the start.
Cheers and happy mopar motoring--------------DR--------------:D
 
This isn't a hobby, it is a money issue plain and simple, not being able to afford something and trying to find a different alternative should not be viewed negatively and having some one like you to tell me since I can't afford something to just get out, really? Self righteous and condescending come to mind, because I can't say what I really want to on here.

No one is being mean or negative or condescending. You've simply painted yourself into a corner. If you can't afford an 8.25", then you can't afford a new axle. Period. That's unfortunate.

If you're serious about upgrading it, you'll scour the yards and swaps and internet and ebay and make friends who own driveline shops and get your axle built for a decent price. But then your wife will probably dislike you disappearing on this epic Mopar quest for such a long time (that's a joke btw). If you think there's a turn-key axle out there from another mfg that's just one DIY angle-grinder job away from fitting your car, you're simply mistaken. We all wish there was, but then they'd be in enough demand that they wouldn't remain cheap for long.
 
Found this little bit of information from waywardmusclecars.
Rear Ends for the Mopar A-body

B-body axle in the A-body
Another alternative can be used to replace an existing 8-3/4" or the smaller 7-1/4" or 8-1/4" axles. An axle from a 66-70 B-body can be in- stalled in the A-body (note: a 62-64 axle can be used, but it does not contain the flanged axles of the later units). The later sport coupe style cars, Duster, Demon, Dart Sport, have the roomiest fenderwells. The 67-76 sedan and hardtop models have less. The 60-66 appear to be the tightest fit. The A-body has a spring perch spacing of 43.0", the 66-70 B-body is 44.0". To mount the B-body axle on the A-body springs, the perches need to be removed and new ones welded in place 1/2" inward from the original location on each side. The B-body track width is greater than the A-body. This may be a concern depending on the wheel/tire combination. The wider track enhances handling and aesthetics to some degree. This has been performed on the author's 73 Duster, now equipped with 15x6.5" rallye wheels and P255/60R-15 tires with 11x2.5" brakes. Originally setup with 15x7" rallye wheels and P275/60R-15 tires with rolled fender lips. The larger tires exhibited scrubbing when loaded on dips/bumps. If replacing a 7-1/4" or 8-1/4" axle, the driveshaft must be changed as the axle centerline to yoke centerline is greater for the 8-3/4" (12.35" vs. 10.09" for 7-1/4" and 11.69" for 8-1/4"). If changing a 7-1/4" axle the shock plates and u-bolts/nuts must be changed to the larger units from an 8-3/4" car.

Granada rear-end in a Mopar A-body?

The Ford axle is an 8" unit. So yes, its stronger than a 7.25" (anything is). The center drops out like the Chrysler 8 3/4 and Ford 9". If so, its a good thing. The only drawback to an 8" is that gears and posi units are harder to find than an 8-3/4.

The 8" Ford is a drop in replacement. Everything lines up, you need to use the mopar barking brake cables and a Ford/Mopar adapter U-joint.

The overall width of the Granadas 8" Ford axle is 57", the overall width of an A-body axle is 56 1/4". The spring perches are the same at 43".

The 8" Ford axle from the Granada is 3/4" wider then the standard A-body axle. The spring perches are in the same location. They use 3" U bolts, so 8.25", 8.75", 9.25" shock plates are needed. The 7.25" driveshaft should bolt on with an combination U joint. I would suspect that they weight about the same as the 8.25". Street Rodder has an article on the available drum brake packages for this axle in the current issue (two Ford, one Currie). There are several disk brake setup available, one from CE, one from Currie and there are most likely others.

Some Granadas had 9" units! , check the bottom bolt. if you can fit a box end wrench on it 8", if only an open end fits, 9" !

The Ford 9" and/or 8.75" axles will be found behind 351 powered Granadas/Monarchs. Everything else, used the 8" axle. Avoid the 8.75" axle, it is not supported by the aftermarket nor Ford. This axle can be identified by the bolt on rear cover. It looks vaguely like the 8.8" axle.

