have a listen

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Just for fun. I checked timing with the dist hooked up to the carb and plugged. No change.........IS that right?
 
If you could get a good vacuum reading at some point that's where i would go next. If it's more then 11-12" at idle that would rule out my power valve theory. But depending on how erratic, or not, the gauge reads would also help rule out or confirm if there is a valve sealing issue.
I know i haven't mentioned it, but i prefer simple clean lines on cars and you got a really nice one. Red with the poverty caps, i love it:D.
 
71valiant said:
Just for fun. I checked timing with the dist hooked up to the carb and plugged. No change.........IS that right?
Click to expand...
For the most part yes, that's ported vacuum and you don't get any until the throttle plates open. Although i've had a few engines over the years that ran better with straight vacuum to the dizzy, i don't believe that's your problem.
 
OldmanRick said:
For the most part yes, that's ported vacuum and you don't get any until the throttle plates open. Although i've had a few engines over the years that ran better with straight vacuum to the dizzy, i don't believe that's your problem.
Click to expand...

As i've thought a little more, you may try straight vacuum just to see how it would effect it. Your vac. line should now be hooked to a port about 3/4 up on the metering block. There should be a port, that should be capped on the base plate and that would be straight vacuum. You could try switching them and see if you get a positive result?
 
Ok. Vac gauge first thing tomorrow. And thanks, I love the nice clean look too. It may be for sale soon. Lol
 
OldmanRick said:
As i've thought a little more, you may try straight vacuum just to see how it would effect it. Your vac. line should now be hooked to a port about 3/4 up on the metering block. There should be a port, that should be capped on the base plate and that would be straight vacuum. You could try switching them and see if you get a positive result?
Click to expand...

Yeah. Its ran into the metering block. I'll switch it out tomorrow and see if that helps any.
 
71valiant said:
Ok. Vac gauge first thing tomorrow. And thanks, I love the nice clean look too. It may be for sale soon. Lol
Click to expand...
You should be able to pick up a relatively cheap one at a regulation parts store and it's always good to have. Thank you for the back & forth. I'm no genius, just would like to help if i can.
 
PV will not affect it UNLESS the blades are so far open its in the transfer/main circuits...

i have a 6.5PV and mine idles @ 800 with like 10-5 inches, depending on which part of the lope its on LOL...

i see a good trend here... it likes timing! bad trend... that balancer is 40 years old and can be slipping, causing the timing marks to be WRONG...

what you need to do is make sure the piston is on TDC compression stroke, and see where the timing mark is... if it is within a couple degree's it will be fine for what were doing...

you need to have the dizzy recurved and the slots welded up... it probably gonna want at least 20 initial and 30 total (not including vac advance) if you dont your gonna break your top rings, been there...
 
Have You checked fuel pressure After the filter? I Know those glass filter don't Cloge But thay due back out and get the carb durty and also that little nut inside closes the little holes in the filter to. There have been times that a carb may need jetting if it surges. and maybe thats whats going on. One other thing was this engine just built ? Or was it running good then started acting up?
 
Ok. Compression test is as follows. Going from front to back.

Cyl 1-100 psi
Cyl 2-110 psi
Cyl 3-110 psi
Cyl 4-100 psi
Cyl 5-110 psi
Cyl 6-90 psi, This is the cylinder where I was getting a lot of the popping from before I advanced the timing.

Onto the vac test next. Not really sure where I need to test it from though.
 
Agree. Only thing is. I'll be doing a swap in the near future. But, obviously I'd love to be able to drive the damn thing before then. I just dont want to dump a ton of money and time into something thats going to be removed.
 
71valiant said:
Ok. Compression test is as follows. Going from front to back.

Cyl 1-100 psi
Cyl 2-110 psi
Cyl 3-110 psi
Cyl 4-100 psi
Cyl 5-110 psi
Cyl 6-90 psi, This is the cylinder where I was getting a lot of the popping from before I advanced the timing.

Onto the vac test next. Not really sure where I need to test it from though.
Click to expand...

Low on #6 yes, but not catastrophic. As far as the vac test, use the port on the baseplate that we talked about yesterday, if possible. If not the hose to the valve cover which is your PCV would be ok also.
 
needsaresto said:
Oh boy. #6 looks like it's sick..
Click to expand...

its not ideal but 90 compared to 110 and 100 is not bad for a stock motor with unknown miles on it...

that also tells you its a stock low compression motor... so its gonna like timing...

you need to have the curve redone and go from there...

also turn that carb 90* so the primaries are one the drivers fender...
 
OldmanRick said:
Low on #6 yes, but not catastrophic. As far as the vac test, use the port on the baseplate that we talked about yesterday, if possible. If not the hose to the valve cover which is your PCV would be ok also.
Click to expand...
Ok. Off to do the vac test.
805moparkid said:
its not ideal but 90 compared to 110 and 100 is not bad for a stock motor with unknown miles on it...

that also tells you its a stock low compression motor... so its gonna like timing...

you need to have the curve redone and go from there...

also turn that carb 90* so the primaries are one the drivers fender...
Click to expand...
Please explain? Not sure what you mean..
 
With the vac on the base plate on the front of the carb I'm getting 17 lbs vac at 850 rpm idle. Seems high?????
 
I turned the idle mix screws out a bit more. Its staying running in reverse. Its choking up a bit, struggling. But with a little tap on the gas it does stay running........
 
71valiant, sorry i didn't mean to abandon you. Got back to back phone calls from a few of my kids. I'll go back and get caught up:D
 
Well. Just took it for a drive. Runs good, BUT I have to labor it at stops, I have to blip the throttle a tad to keep her up. The idle in gear is like 500 rpm.
 
Vacuum reading looks good to me. especially with a relatively low compression number.
I know the dist. housing wouldn't let you advance anymore, but did you try that full vacuum port just to test if with the vacuum advance it liked more initial timing?
 
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