have a listen

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Vacuum reading looks good to me. especially with a relatively low compression number.
I know the dist. housing wouldn't let you advance anymore, but did you try that full vacuum port just to test if with the vacuum advance it liked more initial timing?

Yeah. It was the same at idle. You think I should try it and drive?
 
Nope. When I moved it from the metering plate to the base I really didnt notice a difference.

Maybe a sign that the vac adv can is bad or the advance plate in the dizzy is stuck of frozen up? With that said that wouldn't affect your idling issues, would be more of a drivability thing. I was just hoping to pull some more timing in to see if it liked it.
Does it look like a stock dist. that just had a Pertronix conversion done to it? Wondering how many miles might be on it.
 
Maybe a sign that the vac adv can is bad or the advance plate in the dizzy is stuck of frozen up? With that said that wouldn't affect your idling issues, would be more of a drivability thing. I was just hoping to pull some more timing in to see if it liked it.
Does it look like a stock dist. that just had a Pertronix conversion done to it? Wondering how many miles might be on it.

I honestly couldn't tell you the difference. I'm use to seeing an MSD pro billet or just a coil pack. Lol
 
Since it runs OK, then changes after you rev it, I would suspect something sticking in the distributor, like the weights and/or the vacuum plate. Isn't hard to take it apart and check for free motion.
 
I'm cheap and hate to spend money, even other peoples:D. But, if you have a shop available local with a distributor machine you may want to pull it and let them run it and check for proper operation. They could also set up a timing curve for you that's suitable for your setup. As 805kid said earlier i'm sure with fairly low compression it's gonna want plenty of initial timing. Probably enough that the total would have to be limited.
From what i've seen so far i believe your carb is ok. This may be just a accumulation of a few minor things......Maybe valves not sealing 100%, timing chain has a little slack, dizzy not perfect.....ect.
Maybe you'll get a little more member input for something i'm not seeing. I'll be watching.
 
I'm cheap and hate to spend money, even other peoples:D. But, if you have a shop available local with a distributor machine you may want to pull it and let them run it and check for proper operation. They could also set up a timing curve for you that's suitable for your setup. As 805kid said earlier i'm sure with fairly low compression it's gonna want plenty of initial timing. Probably enough that the total would have to be limited.
From what i've seen so far i believe your carb is ok. This may be just a accumulation of a few minor things......Maybe valves not sealing 100%, timing chain has a little slack, dizzy not perfect.....ect.
Maybe you'll get a little more member input for something i'm not seeing. I'll be watching.

Now that I can actually drive it, I'll be able to get a better sense of whats going on. I'll keep this thread going when I find something. I may take the dist off and see whats up there.
 
Now that I can actually drive it, I'll be able to get a better sense of whats going on. I'll keep this thread going when I find something. I may take the dist off and see whats up there.

as said find a guy with a dizzy machine... tell him you want like 15 in the dizzy and 30 total, all in by 2000 rpm... i never play with vac advance so your on your own there...
 
There are two set screws for timing on a slant. One on top where you can see it, and one underneath where you cannot. Sounds to me like as you advanced the timing it got better and better until you could not put anymore timing in it. I believe someone may heve stabbed the distributor in wrong. Loosen the second screw underneath and put more timing in it and see if it continuse to improve.
 
There are two set screws for timing on a slant. One on top where you can see it, and one underneath where you cannot. Sounds to me like as you advanced the timing it got better and better until you could not put anymore timing in it. I believe someone may heve stabbed the distributor in wrong. Loosen the second screw underneath and put more timing in it and see if it continuse to improve.

i wasn't gonna go there as you said why...

but...

loosen the easy to get to adjuster and set it in the middle and lock it down...

now get a 7/16 open end and climb under the passenger side tire... its hard to see but on the under side of the dizzy near the oil pump there is a bolt like the one on top... loosen it just enough so you can turn the dizzy...

now go up top and reset timing for what you want (wouldn't doubt it will take all of 30 at idle) but take it to 15 or 20* and shut off the engine. new tighten that bolt underneath the dizzy... now you have adjustment in the range you want...

it is VERY critical you have that thing curved immediately... you will shatter your top rings...
 
i wasn't gonna go there as you said why...

but...

loosen the easy to get to adjuster and set it in the middle and lock it down...

now get a 7/16 open end and climb under the passenger side tire... its hard to see but on the under side of the dizzy near the oil pump there is a bolt like the one on top... loosen it just enough so you can turn the dizzy...

now go up top and reset timing for what you want (wouldn't doubt it will take all of 30 at idle) but take it to 15 or 20* and shut off the engine. new tighten that bolt underneath the dizzy... now you have adjustment in the range you want...

it is VERY critical you have that thing curved immediately... you will shatter your top rings...

When I turn it to "the middle" where should/would the timing be on the tab? I haven't done this yet, but I may just to see if it'll run better.
 
When I turn it to "the middle" where should/would the timing be on the tab? I haven't done this yet, but I may just to see if it'll run better.

dosn't matter... your just putting the adjusting slot you can see in the middle so you can adjust either way...

then adjust the one under neither for say 20 initial timing... then lock it down... now you can do back to using the normal means of adjustment...
 
dosn't matter... your just putting the adjusting slot you can see in the middle so you can adjust either way...

then adjust the one under neither for say 20 initial timing... then lock it down... now you can do back to using the normal means of adjustment...

Ah. I gotcha!
 
i wasn't gonna go there as you said why...

but...

loosen the easy to get to adjuster and set it in the middle and lock it down...

now get a 7/16 open end and climb under the passenger side tire... its hard to see but on the under side of the dizzy near the oil pump there is a bolt like the one on top... loosen it just enough so you can turn the dizzy...

now go up top and reset timing for what you want (wouldn't doubt it will take all of 30 at idle) but take it to 15 or 20* and shut off the engine. new tighten that bolt underneath the dizzy... now you have adjustment in the range you want...

it is VERY critical you have that thing curved immediately... you will shatter your top rings...

Holy ****. Please tell me theres an easy way to get to this bolt. I totally cannot get to it.

above...
 
Yeah. cant get to it. I ultimately had to take the oil filter off. I just loosened the bolt. Gotta throw the filter on. Time it. take off filter..... tighten bolt...... put back on filter. What a blast. Lol
 
Ok. Turned it up a little. Idles a little better in gear. I would think a little more would solve the problem.
 
Yeah. cant get to it. I ultimately had to take the oil filter off. I just loosened the bolt. Gotta throw the filter on. Time it. take off filter..... tighten bolt...... put back on filter. What a blast. Lol

well thats about the only other way besides what i said or pulling the dizzy...
 
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