Some 8" Ford axles are a drop in replacement in an A-body as far as width of spring perches. Of course the 8" is not as strong as the 9" but it's good enough for most slant sixes and is not too heavy. It's a cheap non-permanent modifiation which might look like the 8 3/4 at first glance. I like the looks of the banjo type housing. The 8" Ford is the removeable carrier type like the Mopar 8 3/4. These go for $60 at the local pick-n-pull. I rarely see an A-body 8 3/4 in a salvage yard for a price that I can afford, plus those have the 4" bolt pattern which require new axle shafts for better wheel choices.

A buddy of mine with a '66 Mustang weighed his 8" 2.90 open center section at 55 lbs.

My 8.75" 2.94 open is 69 lbs. 3.91 SG is 75 lbs. 8.75" A-body housing (bare) is 40 lbs, and the small-bolt axles w/brngs are 33 lbs. 10X1.75" brakes are another 20-25 lbs - total around 175.

I bet the 8" with regular drums is around 25-30 lbs lighter than an A-body 8.75"

Ranger rear-end?

The Ranger rear end is a 7.5", also found in Bronco II , many are traction-locks, most had a 3.45, 3.73, or 4.10 ratio and parts are cheap because the same carrier came in mustangs etc. with V6s. These might be a good option.

The width is about 1/2" narrower than an A-body rearend and it's got the 4 1/2" bolt pattern. I'll have to move the spring perch's to the bottom of the axle housing. But this thing looks big and strong when you put it up next to a 7 1/4" mopar.

Pinto Wagons?

Pinto wagons have 8" axles with 3.50 gears. The carrier drops out like an 8 3/4.

waywardmusclecars.com

Rear Ends for the Mopar A-body

B-body axle in the A-body
Another alternative can be used to replace an existing 8-3/4" or the smaller 7-1/4" or 8-1/4" axles. An axle from a 66-70 B-body can be in- stalled in the A-body (note: a 62-64 axle can be used, but it does not contain the flanged axles of the later units). The later sport coupe style cars, Duster, Demon, Dart Sport, have the roomiest fenderwells. The 67-76 sedan and hardtop models have less. The 60-66 appear to be the tightest fit. The A-body has a spring perch spacing of 43.0", the 66-70 B-body is 44.0". To mount the B-body axle on the A-body springs, the perches need to be removed and new ones welded in place 1/2" inward from the original location on each side. The B-body track width is greater than the A-body. This may be a concern depending on the wheel/tire combination. The wider track enhances handling and aesthetics to some degree. This has been performed on the author's 73 Duster, now equipped with 15x6.5" rallye wheels and P255/60R-15 tires with 11x2.5" brakes. Originally setup with 15x7" rallye wheels and P275/60R-15 tires will rolled fender lips. The larger tires exhibited scrubbing when loaded on dips/bumps. If replacing a 7-1/4" or 8-1/4" axle, the driveshaft must be changed as the axle centerline to yoke centerline is greater for the 8-3/4" (12.35" vs. 10.09" for 7-1/4" and 11.69" for 8-1/4"). If changing a 7-1/4" axle the shock plates and u-bolts/nuts must be changed to the larger units from an 8-3/4" car.

Granada rear-end in a Mopar A-body?

The Ford axle is an 8" unit. So yes, its stronger than a 7.25" (anything is). The center drops out like the Chrysler 8 3/4 and Ford 9". If so, its a good thing. The only drawback to an 8" is that gears and posi units are harder to find than an 8-3/4.

The 8" Ford is a drop in replacement. Everything lines up, you need to use the mopar barking brake cables and a Ford/Mopar adapter U-joint.

The overall width of the Granadas 8" Ford axle is 57", the overall width of an A-body axle is 56 1/4". The spring perches are the same at 43".

