Help..car just died..

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grassy

grassy

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Finally found a company that would insure Sarah and her car...see pic..

850454466_kxRpW-XL.jpg


Then the car seemed harder to start and yesterday,it wouldn't start...the first full day of her license..she is kinda upset..it took from Feb 18th to two days ago to set everything up. In Canada, if you have more than 2 cars and more than two drivers, the third person has to be a principal on one car. I had to find a company tat would insure at appraised value..

Anyway, I even stick a little ether down the carb...wouldn't even kick for me..so I am guessing no spark.

Coil ?

Any suggestions ?

Thanks
Ian.
 
hold the coil wire in your hand and crank it if you jump you have spark. lol had to say that. beter to use a screw driver in the end of wire to cap ground on the block then crank and we can go from there ok. don,t hold it
 
Not sure about american car engines.

The first thing I would normally start with would be check for spark then branch out...

Where would you start ?

Thanks
ian.
 
grassy said:
Not sure about american car engines.

The first thing I would normally start with would be check for spark then branch out...

Where would you start ?

Thanks
ian.
Click to expand...

Same place. Engines are engines no matter where they came from. Usually, when a Mopar does what you describe, the ballast resistor is fried. I carry a spare one in the trunk. By the way, it looks like the right front tire is leaning in a bit too much at the top. May want to check the lower ball joints.
 
When you register you car as an antique in this province,you only have to have you car inspected once. As a regular car,you have to do it every year. Good call,btw.

I was planning to redo the entire front end this summer but when I take it in to be inspected ..this week I hope :) I will point that out to them..I go to a family garage that are more than honest ..they amaze me and I have been going there for years.

Is the ballast resistor in the coil or external..ran both types on my MG ?

Thanks
Ian.
 
grumpuscreature said:
Same place. Engines are engines no matter where they came from.
Click to expand...

Agreed. Might I suggest a cheap tool for checking spark through the wires, though, so you don't wind up getting bit? Some guys get bit once from the old tried and true screwdriver method and are shy of diving back in there.

spark plug tester.jpg

Can be had at most parts stores for less than $10.

spark plug tester.jpg
 
When you register you car as an antique in this province,you only have to have you car inspected once. As a regular car,you have to do it every year. Good call,btw.

I was planning to redo the entire front end this summer but when I take it in to be inspected ..this week I hope :) I will point that out to them..I go to a family garage that are more than honest ..they amaze me and I have been going there for years.

Is the ballast resistor in the coil or external..ran both types on my MG ?

Thanks
Ian.
 
grassy said:
When you register you car as an antique in this province,you only have to have you car inspected once. As a regular car,you have to do it every year. Good call,btw.

I was planning to redo the entire front end this summer but when I take it in to be inspected ..this week I hope :) I will point that out to them..I go to a family garage that are more than honest ..they amaze me and I have been going there for years.

Is the ballast resistor in the coil or external..ran both types on my MG ?

Thanks
Ian.
Click to expand...

If it hasn't been converted away from Mopar's ignition, the ballast is external. Little white thing with a bracket on the firewall with some wires coming out of it.

It'll look something like this.

ballast.jpg
 
ramenth,

What a cool tool...I used to pull a plug and lay it near the block..and had someone looking at it..but this is much better....can I buy ay UA or other parts store ?
 
OK..I was thinking of something else...have to drive by UAP anyway this morning..will drop in.

Thanks guys..I appreciate your help..I have only been working on two stks for the last 5 years.

ian.
 
grassy said:
ramenth,

What a cool tool...I used to pull a plug and lay it near the block..and had someone looking at it..but this is much better....can I buy ay UA or other parts store ?
Click to expand...


Like I said, most parts houses should have one. I bought mine specifically for COP ignitions, but it's been handier than hell for everything else, too.
 
Can I bypass this unit just to see if it is the problem..and if so, can I drive it like that for a couple of miles ?

Getting excited that it may be an easy fix :)

Thanks
ian.
 
I would start with the ballast resistor. One bolt holds it to the firewall and you may see the fault looking at the backside of it.
Her smile should draw helpers from miles around. I was propositioned at the parts store a few times. " Dont you want to follow me home and take a look at my car ?"
Very few of us motorheads could resist such a pickup line.
 
OK What did I do right ??

I took off the ballast resistor..held on by one big screw that you put a socket on..looked good but it has tiny cracks in it.. I clean everything with brake cleaner and put it back together..I followed on line to another connector..no idea what it is but I popped it off as well and cleaned it. Should I get two of these immediately ? One to put on, and one for spare ? I will have the same set up with the V8 when we put it in.

Tried starting it again this am..no joy..

came back to it this afternoon..

Grabbed a bunch of odd wires and tried to move them..no go..the PO put tar all over the place..I guess that is the reason it is not rusted but a pain to work round..the /6 is not an easy engine to work around because everything in under the slant vs on the other side..

Anyway, I just glared at it in frustration..tried it again and I could hear it trying ..it started with the third twist.

What is the protocol for starting this car when cold ?

Couple of pumps and leave foot off of gas ?

When warm, it will either start immediately or I have to keep the petal floored for it to kick in.

I remember from a previous girl friend's father who had a farm that this was the only engine he could count on to start in the cold.

Ian.
 
It goes in tomorrow for a safety..I gave them the heads up re lower ball joints..

Thanks all....

Oh, having the ballast changed as well.

Ian.
 
Put an ohmmeter across the ballast, or; check for 12 volts from key/battery side to coil side. 12 volts in; with key in run, 10 volts out, or are a little less. Key in start, 12 volts out, to coil.
 
Buy 2 ballast resistors Ian, like someone else said have a spare in the glovebox...they go without warning. Also carry a spare socket in glove box to change the ballast, not much sense in having the spare part and not being able to put it on. Same with coils they go as well without warning I think anyway, so if you can afford it, grab a spare coil and throw it in the car too.
One question for whoever knows, what is the difference in the 4 post ballast, versus the 2 post ballast??
Thanks
Steve
 
Oh yeah I agree with Redfish on her smile! Testosterone levels go up when a good looking girl walks into the parts store looking for help. They will be fighting to help her out!!
 
Steve,

Thanks for the suggestion. I was thinking of going down to Princess Auto and buying one of those"emergency" kids bot most of the stuff is geared to Winter driving. Well, the car will not be driven in the snow.

This really begs the question..what should we carry in an emergency box in the trunk. I agree with the ballast and the coil..what else goes wrong on there cars...I was looking for the fuse box..does it have one ? Maybe a pylon or two.....

Thanks
Ian.
 
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