@$##@% Heads!

-

1969GTS

Well-Known Member
Joined
Apr 26, 2008
Messages
752
Reaction score
1
So I get the heads back from the machine shop today and they and go to install them. I get them all torqued down and start on the rocker arms. Just as I'm waiting for the click of the torque wrench ....snap! The *@#%*ng rocker arm bolt snaps off inside the pedestal. There goes 50 dollars in head gaskets and another wasted week as I wait for the machine shop to drill it out! Lately its been one step forward and two steps back! I'm so frustrated right now my eye is twitching. All I want to do is drive this thing! I guess I should look at all new bolts for the rocker arms as they are obviously past their prime as is my patience. OK I'm done ....... just needed to vent where, did I put my scotch?
 
LOL. Your only three hours from me we'll have to compare highland Vs lowland malts one day.
 
What were you torquing the bolts to?

I would reuse the head gasket too. I have done it in the past, as long as it is in the same postion ans same head you will be okay.
 
30 Ft/lbs as it said in the book. I'm not a happy camper I was going to try and tap it out but for what it will cost me to get it done at the machine shop its not worth the risk of screwing up a set of X heads. The are getting hard to find.
 

That same thing happened to my friends heads when we installed the rockers on his engine. Just like you we found a book that referenced 30 ft./lbs.. We also found other books that said something (measured in inch pounds but) equalling around 22 ft./lbs.. We were using new bolts but I think they were probably Chinese crap. 30 ft./lbs. does seem like too much torque! We were able to remove the rocker and using an awl gently bump the screw around by the edge until we got it out. Even if you have to remove the head you should be okay using the gasket again unless you`ve run the engine. Good luck!
 
I did this just 3 weeks ago on a set of 318 heads. I also was able to use an awl to just spin it around. Have you checked it yet to see if this is possible in your situation?
 
take and fill up every hole in the engine with towels so that no metal chip can get into the engine and sharpen a center punch and use it and a small hammer to gently walk the bolt back out of the hole,Id start on which ever part of the bolt that has a raised edge and gently tap straight downward...then turn the center punch in an angle so as to turn the broken bolt counter clock wise and tap on the center punch till it comes out. as far as reinstalling them i'd run them down by hand and tighten them that way,I use a torque wrench for the head bolts and mains and rods but I just don't trust the click type torque wrench for any thing that small.....but thats just me.
 
Just like Waggin said,see if you can get it out yourself..as for reinstalling them i've never used a torque wrench on those bolts...
 
I torqued mine to 18 ft/lbs... that's all you need. I bought the Hughes hold down kit and they say 18.

My book says "Rocker shaft bracket bolts 17 ft-lbs".

What kind of book you have? 30 ft/lbs seems a lot.
 
ARP makes some expensive but very nice automotive fasteners.
 
I torqued mine to 18 ft/lbs... that's all you need. I bought the Hughes hold down kit and they say 18.

My book says "Rocker shaft bracket bolts 17 ft-lbs".

What kind of book you have? 30 ft/lbs seems a lot.

I've got the hot rodding the small block mopars book. 70dart340 posted this about the head gaskets I'm using I may be replacing them both and picking up some ARP bolts.

"Fel-pros
Aren't the 8553-PT the thick gaskets. I'm pretty sure they're .055 thick compressed versus .039 for the standard. Anyone?"
 
Yes, you can re-use the thicker (.055) Fel-Pro gaskets.
 
one of my old books had 200 ft lbs!!!!!they really meant 200 INCH lbs

Note 40 inch lbs on the valve cover
 
remember, its only a 5/16 bolt with who knowa how many stretches (apart and together), and god knows how many heat cycles. i ALWAYS recommend new bolts throughout when rebuilding an engine.there is one thing i did when i was new at this, left hand drill bit. when it bites in, the bolt usually spins right out. i also feel like your head gasket will be fine,it has to heat up to make it unuseable. IMHO
 
Just tried getting it out and its the far rear bolt on the right hand side. You know the one with the heater motor in the way! I just pulled the head and it broken off on a weird angle. I think I will run it over to the shop as I've had awls, easy outs and drill bits break before and then you are hooped with a chunk of hardened steel in the middle. I think I'll go with 20 Ft pounds max this time as 30 seems excessive. What a pain ..... only because I've waited a year to drive it LOL.
 
I agree with a68postcar, its jst a 5/16 bolt. Intake bolts that are 3/8 bolts only get 25 ft/lbs. New bolts grade 5 or better will get the job done. I would go about 15 ft/lbs. and also use antiseize compound.
 
The reason I originally mentioned the torque number is I remember doing the same thing (breaking a bolt) a few years back. I found the torque specs in one book and I broke a bolt them I went looking in some other books and I found the 200 ft/lbs reference as someone else said. Then I was really confused. So I eventually found the correct spec. I wonder how many others have done the same thing due to some misinformation.
 
That sucks man. I know where your coming from. I just broke a thread tap off while tapping the oil pan bolt threads out in my block I'm rebuilding. What's worse is I did every bolt hole in the engine and was on the very last one. UGH!! Allot of times I can get bolts out with my left handed drill bit set but taps are too hard to drill. As the other guys said 30 ft. lbs. is too much for a 5/16 fastener. That book must have had a mis-print which I see every once in awhile.
 
Just my 2 worth. Rockers shaft hold down bolts are torqued at 200 inch pounds. That's on a 5/16-18 bolt. I broke one off years ago also. Was a misprint in a service manual that said 30 ft. lbs. Obviously that was too much. LOL
 
Don't buy or use anything but ARP hardware. After a long and expensive rebuild, there's no point in chancing all that work and money to used engine hardware -- it's just cheap insurance.
 
18 ft lbs is all that's needed. I use my 3/8" drive Snap-On click type torque wrench and have never had a problem, but I always use new hardware on a new engine too.

Fishy,

You might be able to "shatter" the tap with a hardened punch and a sharp whack. You are right, broken taps are a ***** and can't be drilled due to their hardness. I have been able to shatter it piece by piece. Is it a blind hole?
 
-
Back
Top Bottom