Header question

[dartfreak75]

I was looking at my headers today trying to be prepared for Installing the engine and all that. I know the center link goes thru them but it looks to me like the torsion bar is gonna have to go thru them too. Has anyone used this style does the torsion bar go thru them? You can see in the 2nd picture that it's all the way up against the torsion bar. And it doesnt look like its can fit on the other side if the torsion bar pictures will be awesome if you have any of this style headers

 

[Garrett Ellison]

Clearance to the torsion bar with this type of header is pretty tight on the left hand side, but it does fit. It's around an inch or less with the engine installed.

 

[dartfreak75]

Clearance to the torsion bar with this type of header is pretty tight on the left hand side, but it does fit. It's around an inch or less with the engine installed.

So the torsion bar doenst go through the two pipes?

 

[Bodyperson]

If you are going to use those headers, do yourself a favor and weld a skid plate to the obvious ground interference area.

 

[rumblefish360]

No, not at all. Those are the decades old standard 1 size fits all cars header for the SBM.

(Hate them!)

 

[Bodyperson]

So the torsion bar doenst go through the two pipes?

No

 

[dartfreak75]

No, not at all. Those are the decades old standard 1 size fits all cars header for the SBM.

(Hate them!)

Yep they are ancient I bought them over on the cudachallenger forum from this great guy named Tony he was a super good guy. He basically gave them to me and I paid the shipping on them that was back in 2003 probably

 

[RustyRatRod]

If I remember right, the torsion bars run just outside the headers, but they are CLOSE.

 

[rumblefish360]

Yep they are ancient I bought them over on the cudachallenger forum from this great guy named Tony he was a super good guy. He basically gave them to me and I paid the shipping on them that was back in 2003 probably

The only hint/help I can give from here is to raise the car up as high as possible, then figure out a way to raise it another foot.

Or put the driver side in before the engine.

 

[moparmandan]

So the torsion bar doenst go through the two pipes?

Not that I remember. But the less stuff in the way, the better. Steering column, torsion bar, starter.

 

[dartfreak75]

The only hint/help I can give from here is to raise the car up as high as possible, then figure out a way to raise it another foot.

Or put the driver side in before the engine.

Drivers side is going in before the engine. As soon as the bay gets painted I'm gonna roll the car to where I'm gonna put the engine in and take the drivers side tierods back off and slide the header in. I was just looking at it today and it seems like it's not gonna fit better the torsion bar lol

 

[Bodyperson]

Drivers side is going in before the engine. As soon as the bay gets painted I'm gonna roll the car to where I'm gonna put the engine in and take the drivers side tierods back off and slide the header in. I was just looking at it today and it seems like it's not gonna fit better the torsion bar lol

The header may hit the torsion bar.

 

[RustyRatRod]

I liked all the pairs I've had like that. Never had any trouble, because my cars always sat at least the stock ride height. Usually a little higher, because I like running a little taller tire.

 

[Garrett Ellison]

Also use a mini starter from the late LA/Magnum type engine. Changing the old type starter involves unbolting the header and pulling it halfway forward and out to drop the starter out.

 

[dartfreak75]

Also use a mini starter from the late LA/Magnum type engine. Changing the old type starter involves unbolting the header and pulling it halfway forward and out to drop the starter out.

Yep I already got one. I pulled it off my 01 ram parts truck lol

 

[Bodyperson]

I liked all the pairs I've had like that. Never had any trouble, because my cars always sat at least the stock ride height. Usually a little higher, because I like running a little taller tire.

Any HP test comparing them to tti or dougs? I think they work just fine if not better.

 

[RustyRatRod]

Any HP test comparing them to tti or dougs? I think they work just fine if not better.

I don't know of any, but they are long tube headers and we all know the benefits there.

 

[dartfreak75]

I'm gonna clean up the port area some before I install them to help the flow some. They are really rough around the edges with alot of weld splatter and there is alot of bead that goes into the port itself. I know they will flow better by just cleaning that up. Just like porting heads it's not necessary the size of the port but the flow. If you can catch a nail on it it will slow down the flow.

