I'm looking into getting aftermarket headlights for my 74 dart and want something that I can change the bulb in not just the whole thing and possibly hook up an HID kit. I don't know anything about this so any help/suggestions would be appreciated
Headlights
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74DartSwinger360
The Brat Pack
Subscribed
Have a Few Ideas Also but Not Sure I have a 74 Swinger as well
Iwas thinkin of just doin an H3 headlight conversion and get the replaceability of just changin the bulb not the assembly
Have a Few Ideas Also but Not Sure I have a 74 Swinger as well
Iwas thinkin of just doin an H3 headlight conversion and get the replaceability of just changin the bulb not the assembly
Yup. Or you can do a text heavy version of H4s on my website (which will link back to Dan's website) Short version is this.
Sealed halogens will be an upgrade over plain sealed beams.
H4 (or the DOT approved varient) will be a big upgrade in beam pattern and light quality.
All use the same wattage. The H4 is a bit more sensitive to voltage drops (you'll see the lights dim a bit if the alternator isn't keeping 14 volts at idle).
A big problem with all A-bodies I've owned has been the headlight wiring is the absolute minimum that current needs. If everything is in tip top shape, you're oK. If not, you'll get to find the weak link. In my cases, its been the circuit breaker in the headlight switch, the connector to the back of the switch, ground wires on the headlights themselves (chafed on the bucket). The best solution on a non-concours restoration is to install relays. The headlight switch then powers the relay (very low current draw). The relay when powered then switches on the headlights. The high draw power can come right off the alternator to the relay and then to the headlight. As these new wires are not on the main fuse or circuit breaker, adding a fuses is a part of the upgrade.
PS> Scott Harvey discovered that with H4s, foglights were no longer needed and he could use the auxilery lights on his rally cars for cornering and long distance lights.
Sealed halogens will be an upgrade over plain sealed beams.
H4 (or the DOT approved varient) will be a big upgrade in beam pattern and light quality.
All use the same wattage. The H4 is a bit more sensitive to voltage drops (you'll see the lights dim a bit if the alternator isn't keeping 14 volts at idle).
A big problem with all A-bodies I've owned has been the headlight wiring is the absolute minimum that current needs. If everything is in tip top shape, you're oK. If not, you'll get to find the weak link. In my cases, its been the circuit breaker in the headlight switch, the connector to the back of the switch, ground wires on the headlights themselves (chafed on the bucket). The best solution on a non-concours restoration is to install relays. The headlight switch then powers the relay (very low current draw). The relay when powered then switches on the headlights. The high draw power can come right off the alternator to the relay and then to the headlight. As these new wires are not on the main fuse or circuit breaker, adding a fuses is a part of the upgrade.
PS> Scott Harvey discovered that with H4s, foglights were no longer needed and he could use the auxilery lights on his rally cars for cornering and long distance lights.
74DartSwinger360
The Brat Pack
Oh yea forgot about dan just need to pm him. Thanks Revhendo
rayer:Yep, feeding the headlights good power is important... Stock wiring, even when in great shape is horribly undersized for the job.
Pentastarnut
67' Barracuda
i plan on running these with a quality H4 bulb, a relay and after market switch in a custom gauge panel.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/h4-headligh...Parts_Accessories&hash=item4ac3d57526&vxp=mtr
http://www.ebay.com/itm/h4-headligh...Parts_Accessories&hash=item4ac3d57526&vxp=mtr
Hey, you wouldn't happen to know anyone doing a plug in harness upgrade, would you?
inkjunkie
Well-Known Member
http://www.danielsternlighting.com/tech/bulbs/Hid/conversions/conversions.html
the above is from Dan's site. Keep in mind it is FACT not OPINIONS. I have a bookmark on a different computer that goes into detail on the HID stuff, I believe some of it was written by Dan....
the above is from Dan's site. Keep in mind it is FACT not OPINIONS. I have a bookmark on a different computer that goes into detail on the HID stuff, I believe some of it was written by Dan....
inkjunkie
Well-Known Member
pishta
I know I'm right....
relays and Good modern sealed beam Halogens. Lots of light. HID's without the projector bulbs and reflectors and fluted fresnel lenses or whatever they call them, are obnoxiously bright to everyone in front of you as they are not cut off under the rear windows. Might as well run Cibies on the roof for the people you will be pissing off.
67Dart273
Well-Known Member
X2
The other thing you guys ought'a think about some is DOT. All some cop "needs" when he'd LOVE to write you a great big ticket, and cannot quite justify it, is to waste a bunch of your time (and money!!) checkin out all the safety 'n "approval" crap on your car.........DOT tires, lights, etc.
inkjunkie
Well-Known Member
This is the very reason I will be staying out of Reardan during business hours. The cop that sits on Highway 2 is a real jack a**. Spoke to a woman that has a bike similar to mine. She even knows him, went to school with him. He pulled her over and wrote her up for the non-DOT complaint blinkers/brake/head light.
I followed Dans advice and got new factory lights for the Explorer, along with his relays and the bulbs he suggested. The Explorers head lights are now throw a very clean, bright but legal light. I need to get a hold of him and ask him about the fog lights that are on it......
Yeah I do and I do pretty good work! LOL
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