The 8" Ford axle from the Granada is 3/4" wider then the standard A-body axle. The spring perches are in the same location. They use 3" U bolts, so 8.25", 8.75", 9.25" shock plates are needed. The 7.25" driveshaft should bolt on with an combination U joint. I would suspect that they weight about the same as the 8.25". Street Rodder has an article on the available drum brake packages for this axle in the current issue (two Ford, one Currie). There are several disk brake setup available, one from CE, one from Currie and there are most likely others.

Some Granadas had 9" units! , check the bottom bolt. if you can fit a box end wrench on it 8", if only an open end fits, 9" !

The Ford 9" and/or 8.75" axles will be found behind 351 powered Granadas/Monarchs. Everything else, used the 8" axle. Avoid the 8.75" axle, it is not supported by the aftermarket nor Ford. This axle can be identified by the bolt on rear cover. It looks vaguely like the 8.8" axle.

Some 8" Ford axles are a drop in replacement in an A-body as far as width of spring perches. Of course the 8" is not as strong as the 9" but it's good enough for most slant sixes and is not too heavy. It's a cheap non-permanent modifiation which might look like the 8 3/4 at first glance. I like the looks of the banjo type housing. The 8" Ford is the removeable carrier type like the Mopar 8 3/4. These go for $60 at the local pick-n-pull. I rarely see an A-body 8 3/4 in a salvage yard for a price that I can afford, plus those have the 4" bolt pattern which require new axle shafts for better wheel choices.

A buddy of mine with a '66 Mustang weighed his 8" 2.90 open center section at 55 lbs.

My 8.75" 2.94 open is 69 lbs. 3.91 SG is 75 lbs. 8.75" A-body housing (bare) is 40 lbs, and the small-bolt axles w/brngs are 33 lbs. 10X1.75" brakes are another 20-25 lbs - total around 175.

I bet the 8" with regular drums is around 25-30 lbs lighter than an A-body 8.75"

Ranger rear-end?

The Ranger rear end is a 7.5", also found in Bronco II , many are traction-locks, most had a 3.45, 3.73, or 4.10 ratio and parts are cheap because the same carrier came in mustangs etc. with V6s. These might be a good option.

The width is about 1/2" narrower than an A-body rearend and it's got the 4 1/2" bolt pattern. I'll have to move the spring pearch's to the bottom of the axle housing. But this thing looks big and strong when you put it up next to a 7 1/4" mopar.

Pinto Wagons?

Pinto wagons have 8" axles with 3.50 gears. The carrier drops out like an 8 3/4.
 
What about a F body 8 1/4 axle?
8 3/4 pinion angle
I've put a (Cop) Diplomat under a "Duster". Even with 15 cop rims it works. I added a spring to stiffen it up and prevent any chance of hitting bumps with a load and rubbing.
I cut the perches off and moved them. Had to weld a washer in the larger Diplomat perch hole. Used the car as a jig. Tacked the perches for the angle. Took it out and welded it. Remember the 8 1/4 has larger tubes so the 7 1/4 perches won't work.
Use the Diplomat brake cables. Works fine.
And shorten the Dip drive shaft.
I can't say about a Swinger. Would be too tight I would imagine.
 
If RRR woulda wanted to be condescending, he mighta said something about the size of...
OOps my won't let me finish that.lol,lol

Put a S.G. in it and best quality oil.. It will be ok. What kills em is peg-legging. When you do that, you double the speed of the case, and force all the power into those little tiny pair of spiders, which are whirling around like a cyclone. When the oil gives up it can seize the crosspin. If it starts banging back and forth from one wheel to the other it will spit out the spiders ka-boom. If the spinning wheel is allowed to suddenly bite, same deal. If you get away with it one time, doesn't mean no damage. Sooner or later the crosspin will waller out the saddle and then it's just a matter of occasion and the crosspin will vacate it's residence. Unfortunately on it's way out it usually tears everything to shreds. I've never heard of one going into the gastank. Yet. Sometimes it locks up the whole shebang; not good at 4000rpm
So SG and oil.Drive a 100,000 miles with a 2bbl teener.Maybe 200,000.Or more.
I'm married too.I do as I please. pretty much.Going on 40 years.Don't get me started.....
 
