HEI 1 Wire/Stock Ballast Wires

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mario03srt

mario03srt

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All,

While my engine is being finished I'm jumping on my Wiring.

I purchased one of the S White HEI one wire Dizzy to run the 360. I'm also going with a Powermaster Performance 90 amp Squareback Alternator one wire setup. Also going to complete the MAD Elecrtical Ammeter By-Pass and general upgrade.

All of the stock components have been pulled, v reg, ballast, orange box ecu. All of the connectors and harness also have been deleted. The old wire leads going into the dist box from the setup still have a decent bit of length.

Question is for this first part is, I recall reading that 2 of the ballast wires get connected together to complete the "uninstall". Is that correct? Which ones get attached? Looks like I have a heavier gage brown, sane gage blue with white stripe which splits to a 3 wire, and a smaller tan wire.

Also is there a better switched 12v ac source to wire to the S White Dizzy. A friend of mine was telling me to go with a relay off of the battery with a 10 gage wire to run it. Any suggestions?

This is my first old Mopar since the early 90's and am in a bit of a learning curve. I bought the car last June, and have replaced the Diff, and rebuilt the front suspension, and pulled the motor, stripped it, figured out the combo and it is being rebuilt, have a steering box on order to install too. My head is spinning from all of the things to learn and do.

Thanks,

Marion

Thanks for the help.
 
What year, make and model of A-Body, if you would please?

Connect all of the ballast wires together. The brown will be +12v when the key is in START and one of the blues will be +12v when the key is in RUN. The other wires go other subsystems like the original regulator that need +12v when running.

If you go with a relay switched ignition, then you need to use feeds from both the brown wire and the blue +12v feed wire above so that you will have power to the distributor in both START and RUN positions of the key. 10 ga for that seems a bit ridiculous for just the distributor; 16 ga should do fine for just the ignition. But if you are feeding other accessories from that relay, then perhaps 10 or 12 ga is best.
 
Hi,

The car is a 73 Dodge Dart Swinger.

So I'm looking at the ballast harness connectors. There is a 14 Gage BRN on one connector and a 16 Gage DrkBl on the opposite connector. Are you saying connect these 2? The 2 other wires, Blue/Yellow stripe and Green w/ Red Stripe fed into/out the ecu plug.

Or am I off? I there a sketch floating around? I looked for one but came up short.

Thanks,
Marion
 
mario03srt said:
Hi,

The car is a 73 Dodge Dart Swinger.

So I'm looking at the ballast harness connectors. There is a 14 Gage BRN on one connector and a 16 Gage DrkBl on the opposite connector. Are you saying connect these 2? The 2 other wires, Blue/Yellow stripe and Green w/ Red Stripe fed into/out the ecu plug.

Or am I off? I there a sketch floating around? I looked for one but came up short.

Thanks,
Marion
Click to expand...

The absolute easiest and sure way of getting the right wires to power your distributor is to test light the wires that used to go to your ballast resistor.
One (blue I think) will be hot when the key is on, and the brown one should be hot with the key in the start position.
Tie those two together and there is your power supply for the new distributor.
This gives the distributor power in both positions of the key (which is what you want)
 
Yes. You only need 12 V power to coil+. No need to power the 5-pin ECU plug since it will not be connected. A relay is smart, and I agree that 10 awg for ignition is silly. 14 awg is the max I would consider. But, some guys here use 0 awg welding cable for their alternator output. Whatever.
 
I completely rewired the engine starting and ignition system of a 88 dodge d250. I used a relay that is energized by a wire from the ignition that is hot while the key is in the start and run position....

I am using a skip white hei distributor also...along with one of the Ecoils..
 
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