Heating up after car is shut off

-
fuzzman

fuzzman

Well-Known Member
Joined
Dec 23, 2009
Messages
262
Reaction score
45
Location
East Peoria IL
I have a stupid question to ask I have a 69 318 when I shut it off it climbs to 210 to 220 but I soon as I restart it the temp jumps back down to 190. I also have a 67 that has a 408 stroker and doesn’t do that when you **** it down. I use an electric gauge in the 69 plus the temp gauge in the dash. The motor has been rebuilt and I have fought heating issues. I use an aluminum radiator for both cars along with a mechanical fan and shroud. Just curious why it does that. I run a 191 thermostat in both cars.
Pat Faley
67 notchback
69 convertible
East Peoria IL
 
Usually a bad cap can cause that. You shut it odd and it looses pressure which lowers the boiling temp.
 
You want to make sure you have a full 4 gallons of coolant in your small block engine plus whatever coolant your heater core takes.

It's hard to get all the air out of the small blocks upon initial fill, unless you drill a 1/8" air bleed hole in your thermostat.

☆☆☆☆☆
 
You have to remember that when you turn the car off, that the water pump and and fan also stop. So the water temp gauge will spike for a moment because there is no flow. It's normal operation
 
George Jets said:
You want to make sure you have a full 4 gallons of coolant in your small block engine plus whatever coolant your heater core takes.

It's hard to get all the air out of the small blocks upon initial fill, unless you drill a 1/8" air bleed hole in your thermostat.

☆☆☆☆☆
Click to expand...
NO, it's not. (hard) Just disconnect the heater hose leading to the intake manifold, which is below the stat, and prop it into the air while filling. But I would agree that ALL stats should have a bleed hole

As long as the thing is not puking out the overflow, this is perfectly normal
 
67Dart273 said:
NO, it's not. (hard) Just disconnect the heater hose leading to the intake manifold, which is below the stat, and prop it into the air while filling. But I would agree that ALL stats should have a bleed hole

As long as the thing is not puking out the overflow, this is perfectly normal
Click to expand...
He can get one of those yellow bleeder kits at Harbor Frieght. The thing I read awhile ago was to jack the front of the car up, turn the heater on and have the radiator cap off until it stops burping all the air out then shut it off (around the time the Tstat opens) and that should be all that is needed (for bleeding the cooling system)
 
SRT_DSTRHOLC said:
You have to remember that when you turn the car off, that the water pump and and fan also stop. So the water temp gauge will spike for a moment because there is no flow. It's normal operation
Click to expand...


Yep, that's normal "heat soak" after the engine is shut off...
 
I once had an overheat issue that could not be solved in any usual way. I finally tore the engine down and increased, both the skirt clearance, and the ring gaps; problem solved.
 
There's lots of stuff in your engine that is hotter than the coolant (exhaust manifolds bolted to the engine is an example). When you shut down the engine and coolant stops circulating some of that heat transfers to coolant and the temp at the sender rises. Just as soon as you restart the car coolant circulates and the engine temp gauge should return to "normal" operating temp pretty quickly.
 
krazykuda said:
Yep, that's normal "heat soak" after the engine is shut off...
Click to expand...
This ^^^^^ Perfectly normal for about 15 minutes after the engine is shut off to heat up. No water pump or fan turning. After about 15 minutes, it will start to cool down.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top