Header build kits

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Lead_Foot

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Good afternoon everyone,

I am trying to find long tube headers for my stroker SBM build. It's not going in the normal A /B / E -body platforms, which is what all of the off-the shelf headers are built for. I already contacted TTI, Hookers and they have nothing available for my combination.

I am trying to find a good 1-7/8" or 1-3/8" Header kit with either 3" or 3.5" collectors. Best I've found so far is this stainless kits $881. Summit only has Sprinter styles, Looking for regular style not fender headers either.

Header Builder Kits Stainless Steel

Heads are the TFS 190cc, for flange reference.

Thanks for any links.
 
All things considered, that is a good price for stainless. How does that compare to a mild steel kit? My direction would be mild steel and spend the extra money on thermal coatings.
 
All things considered, that is a good price for stainless. How does that compare to a mild steel kit? My direction would be mild steel and spend the extra money on thermal coatings.
I haven't been able to find a mild steel kit like this. Most kits are sprinter/zoomie styles. I did find a place that sells U and J bend mild steel for $17 each 16 guage steel. Then i would need flanges...probably $150<$200, collectors flanges. Could do a 1-3/8" to 1-7/8" stepped header or a Tri-Y. I would probably have to get 12, which still isn't bad.

https://southwestspeed.com/collections/u-bends-16-gauge

I was thinking about getting a set of 1_3/8 or 1-7/8" Big block header and bending them into the shape I want?
 
The thing about bending tube's is they collapse unless they are a mandrel tube bender. The mandrel also called a follower I believe, fits inside the tube and keeps ir from collapsing. The tubing bends you pictured are mandrel bent. Bending a set of headers would make it look like exhausted tube bent in a muffler shop.

I'd keep looking for a kit and cut and weld up a pair.
 

The thing about bending tube's is they collapse unless they are a mandrel tube bender. The mandrel also called a follower I believe, fits inside the tube and keeps ir from collapsing. The tubing bends you pictured are mandrel bent. Bending a set of headers would make it look like exhausted tube bent in a muffler shop.

I'd keep looking for a kit and cut and weld up a pair.
Yeah, I meant to say minor "tweaking". I've used hydraulic exhaust benders before. You start to feel/ know where the limit is before it starts crush the tube.

I think I could cut the bid block flanges off and maneuver/ coerce them into lining up to the LA Flange.
 
Don't be afraid to just buy the parts you need. A box of J bends or U bends in the size and material you want will usually have enought material for one pair of headers, unless you have a really wild setup with a lot of extra bends. Just buy the flanges you want, the collectors you want, and a box or selection of the bends and go to town in it.

I have used a box of bends from Headman ordered through Summit, but there are many sources out there for specialty parts too. I think the last set of mild steel flanges I bought was from SPD and they were very nice parts. Exhaust Components - SPD Home Page B
 
Schoenfeld sells a box of excess bends from their builds in all sizes. Something like 30+ feet
 
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With St St the welding needs gas covering the inside. If you're set up for it, cool.

Ed is very opinionated but my experience with his headers is what he does was done well. Just try to avoid getting into a discussion with him unless you have time on your hands.
The flanges are like factory exhaust manifolds - ground flat and used with thin hard gasket. Might even get away with no gasket like the factory.
Know that there is variation in port to bolt relationships in the heads. So one must accept some bolt hole play or slightly oversize port.


You might want to look for posts by Calvin Elston "exhausted" on "Speed Talk forum" for tips on building headers.
 
Know that there is variation in port to bolt relationships in the heads. So one must accept some bolt hole play or slightly oversize port.
This is a bit less of an issue if you work from a head and cut the flange like Ed would do when he was building headers.
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Those were 'Jet Hot" coated. If I were to do it again I'd use Swaintech for coating.
 
Headers by Ed used to sell kits and were nice but high dollar. As someone stated, phone calls could get long and complicated.
 
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