Help How do I center my steering wheel?

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tekslk

tekslk

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1967 Plymouth barracuda,
Front end just aligned and the steering wheel is just a tad to the left and I'm really fussy about things like that, I'm a little out of the way for taking it back and I couldn't find anything under google. Could someone please give me some step by step instructions please. Thanks in advance for the help.
 
I have the same problem. I think you would just need to shorten one tie rod and lengthen the other. However, that would mess up your toe-in setting unless you are very careful to adjust both sides by the same amount. In other words, don't change the combined length of both tie rods.
 
rich006 said:
I have the same problem. I think you would just need to shorten one tie rod and lengthen the other. However, that would mess up your toe-in setting unless you are very careful to adjust both sides by the same amount. In other words, don't change the combined length of both tie rods.
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Wheel alignment guy should have "centered" the steering wheel, on the alignment rack, and anchored it down in position.
Then set the toe specifications.
Hafta take it back to the shop, mechanic, and have it reset.
 
Like I said I'm very fussy, too far to drive to get the mechanic to do it, So do I basically turn one tie rod one way and the other one the opposite way?
 
tekslk said:
Like I said I'm very fussy, too far to drive to get the mechanic to do it, So do I basically turn one tie rod one way and the other one the opposite way?
Click to expand...

Well, if your that far out in the boondocks to go back to the shop that did the alignment, you probably can eyeball it, but then your gonna, hafta, live with tire wear problems, if not set correctly.
Your choice, go into town, or maybe just live with it, the way it is.
 
I worked on f4s in ramstein germany back in the 70s. 90 miles round trip to the guy that does my aleignment so I'm not sure yet but I'm not gonna live with it, I have to live with my wife, that's the only thing I have to live with, but if she doesn't behave shes out the door. talk is cheap when shes not around.
 
Well, the price that you hafta pay, living out in the sticks. :D

For me Zweibrucken (Sunny Zwei) was 74-76.
But was at Ramstein also for months, when they closed down the runway at Zwei, for major repairs.
 
I was at rein main 74-77 but did lots of time at ramstein. It was a good tour.
 
Well I turned tie rod ends and totally screwed this up so I guess will be going for a ride to the aliegnment shop this week, get it done right.
 
I wish I had seen this earlier. Had he same issue with our first 67 notchback while working at Robbins Tire/Auto in Powdersville. Brand new alignment rack too. Mine was the 4th car on it.
Although everything about the 67 steering shaft is master splined, Removing the master spline from the steering wheel hub is easy. You would need a steering wheel puller and a small file. Yep, I had to do that.
Keep this in mind since the alignment rack may not get it perfect. Factors that play in to steering wheel position are, wear in steering gear, movement in a poorly designed ( 67 ) idler arm, crown in paved roads, radial tire pull, and the drive line / track offset built into the car.
If the alignment rack you access has been calibrated regularly or recently, it will set up the car for proper tire wear. Where the steering wheel rests while driving a straight road is secondary to that.
The saddest part, There are a lot of shops that don't pony up the cost to have their rack recalibrated regularly. My personal belief, If every rack in use today was maintained as it should be, Moog, Bear, etc.., would need to hire more field service people.
 
RedFish said:
I wish I had seen this earlier. Had he same issue with our first 67 notchback while working at Robbins Tire/Auto in Powdersville. Brand new alignment rack too. Mine was the 4th car on it.
Although everything about the 67 steering shaft is master splined, Removing the master spline from the steering wheel hub is easy. You would need a steering wheel puller and a small file. Yep, I had to do that.
Keep this in mind since the alignment rack may not get it perfect. Factors that play in to steering wheel position are, wear in steering gear, movement in a poorly designed ( 67 ) idler arm, crown in paved roads, radial tire pull, and the drive line / track offset built into the car.
If the alignment rack you access has been calibrated regularly or recently, it will set up the car for proper tire wear. Where the steering wheel rests while driving a straight road is secondary to that.
The saddest part, There are a lot of shops that don't pony up the cost to have their rack recalibrated regularly. My personal belief, If every rack in use today was maintained as it should be, Moog, Bear, etc.., would need to hire more field service people.
Click to expand...
its very easy to set the toe in after you get the wheel straightened up. you can do it w/ a tape measure if your careful, and have someone to help hold the end of it. be very accurate and go for an 1/8th " closer in front-versus the rear at mid tire heighth.
 
Did the same with the key way on the shaft of my 67 Dart. Had it back into the Bear frame shop a couple of times and the guy that does the older stuff gave me the suggestion. Once done you can simply turn the wheel 1 spline at a time till it rides center the way you want it.

I suppose with no power steering there's a remote possibility you strip the spline, but doubt it.
 
tekslk said:
So doing the spline grind is easier to do then the tie rods?
Click to expand...
Its not about whats easiest.
First the standing alignment is set correctly.
If/when street driving presents a steering wheel offset, correcting that is second.
 
I took it back tonight and had it realigned, they just got a new machine in everything is great now, he charged me for half a alignment and I tipped him $10. Great to have things right. I'm 64 years old maybe I better stick to greasing speedometer cables or something easy. Thanks for all the help guys.
 
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