head gasket

[72ScampTramp]

well I made it to the gasket. I didnt expect it to jump out and say hey its bad here but I really dont see an a problem with the gasket. No burnt spots, or breaks to the bore, no separation of the gasket. I will have this head checked again to make sure....

 

[RustyRatRod]

Hay Buckwheat, do me a favor. Flip the head gasket over and take a good pic of the other side of the area circled.

 

[72ScampTramp]

here go

 

[TrailBeast]

Hay Buckwheat, do me a favor. Flip the head gasket over and take a good pic of the other side of the area circled.

I thought that looked highly suspicious too.
Bet thats where the water came from.

Looks like the bolt bottomed out on some crap in the threads maybe?

 

[TrailBeast]

Trailbeast im sure im wrong on this but I was under the impression the intakes werent an issue on BBs. Since that is first i suppose i could check that first.

Sorry, I didn't know that about BB's ops:

 

[RustyRatRod]

It doesn't even look like the gasket embosses are crushed. I think either too long a bolt was used in that area or some doo doo was under the bolt.

 

[Bad Sport]

It doesn't even look like the gasket embosses are crushed. I think either too long a bolt was used in that area or some doo doo was under the bolt.

That's why I was wondering if the holes were chased. Not enough clamping force.

 

[69 Cuda 440]

What Cylinder Heads are on that engine.

Usually the Mopar Big Block Heads don't have an issue with cracking, and
we've Pressure Tested many on our AXE Cylinder Head Pressure Tester.

Big Block Mopars do have a small problem with Head Bolts, after lengthy periods
of time in use they do stretch and/or the threads corrode.

Just chasing the threads won't do the trick alone. You may have to 'bite-the-bullet' and
purchase new Cylinder Head Bolts.

And both the Cylinder Head and Block Deck should be re-checked with a Straight-Edge
to make sure of no abnormal warpage.

Important;

If the Cylinder Heads were ported, you should at least have the one on the 'problematic side'
'Pressure Tested' not Magna-Fluxed for cracks.

 

[RustyRatRod]

What Cylinder Heads are on that engine.

Usually the Mopar Big Block Heads don't have an issue with cracking, and
we've Pressure Tested many on our AXE Cylinder Head Pressure Tester.

Big Block Mopars do have a small problem with Head Bolts, after lengthy periods
of time in use they do stretch and/or the threads corrode some.

Just chasing the threads won't do the trick. You may have to 'bite-the-bullet' and
purchase new Cylinder Head Bolts.

And both the Cylinder Head and Block Deck should be re-checked with a Straight-Edge
to make sure of no abnormal warpage.

Important;

If the Cylinder Heads were ported, you should at least have the one on the 'problematic side'
'Pressure Tested' not Magna-Fluxed for cracks.

All stellar advice, sir. I concur 100%.

 

[Idaho]

subscribed

 

[69 Cuda 440]

Thank You For The Compliments........

ARP Cylinder Head Bolt Kit

ARP 145-3606............$80.00

Great for Stock Cylinder Heads, Standard Hex-Head Bolts w/Washers

Really a 'must' for Street Performance Rebuilds with the 440 RB.

 

[moper]

The block's head bolt holes have to be tapped prior to the final washing. Especially if the block was decked and the heads milled. I like to make sure the bolts will snug to the heads with no gasket in place. Because if they bottom out in the hole without compressing the gasket you get what you have.. ugliness. If you didn't do this, then yes - you need to pull the other head too... Use a bottoming tap, clean and blow out the holes, and either replace the bolts or verify they are not bottoming out.

 

[SGBARRACUDA]

Trailbeast more than likely thought you were working on a SB. Hell I did too until I clicked on your build thread.

 

[Dubob]

Also looks like combustion gasses bypassing on post 26 second picture towards the headbolt.