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Ok when I am wrong I say so, I am sorry for not taking that comment about "Get out now" as a joke. With no facial expressions to see, voice inflection to hear, just reading typed words, a lot can be lost in translation. This is my very first Mopar, and I am still learning, what to do, what can you do, what shouldn't you do, etc. etc. My plane is to rebuild my little 318, new heads, valves, etc, I want a little more get up and go, nothing major, from all I have learned on here, 360 heads, block zeroed etc., seems like a pretty reliable way to go. I can find all the parts for the motor, but I want to make sure I have a rear end before I do the rebuild because I would hate to have that done, but no drivetrain so my car just sits till I find one. I am one of those, get all the pieces before I start kinda guy. I was just trying to find out if anyone else has used something other than Mopar parts and what the out come was.
 
If you put the 360 heads on and a 4bbl, and a cam,and promise not to put 295s on, then what I said for a 2bbl teener, still applies.But if you put a 3500TC in,and 275s,then all bets are off.
The 360 heads with no other changes will lower your Static compression
A bigger cam will lower your Dynamic compression
If you can'spin the two tires, the 4 bbl won't come on til long after you are moving.
The stock TC will keep your engine in the soft power application
The skinny tires will not allow serious power transfer to the road
The SG will prevent one legger burn-outs
The best quality oil will help keep the guts cool and prevent metal to metal contact.

So what I'm suggesting is this; If you do not increase the Static compression, then the diff will actually have an easier time handling your proposed combo,than the stock teener combo.
A big TC will present the diff with more torque than the proposed combo, but perhaps not more than the stock combo. Bigger tires usually mean more traction, which present a higher load to the spider gears.
So it's all a balancing act.

But here's what I don't get; Why are we even talking about this? If you are not allowed to upgrade the rear end,........ How is Honey ever gonna let you massage the engine?

Here's what you need to do, SG,Oil, and gears, end of story, no engine mods.
Have a blast when Honey ain't looking.Ima thinking 3.73s. If 3.73sNA, then 3.55s and a little more TC, say 2200 to 2400.

If the current combo is are 2.76/1800, this new combo; 3.55/2200 , will put down over 30% more Big-Balled ponies. To do that with engine alone will require about 300hp and up here around $5000,And that will be hard to hide from Honey. With that engine you will still have to do, SG,oil,and gears; and, to top it off,it will NEED a big TC, cuz the 300hp teener will fall on it's face without them, and or blow the peg-legger 7.25 up.
So for about a grand; SG,oil, and gears. And maybe a TC, if and only if 3.55s are a bit lazy off the line.
 
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I am one of those, get all the pieces before I start kinda guy. I was just trying to find out if anyone else has used something other than Mopar parts and what the out come was.

I'm confused as to why you would want to steer away from a Mopar rear. With some patience, a little work, you can get into an 8 1/4 rear pretty easy.

Still no mention of budget. Either way you go you're gonna have to drop some coin on it, it's not a "free" hobby.
 
I don't know why you don't wanna go 8-1/4? They WILL be cheaper than brand X rear ends no matter what you get. Hundreds of thousands of vehicles (primarily trucks) were made with it. You can pull one from a junk yard on the cheap. Just about every dodge truck for two decades had them. I would be highly surprised if you couldn't put an 8-1/4 in for less than 500. Is that not in your budget?
 
I don't know why you don't wanna go 8-1/4? They WILL be cheaper than brand X rear ends no matter what you get. Hundreds of thousands of vehicles (primarily trucks) were made with it. You can pull one from a junk yard on the cheap. Just about every dodge truck for two decades had them. I would be highly surprised if you couldn't put an 8-1/4 in for less than 500. Is that not in your budget?
I agreed with you, Lustle.
Heck, if the O.P. was closer, i would help him out and sell him a housing for cheap, i have like 10 of them i will probably never use.........
 
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