We learn something every day. Previous owner had installed a B&M floor shifter and hooker headers. I dont know how adjustable these cables are but I'm about to find out. The cable was left very long and actually came about an inch or two away from the exhaust so after my third outing with this car since getting it tagged the plastic sheath melted and it's now stuck somewhere between park and reverse. I'm going to have to hunt down a shorter cable or find a better way to route a new one or wrap the exhaust!
Header melted the shift cable.
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the ones the shifters come with out of the box are almost always way too long. order a shorter one from Holley (B&M) and wire tie it away from any exhaust with heavy duty wire ties, or even insulated clamps. If it tends to contact the floor, or another Rubbing area, you can wrap it with rubber hose.
little tips i learned over the years.
little tips i learned over the years.
TrailBeast
AKA Mopars4us on Youtube
I went through this with my Hurst Promatic 2 ratchet shifter and got stuck on an incline.
When I went to drive away the center of the cable came right out through the cable sheathing so I couldn't even get the thing out of park.
I had to reach under the car with my jack handle and knock the thing into drive to get it home.
Hurst only has ONE cable besides a generic "fits all" and it's 5 feet long.
After some digging I found that B&M makes a 36 inch cable that the only difference was a larger eyelet on the shifter end. (Probably go right on your B&M)
It's called their "Heavy Duty Race Cable" and after making a spacer it fit my shifter perfectly and no troubles since.
The 36 inch B&M cable makes almost a perfect half circle from the shifter to the linkage and doesn't go past the bellhousing in the course of it's loop.
The new cable is a lot more positive in feel as well.
This one.
B&M 80831 B&M Shifter Cable, Race-Super Duty 3 Feet
No way would I ever wrap headers. Well.....I would if I wanted them to rust quick. lol
wrap the cable in insulation
Thanks for the help guys. Since I'd rather spend the money on a new fuel sender and whatever will keep this car running cooler I'm going to hook up the old column shifter linkage. Luckily it was in a bag of spare parts that came with the car!
451Cuda
Well-Known Member
I switched to a rear exit cable on my B&M Pro Stick.
I put some heater hose (maybe it was fuel line) over my shifter cable. It was easy and seems to work as long as you are a little way from the exhaust.
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Frank Mopar
Well-Known Member
Run the cable out the passenger side then in front between the oil pan and trans. I have two cars that way and no problem melting the cable. Ill get some pics but It wont be until Monday.
I just made a couple wire loops and one I would bolt on the back of the head the other I would bolt lower off the trans some where and ran the cable through them and kept the cable away from the header.
pishta
I know I'm right....
Im a member of that club too, but mine just stuck to the header, didnt damage the cable. My timing light cord met the same fate...better than catching it in the fan.
Well I actually lost a cable the same way, The second one got the custom loop treatment. Been good ever sense.
You are all pretty close. But there is a very easy way and method to prevent the melting of the cable with the correct routing. One holder plus a product to put on the cable.
Tools used were w 3/8 drill bit and a Crows foot. It can be seen on some of the many pictures of my Duster posted .
I have seen the inner cable push through just from radiant heat on cars that come here . It doesn't have to touch the header. I never had anyone return after we install the shift cable with any cubic inch motor . My car had 2 inch tube headers and space was very tight in there. There are some pretty smart members that know the correct method on everything. I am sure they will chime in now that they saw my input. Good luck. LOL
Tools used were w 3/8 drill bit and a Crows foot. It can be seen on some of the many pictures of my Duster posted .
I have seen the inner cable push through just from radiant heat on cars that come here . It doesn't have to touch the header. I never had anyone return after we install the shift cable with any cubic inch motor . My car had 2 inch tube headers and space was very tight in there. There are some pretty smart members that know the correct method on everything. I am sure they will chime in now that they saw my input. Good luck. LOL
Well that was worthless !
What if all the gears dont line up ?
Ie...park is perfect but 1st is a little off ...
What if all the gears dont line up ?
Ie...park is perfect but 1st is a little off ...
If you are going to wrap it with heater hose, I would recommend using silicone heater hose... It's more expensive than the standard heater hose, but can withstand 50° more temperature... Then put a heat sleeve around it, because even silicone hose cannot withstand the full heat of a header...
Aluminum foil is also a good way to protect it from heat... Put some aluminum foil on the outside of the hose and/or heat sleeve as an extra barrier......
Frank Mopar
Well-Known Member
Here are the pics of my cable coming from the right side
Aircraft adel clamps are my go to.
TrailBeast
AKA Mopars4us on Youtube
I considered the loop, but just couldn't live with all that pointless extra cable running under and around when it didn't have to be that way.
The 36 inch "Heavy Duty" cable solved both, plus it made the shifting way more positive because of way less deflection from the weaker & longer original cable.
I have the old shift linkage hooked back up now but the transmission still has what I believe is the B&M control lever so when connected to the column the travel of the indicator isn't long enought to line up with PRND12 and now I'm finding there are several control levers out there in various shapes and lengths!
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