Headlights trying to have their own dance party...

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ladyvaliant63

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This has me stumped. After driving for a little while, around 10-20 mins, my headlights start flickering on and off almost like a strobe light. I've had this problem for a little while and have read post after post trying to figure out how to fix it.
So far I've:
Cleaned all the wire connections I can find
Bought all new bulbs and cleaned the contact points
Installed a new turn signal switch
Replaced all the fuses

Ack! Help! The only other thing I can think it might be is the headlight switch?
 
I would try the headlight switch. Not sure on the 63's but a little later the headlight switch had a built in circuit breaker for the headlights and will go off and on in a some what random pattern. They get weak with age.
 
headlight switch is a good possibility
bad ground wire or connection
I had a similar problem with my headlights going out suddenly, it wasn't the fuse, it was the fuse holder, the connections were dirty and the fuse wasn't being held in tightly
 
Have you checked the large power wire going thru the bulk head? This is a common area where the wire melts and burns in half.
 
There is no headlight fuse. The headlight circuit is protected by a self-resetting thermal cutout circuit breaker in the headlight switch. It has grown soft with age and the resistance in the headlamp circuit has gone up with age, causing your problem. You could go through the headlight circuit and fix all the issues causing high resistance (new headlight switch and high/low beam kickswitch, wires, sockets, etc.) but you'll have a better result if you will install relays; see also here and here and here and here.
 
The problem does sound like a headlight switch as suggested already. Dan is correct that relays will enhance your lighting experience and take the load off of the switches and connectors. You should however find and fix your problem before you upgrade the lighting system with relays and whatnot.
 
headlight switch or high beam switch is what i think.


mine did it on the way to carlisle a few years ago. replaced the switch with one i bought there and it was fine after that.

be careful and check out the connector. this is what mine looked like after that happened...


DSC_9166.jpg
 
Changing the bulbs to those that draw more amperage will do the same.
If this is the case, replacing the headlight switch will be only a temporary fix.
 
Changing the bulbs to those that draw more amperage will do the same.
If this is the case, replacing the headlight switch will be only a temporary fix.

Hence, the reason relays are a good idea. (Even with "stock" illumination). Dan is absolutely right. Joe is clearly showing why you gotta make sure the stuff you have is in good condition also. It's why JUST putting in relays may solve your problem, but it won't FIX it.
 
headlight switch or high beam switch is what i think.


mine did it on the way to carlisle a few years ago. replaced the switch with one i bought there and it was fine after that.

be careful and check out the connector. this is what mine looked like after that happened...


DSC_9166.jpg

Don't ya just luv that smell?
 
YEP, It will the headlite switch. They have a circuit breaker inside that will as stated in a ealier post become soft and begin acting like a turn signal flasher after the lights have been on for a while. If you are running larger output bulbs it really makes the switch fail more quickly. Go with a new switch if stock liights or relay with more powerful bulbs
 
Actually, I'm going to disagree with a few folks here: Yes, you should probably put in a new headlight switch, and you should verify that the high/low beam kickswitch is okeh and all connections are making good contact, but opting to put in relays will make it basically unnecessary to spend much time, effort, or money on the original headlamp circuit finding and fixing high resistance. That's because when you put in relays, you are taking almost the entire workload off the original circuit, which is now used to trigger relays instead of power lights. Relays take only a tiny amount of current to operate so it doesn't matter if you have high resistance in the stock headlight circuit; it'll still provide ample problem-free current to trigger the relays. You build your own low-loss new circuit to power the headlamps via relays. Even ordinary standard headlamps burn way brighter with relays, see here.
 
Actually, I'm going to disagree with a few folks here: Yes, you should probably put in a new headlight switch, and you should verify that the high/low beam kickswitch is okeh and all connections are making good contact, but opting to put in relays will make it basically unnecessary to spend much time, effort, or money on the original headlamp circuit finding and fixing high resistance. That's because when you put in relays, you are taking almost the entire workload off the original circuit, which is now used to trigger relays instead of power lights. Relays take only a tiny amount of current to operate so it doesn't matter if you have high resistance in the stock headlight circuit; it'll still provide ample problem-free current to trigger the relays. You build your own low-loss new circuit to power the headlamps via relays. Even ordinary standard headlamps burn way brighter with relays, see here.

Plus next time the head lights have a fault you'll have more chit to troubleshoot. :Þ
 
hi im new to the site and i am having the same problem but i cant figure out how to get the nob off of the switch to pull it out. can any one help? thanks
 
You have to reach under the dash to the top (or bottom as I don't remember)of the actual headlight switch and you will feel a small button you need to push in as you pull on the knob.
 
Disconnect the battery negative cable. Reach up behind the dash and find the headlight switch body. On one side of it will be a small domed metal button, heavily spring-loaded. Figure out whether your thumb or index finger will reach it easier, then tape a penny to the applicable digit on the applicable hand. Go back under the dash and use the penny-taped-to-finger-or-thumb to push that button HARD while you give a good hard yank on the headlight knob. The knob and stem will (eventually) come out. Installation just requires pushing the stem back in all the way until it snap locks into the switch.
 
If you'll remove the one oval head phillips screw holding the fuse box in place. Lift the fuse box and sit it behind its mounting bracket.
This will allow even the largest hand to reach the release button commonly found on the right side of the switch. Pull the switch to its full on position before pressing the button.
DO NOT PRESS THE BUTTON WHEN REINSTALLING THE STEM. its tapered end will guide it past the catch.
Happy moparing
 
but opting to put in relays will make it basically unnecessary to spend much time, effort, or money on the original headlamp circuit finding and fixing high resistance.

I'm sorry Dan, but saying that installing the relays makes putting in the time for proper diagnostics unnecessary is foolish. I fully agree that the relays will improve the illumination of early vehicles. I also agree that the relays will significantly reduce the load on the original lighting circuit. I will however stand firm that to simply take a quick look at things, put in the relays and call it good, is a recipe for disaster. Sure, it could just be the breaker in the switch is old and soft, but what if it's something more? I've worked on vehicle wiring for quite a long time and if there is one thing I know for a fact, it's that if you take wiring for granted, it will bite you in the bum.
 
Good thing that's not really quite what I said, then, isn't it? :toothy10:

Silly boy, it's what's inferred that I'm concerned with. Remember, not everyone is as experienced or as knowledgeable as you. If they don't have the basics down, they could end up in trouble. I gotta lot of respect for what you know. I am just trying to help.....
 
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