Glue Man
Well-Known Member
Hey guys Im having a heck of a time trying to find head bolts and exhaust manifold studs for my 225. Can someone point me in the right direction? Thanks in advance.
Head Bolts and Exhaust Manifold Studs
- Thread starter Glue Man
- Start date
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Sedanman
67-9 Valiant specialist
I think the studs are the same as carb studs. They have 2 different threads on them,a coarse into the block and a fine to secure the int/exh manifolds.
Glue Man
Well-Known Member
That is correct on the 2 different types of threads. Thanks for your help.
I have the head bolts for when I removed the head. It was always my understanding that head bolts were not reusable due to them stretching when they were torqued down. Is this not correct?
Sedanman
67-9 Valiant specialist
I reuse them and never had an issue. The modern mopar manuals say to not reuse them but they use inferior bolts nowdays compared to the old stuff. I have some spare washers and etc from a /6 I tossed let me know if you need anything. I don't know why the used 2 different threads on 1 bolt and I don't see why you can't just use a coarse bolt and be done with it. I'd check bolt depth in the head and figure out what length you need from there if you choose that route.
Glue Man
Well-Known Member
Thats pretty much what I was thinking also. I called a local machine shop and he said I could reuse the head bolts. I am going to try your carb bolts and see if that works.
Thanks for all of the help. I found a 68 Valiant 4 door that I was going to part out, but its too clean to do so. Bad part is it's been sitting since 96 so the valves were stuck. I think i'm through the worst of the issues and it should be running by the weekend.
Again, thanks for the help.
Sedanman
67-9 Valiant specialist
You bought that car from CL? Another member ACPat was looking at it too and he's in your next of the woods with a 68 Valiant.
Silver Seal has the exhaust manifold studs
the head bolts and exhaust/intake bolts can be reused on the older engines. all of the newer ones use a torque to yield bolt. which means you torque them down back them off the retorque them then turn them an additional 90-180 degrees.
Dartswinger70
Well-Known Member
Try this. I would suggest ARP bolts. You can also look on Jegs, Summit, or get the ARP Part # and shop around.
http://headbolts.com/Chryler-dodge-plymouth-225-slant-six-bolts
http://headbolts.com/Chryler-dodge-plymouth-225-slant-six-bolts
Charrlie_S
Well-Known Member
On a stock engine, it is not neccessary to spend that kind of money on special head bolts. I use stock head bolts on most of my race slants.
Dartswinger70
Well-Known Member
Its not a lot of money if the guy has a head to bolt on an engine and no head bolts. Is there a source for stock head bolts? I built a 318 that was missing a head bolt or two, I bought ARP bolts. If the OP has the head bolts, I agree, reuse them, but that may not be the case. Cost is relative, what may be a lot of $$ to some nay not be to all and when moving a project along the more you spend the faster the progress is.
We are currently working on one ourselves - good timing....
Go to Ace hardware (or comparable hardware store) and look in the fastener aisle for a drawer marked "Automotive Studs" (make sure it's the SAE/English one not METRIC).
You want to get the 5/16" x 2" long stud, it will be slightly longer than the original.
The 5/16" x 1 1/2" long will be slightly shorter than the original.
They ask about $2.25 for each one. There are 13 studs total for the manifolds. You may have to go to 3-4 stores to find enough to do them all, as they usually don't have but 4-6 in most stores...
I have held them at the bottom of the shoulder to see how long they will be after installed:
The two compared side by side:
View attachment DSC01553 B.jpg
Here's the 1 1/2" one:
View attachment DSC01559 B.jpg
Here's the 1 1/2" long stud and how it compares to the stock stud.
View attachment DSC01551 B.jpg
Here's the 2" one:
View attachment DSC01557 B.jpg
Here's the 2" long stud and how it compares to the stock stud.
View attachment DSC01550 B.jpg
Go to Ace hardware (or comparable hardware store) and look in the fastener aisle for a drawer marked "Automotive Studs" (make sure it's the SAE/English one not METRIC).
You want to get the 5/16" x 2" long stud, it will be slightly longer than the original.
The 5/16" x 1 1/2" long will be slightly shorter than the original.
They ask about $2.25 for each one. There are 13 studs total for the manifolds. You may have to go to 3-4 stores to find enough to do them all, as they usually don't have but 4-6 in most stores...
I have held them at the bottom of the shoulder to see how long they will be after installed:
The two compared side by side:
View attachment DSC01553 B.jpg
Here's the 1 1/2" one:
View attachment DSC01559 B.jpg
Here's the 1 1/2" long stud and how it compares to the stock stud.
View attachment DSC01551 B.jpg
Here's the 2" one:
View attachment DSC01557 B.jpg
Here's the 2" long stud and how it compares to the stock stud.
