head gasket

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I don't go by Horsepower Gain or Loss.

I go by % Gain or Loss.

Usually the 'standard rule' is a 4% Power Gain by increasing Compression
by 1.0 in an Engine with an approximate 9.5-1 Compression-Ratio.

A .50 {half-point} loss in Compression, will probably effect Horsepower by
3% {at maximum}.

 
Lots of good info in this thread. I never paid much attention to coating being on the gaskets already! :banghead:
 
That's probably the best way to do it, since all engines don't produce the same power.

I don't go by Horsepower Gain or Loss.

I go by % Gain or Loss.

Usually the 'standard rule' is a 4% Power Gain by increasing Compression
by 1.0 in an Engine with an approximate 9.5-1 Compression-Ratio.

A .50 {half-point} loss in Compression, will probably effect Horsepower by
3% {at maximum}.
 
I don't go by Horsepower Gain or Loss.

I go by % Gain or Loss.

Usually the 'standard rule' is a 4% Power Gain by increasing Compression
by 1.0 in an Engine with an approximate 9.5-1 Compression-Ratio.

A .50 {half-point} loss in Compression, will probably effect Horsepower by
3% {at maximum}.


This is basically how I calculated this in an earlier post. After doing some research. My percentage was based on my peak power assumption. Thanks though fellas. And Rob your ok bud give it to me straight that works too.
 
One last thing - don't soak the bolts... You need a little squirt on the threads, and a little under the bolt head. If you soak them the oil will run down and get onto the gasket surfaces, and can potentially fill the bolt hole before you get it in and give you a false reading when you torque it. You don't want a ton of oil - you want a thin coating. I don't even "dunk" the threads - I use an old squirting type oil can.
On the power issue - ignore it. You won't notice or miss it regardless of what "it" might be.
 
Ive settled on the the perma torque gaskets. Do I coat these or put them on dry? These http://www.summitracing.com/parts/fel-8519pt1/overview/

Fel-Pro 'Perma-Torque' gaskets do not require a 'sealant' to be applied to the gasket.


Read the 'Fel-Pro' web site on 'pre-application' for Head Gaskets. They do 'not'
recommend any sealer to be applied to their Perma-Torque Gaskets.

Just that the Cylinder Head and Block Deck surface are clean, and free of oil.

A couple of spray shots of 'Brake-Kleen' will remove any surface oil.

 
Right. The composition gaskets go on dry and clean. They also do not require a retorque.
 
Josh,you busted your butt on this one. Nice work.

Yes he has.....and I don't mean to come of harsh on him either. Fact is, he's never done any of the stuff before that he's done to his car. He built his own engine. He built his own transmission. He did all his own panel replacement. And on and on and on. Gotta be one of the best builds on the site hands down.
 
Fel-Pro 'Perma-Torque' gaskets do not require a 'sealant' to be applied to the gasket.


Read the 'Fel-Pro' web site on 'pre-application' for Head Gaskets. They do 'not'
recommend any sealer to be applied to their Perma-Torque Gaskets.

Just that the Cylinder Head and Block Deck surface are clean, and free of oil.

A couple of spray shots of 'Brake-Kleen' will remove any surface oil.

I used these gaskets on my 318. They have yet to give me a problem after maybe 6,000 miles of daily driving with the occasional WOT. I made sure my deck surface was nice and clean with some brake cleaner and ran em.
 
Everything wsa fluxed when it was built just a few months ago. The head was taken back and pressure tested just to rule out issues there. New bolts and gasket next.
 
Unless you have the block and heads resurfaced properly with a polished finish you should use copper coat on your metal gaskets if used. On a motor that has a standard finish surface it is best to use composite gaskets. My small block with a smooth finish and cometic tri-metal gaskets with copper coat also seeped until I got a good amount of heat in the motor and re-torqued them.

I never had this problem with Mr. gasket metal. but they are softer and squash more. But they do not withstand as much boost as cometic. We are now trying cometic with a wire insert in the head on a street motor. Same as the top fuel motor. Do not be afraid to use some sealant on metal gaskets. Moroso block seal is also needed on some applications

Looks to me by the pics as if your block was not prepped for metal gaskets. I would go to a good fe-lpro composite set on both sides . This would be the best and cheapest for you to correct the problem. If it was just coolant I would say block seal using your gaskets. But as stated you can see carbon from a combustion leak also.

Hope this info helps in sealing this up. Steve
 
For the head bolts. Whats an appropriate way to oil them? Will WD 40 work for torquing them down? Last time I soaked them in 30w which I guess wasnt the right method.
 
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