 

[B'cuda]

I don't know of any, but they are long tube headers and we all know the benefits there.

I think the TTI chassis header is a step header and flows almost as well as the Hedmans style.
I have had the same pair on 3 engines in two cars. The back two plugs are tricky to get at, requiring a deep socket turned with an open end wrench

 

[dartfreak75]

I think the TTI chassis header is a step header and flows almost as well as the Hedmans style.
I have had the same pair on 3 engines in two cars. The back two plugs are tricky to get at, requiring a deep socket turned with an open end wrench

I'm a little concerned about the plugs with these headers they look like they are gonna be super hard to get to.

 

[Garrett Ellison]

Use a plug with a 5/8 hex, it makes life a little easier. Hot compression checks with these headers can be somewhat “Difficult”.

 

[SLOPAR72]

I've run a few sets of these. It's those 3 tubes that just suck on the DS. Unless you are a driving god (lol) they will take a hit at one point. Past that I have to say they were OK to work with. The starter is the one thing that get's people in a Headlock. It's really not and even a bulky factory started can be changed out pretty quick once you learn the ropes.....

JW

 

[B'cuda]

I'm a little concerned about the plugs with these headers they look like they are gonna be super hard to get to.

Before TTI, that style headers was pretty much it, and you get used to it. Just like back when the only headers for big block A bodies were fenderwell dogs, and why so many A bodies have the inner fenders cut open.

 

[AJ/FormS]

Fifty years ago,they used to cost less than $99 bucks .... so you just installed new ones every winter.
Do yourself a favor and do not use slanty T-bars, and do use 340 bars or better, 1.03s are NOT too big. Plus HD shocks. If you use smaller bars, it helps to put the battery in the trunk.
Otherwise;
when traversing speed bumps, if your speed is wrong; POW!, yur fixing a pinched tube again.
And yeah, leave the front rideheight at stock. If you "need" attitude, get it in the back.The nice thing about TTI's and speed bumps is; you can hit 'em hard to get air, but you'll need some torque, or TM (TorqueMultiplication), or both,lol. I like smashing over them whenever I see a tuner-car crabbing over one. Yeah, I can be a dick; Hear my dual 3inchers roar!

 

[TrailBeast]

If I remember right, the torsion bars run just outside the headers, but they are CLOSE.

Yep, close enough that with 1.03 bars you might as well dent them for clearance now.
On my car that style of header caused a buzz on deceleration from touching the torsion bar.

The only hint/help I can give from here is to raise the car up as high as possible, then figure out a way to raise it another foot.

Or put the driver side in before the engine.

Yep, instructions for that type says raise the car 36 inches and install from underneath.
Also got to take the oil filter off, and even possibly tilt the motor to the drivers side.

I'm a little concerned about the plugs with these headers they look like they are gonna be super hard to get to.

The back two plugs (5&7) it works best to put the plug socket on the plug first and the extension on the socket after.
Gotta reach under the high back tube to put the socket on and get the plugs back in.
Also, do yourself a favor and use Remflex gaskets the first time.

Fifty years ago,they used to cost less than $99 bucks .... so you just installed new ones every winter.
Do yourself a favor and do not use slanty T-bars, and do use 340 bars or better, 1.03s are NOT too big. Plus HD shocks. If you use smaller bars, it helps to put the battery in the trunk.
Otherwise;
when traversing speed bumps, if your speed is wrong; POW!, yur fixing a pinched tube again.
And yeah, leave the front rideheight at stock. If you "need" attitude, get it in the back.The nice thing about TTI's and speed bumps is; you can hit 'em hard to get air, but you'll need some torque, or TM (TorqueMultiplication), or both,lol. I like smashing over them whenever I see a tuner-car crabbing over one. Yeah, I can be a dick; Hear my dual 3inchers roar!

If you go fast enough you won't crunch anything on speed bumps.
It's when the front end raises and then comes back down before you have cleared the bump that sucks, so you have to go fast enough so you clear the bump before the front end has a chance to raise up. (like 25mph or more)