 

[69 Cuda 440]

Another possible solution,

In 'High Performance' 440 applications, we use the ARP Cylinder Head
'Stud' Bolts for the center '5' units to fasten the Cylinder Head to the Block.

ARP #145-4066 {We just order '10' of the Long Studs}, and use the Standard
Hex-Head Cylinder Bolts for the Top and Bottom units.

The center 'between bore' sections of the Cylinder is the weak link in blow-by
and water seepage into the Cylinder.

 

[nitrojunkee]

The block's head bolt holes have to be tapped prior to the final washing. Especially if the block was decked and the heads milled. I like to make sure the bolts will snug to the heads with no gasket in place. Because if they bottom out in the hole without compressing the gasket you get what you have.. ugliness. If you didn't do this, then yes - you need to pull the other head too... Use a bottoming tap, clean and blow out the holes, and either replace the bolts or verify they are not bottoming out.

Do some people really not chase ALL the holes on a block before final cleaning, and assembly? It may take some time, but I don't see why you wouldn't do it.

 

[RustyRatRod]

Do some people really not chase ALL the holes on a block before final cleaning, and assembly? It may take some time, but I don't see why you wouldn't do it.

Yes, I have always considered a part of final assembly. Even if the machine shop does it, there's always a possibility of something getting into a hole from there to assembly. Leave no stone unturned, as they say.

 

[69 Cuda 440]

I think some guys just think, that if the Head Bolt came out OK, then it will go in just the same.

Or never take the Cylinder Head Bolts over to the Grinder/Wire Wheel Brush for cleaning.

And just like the guys who clean an Intake Manifold, and never pull off the Oil-Splash Plate.

Just something that they will learn over time, and gain experience.

 

[RustyRatRod]

Another great idea. Would you say it's a good idea for most any HP V8? It would seem like it.

Another possible solution,

In 'High Performance' 440 applications, we use the ARP Cylinder Head
'Stud' Bolts for the center '5' units to fasten the Cylinder Head to the Block.

ARP #145-4011 {We just order '10' of the Long Studs}, and use the regular Hex-Head Cylinder
Bolts for the Top and Bottom units.

The center 'between bore' sections of the Cylinder is the weak link in blow-by
and water seepage into the Cylinder.

 

[69 Cuda 440]

Rod,

The ARP Stud Kit is pricey, {$100 more than a Standard Head Bolt Kit}, and some guys
just don't want to go for the 'Full Boat'.

So we recommend the 'Studs' for the center '5' Head Bolts on most Street Performance
383 thru 440 Mopar Big Block Engines.

On Street Applications, the 'Stud Kit' is really not necessary for the Top Row and
Bottom Row Head Bolts.

It saves a 'few dollars'.

That is what we recommend for Big Block Mopars.
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

ARP Pricing

ARP #145-3606 {Cylinder Head Standard Bolt Kit}.............$80
ARP #145-4066 {Cylinder Head Stud Bolt Kit}..................$185

 

[72ScampTramp]

I reused the stock bolts. I did clean them up and they were lubed before torquing. I did also blow out the bolt holes. Which appears that wasnt the right way to do things. Ill get the new gaskets and look into bolts.

 

[RustyRatRod]

Keep your chin up, Josh. You will get it.

 

[TrailBeast]

Trailbeast more than likely thought you were working on a SB. Hell I did too until I clicked on your build thread.

Thanks for trying to cover for me Roy, but alas it was pure ignorance.

I really didn't know big blocks didn't have coolant passages in the intake.
One would think that after all the pictures of big block intakes I have seen on here I would have noticed.

 

[RustyRatRod]

Thanks for trying to cover for me Roy, but alas it was pure ignorance.

I really didn't know big blocks didn't have coolant passages in the intake.
One would think that after all the pictures of big block intakes I have seen on here I would have noticed.

Not many domestic engines are like that. They are somewhat unconventional.

 

[sr71mopar]

Clevelands are the only other engine I can think of with a dry intake.