Re index the top bracket that goes to the shock.
I loosened the brackets all the way up and got them moved as much as they would go.Re index the top bracket that goes to the shock.
I know, i have to find a smaller one that will fit both legs through the hole..Is anyone going to say anything about that cotter pin in the first photo? Cuz I'm not saying a word.
Ain't pretty but it will do the job. Good eye!Is anyone going to say anything about that cotter pin in the first photo? Cuz I'm not saying a word
when i rebuilt the front end, i was short one cotter key of the right size so i just stuck one side of that big one in there for the time being. Im glad you brought it up because i had totally forgotten about it.Now i will remember to pick one up that will fit.Ain't pretty but it will do the job. Good eye!
Safety is too important for a $0.25 cent partwhen i rebuilt the front end, i was short one cotter key of the right size so i just stuck one side of that big one in there for the time being. Im glad you brought it up because i had totally forgotten about it.Now i will remember to pick one up that will fit.
so, do you like the hellwig setup and did it make a big difference for you? I havent drove mine yet as its been icy.I have the same Hellwig bar on my Dart. With the shock mounted angle bracket not solid on the lower arms, things move around. Drive it down a nice twisty road and check it again.
so, do you like the hellwig setup and did it make a big difference for you? I havent drove mine yet as its been icy.
so, do you like the hellwig setup and did it make a big difference for you? I havent drove mine yet as its been icy.
Flip the shock brackets 180* degrees. Done.
never was happy with the cheesy instructions that came with it. They showed the L brackets up like i have them, so looks like the directions are backwards..?This is what you need to do. I bought a Hellwig front bar through BAC @GMachineDartGT and had the same issue, after some back-and-forth Peter noted that the sway bar should be close to parallel with the strut rod at ride height so I flipped the brackets around. The angles are still a bit off and the top bushings rub on my adjustable strut rods but it definitely works. I would move the brackets out farther and weld them to the LCAs but then they'd be getting tight with the big ol' single-piston brake calipers at full lock. Maybe when I upgrade to modern Mustang brakes I'll do it idk, I'm sure it'll firm things up a bit more having the links vertical like they're supposed to be. Could flip the calipers to rear-mount but I don't feel like tearing down the whole front end to swap spindles from one side to the other.
Btw I HIGHLY recommend a rear sway bar. Putting one on my Duster made it feel like the wheelbase was shortened by a foot the whole car is so much more responsive in cornering, doesn't feel like the rear wheels are being dragged around against their will anymore. I'm running 275-wide Continental ultra-high-performance tires in the rear so grip isn't an issue, even on the stiffest setting (which I leave it at all the time) for the rear bar I've never felt like the car wanted to oversteer. It's just about neutral now tbh. Might have to go down a setting when I get a working LSD in the rear though.