View attachment DSC01550 B.jpg
Glue Man
Well-Known Member
This worked perfectly. Thanks for your help.
Glue Man
Well-Known Member
These were taken when it was still light outside. I was able to get it buttoned up and started late last night. The longer studs made it tough to get those triangle shaped washers in between the manifold tubes, but with a little patience it worked out.
I'll take a couple more tonight.
I'll take a couple more tonight.
We used one of those small magnets on the extension (Like a radio antenna) and walked them on with the magnet and a screwdriver to hold it on the stud as we took the magnet away.... One at a time.... Very carefully.... :banghead: :banghead: :banghead:
It worked ok, but it was a little tricky to keep the triangle at the proper angle as if it was too much, you couldn't rotate it back to the center position on the stud. You had to keep that lined up with the magnet and screwdriver... And it wanted to hang from the screwdriver at the wrong angle sometimes.... :banghead: :banghead: :banghead:
We went slow, one at a time and worked through it...
But we're feeling much better now.... :color:
I like the green on your car... I had a 69 Valiant in that color back in the 90's... :thumblef:
BillGrissom
Well-Known Member
Before you bolt up the manifolds, read the article on www.slantsix.org. The triangle and round washers install opposite what intuition suggests. If you don't do that, the manifolds can later crack. Coat the center long bolt w/ anti-seize or it will probably break when you try to remove it someday. Snug those 3 bolts and the manifold bolts progressively, so everything aligns correctly.
Re "torque to yield" head bolts. My 1996 2.4L has those, but I re-used them when I replaced the head gasket at 100K (leaked oil, common problem, changed to MLS). I figured I would just yield them a little more. No problems, now at 210K miles. Slant bolts have always been re-usable.
Re parts, the slant was made until ~1983 so parts are available. Indeed, I saw a catalog recently listing new heads. But, later engines (~1976) changed to the "peanut head" (no spark tubes) and later to hydraulic lifters. But no need to pay big money for new parts when you can get a whole engine & tranny free, since most got to switch to a V-8.
Re "torque to yield" head bolts. My 1996 2.4L has those, but I re-used them when I replaced the head gasket at 100K (leaked oil, common problem, changed to MLS). I figured I would just yield them a little more. No problems, now at 210K miles. Slant bolts have always been re-usable.
Re parts, the slant was made until ~1983 so parts are available. Indeed, I saw a catalog recently listing new heads. But, later engines (~1976) changed to the "peanut head" (no spark tubes) and later to hydraulic lifters. But no need to pay big money for new parts when you can get a whole engine & tranny free, since most got to switch to a V-8.
Glue Man
Well-Known Member
I do too. When I took the spare tire out of the trunk the rim appeared to have never been on the ground and the rims paint is almost perfect. The color is great. The polyglass tire appears to have never been on the ground either. It still has the little nubs on the rubber. Pretty crazy for a car this old.
No, torque to yield bolts came into being in the late '70's, and prominence in the '80's, due
mainly to the use of aluminum cyl. heads. The increased expansion of aluminum would
eventually crush the head gaskets to the point they wouldn't be able to recover & hold
a seal. The fix(now combined w/MLS gaskets), was to use longer bolts that were torqued
'til they were floating between elastic & plastic deformation, thus not increasing the load
on the gasket as much w/the high amt. of expansion. The bolts on your slanty can be
used to infinity really, unless they have been damaged,corroded,or over-torqued by an
appreciable amount.
nm9stheham
Well-Known Member
Makes sense... but not all head gaskets get crushed by non-TTY head bolts. All the Mitsu 1.6 and 2.6L engines I built re-used the original bolts, which were not TTY types (as far as I know; they never stretched), and I then went to ARP's on the 2.6 turbo engines with no gasket problems. I suspect the reason to go to TTY was to get more consistent clamping pressure with the bolt yielding at a consistent point on the curve, rather than depending on a thread resistance caused torque giving consistent clamping.
All head bolts will stretch slightly when torqued. It's very little and can't be seen by the eye. You need to have the bolts ground flat on each end with centers drilled, then use micrometers to measure the bolts before torquing, then remove them after torquing and measure them again to tell how much they stretched.
It's not easily done at home in our garages...
But they do stretch a few thousandths of an inch on average each time you torque them...
Yes, all stressed fasteners stretch, they are " linear springs", very stiff ones. But good
luck checking the stretch on a head or main bolt/stud accurately, lol. All rod bolts where
the spec is given get torqued that way when I build an engine, the rest depend on good
preparation of the threads and fasteners, and an accurate torque wrench/procedure.
Yes, there are a number of aluminum headed engines that seem fine w/o TTY style bolts.
The upshot for Glueman is.... clean the block threads, run your headbolts on the wire
wheel, and proceed ............ :coffee2:
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