Help me find the umph in my 360

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With 3.55 gears around 3000 rpm I'm at 50 mph.

That's about right with your short sidewall rear tires.

Lets hope it's just your Flex Plate to Torque Converter bolts that started working loose after winding up the fresh engine to 6000 rpm on earlier test drives.

Rod and Main bearing failures usually don't go quiet once they start knocking.

☆☆☆☆☆

☆☆☆☆☆
 
Ricks70Duster340 said:
I've had just the opposite experience. The Lokar kit installed easily and worked perfectly. If folks have the factory intake, then factory throttle & kickdown would be fine. Few of us have original stuff though.
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You're right about the factory stuff. I just cannot agree about Lokar stuff.
 
dustyaman said:
Wouldn't I still have to get new lifters because it would be a basically new grind?

If I did that does it bring the power curve down more with advancing the cam?
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Yes.
 
They've got you spending money you don't need to spend. You can make that engine haul *** just by tuning what you have. Good luck with your decision.
 
dustyaman said:
So with you guys saying my mph doesn't match the rpm with my 3.55 gears. Is it the cam causing issues with the torque converter causing it to slip since it's built more for top end?
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no
get your tire dia plug that into the calc to find out your gears
27 tall tire 50 mph@3000=4.56 gear
26 tire 50@3000=4.30 gear
trans could be slipping or the converter could be junk or your spedo is off
you need to work the problem
verify mph@50
verify tach isnt junk
verify trans isnt slipping
verify proper kickdown
verify gear ratio
verify tire size
checking cam is about 7th on the list
nice looking ride
 
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George Jets said:
With 3.55 gears around 3000 rpm I'm at 50 mph.

That's about right with your short sidewall rear tires.

Lets hope it's just your Flex Plate to Torque Converter bolts that started working loose after winding up the fresh engine to 6000 rpm on earlier test drives.

Rod and Main bearing failures usually don't go quiet once they start knocking.

☆☆☆☆☆

☆☆☆☆☆
Click to expand...
I will double check those when I get home. But I think I might know where it came from. When I went around a round a bout this morning is when it occurred. Then I didnt hear it when I decided to risk it and take the car home. " I'm like 3 Miles away from work". I think my exhaust was tapping my transmission cross member causing it to sound mechanical. . So I'm going to take the exhaust off and bang it allitle bit to give it some breathing room also. I'm going to do a full under the car inspection tonight.
 
a-bodyguy said:
no
get your tire dia plug that into the calc to find out your gears
27 tall tire 50 mph@3000=4.56 gear
26 tire 50@3000=4.30 gear
trans could be slipping or the converter could be junk or your spedo is off
you need to work the problem
verify mph@50
verify tach isnt junk
verify trans isnt slipping
verify proper kickdown
verify gear ratio
verify tire size
checking cam is about 7th on the list
nice looking ride
Click to expand...
I feel you on the torque converter slipping. Because at cruising speed below the power band of the cam the car has a very light surge to it. Very minimal. But afr is showing like 13.5 to 14.2 when cruising. So I know it's not a lean condition. I just wonder if the the converter is fighting the cam. And my rear tire is a 225 50 r17
 
George Jets said:
With 3.55 gears around 3000 rpm I'm at 50 mph.

That's about right with your short sidewall rear tires.

Lets hope it's just your Flex Plate to Torque Converter bolts that started working loose after winding up the fresh engine to 6000 rpm on earlier test drives.

Rod and Main bearing failures usually don't go quiet once they start knocking.

☆☆☆☆☆

☆☆☆☆☆
Click to expand...
how do you figure that?
25 tall tire 50@3000=4.23 gears
21 tall =50@3000=3.55
 
dustyaman said:
I feel you on the torque converter slipping. Because at cruising speed below the power band of the cam the car has a very light surge to it. Very minimal. But afr is showing like 13.5 to 14.2 when cruising. So I know it's not a lean condition. I just wonder if the the converter is fighting the cam. And my rear tire is a 225 50 r17
Click to expand...
25.9@50mph@3000=4.38 gears
[email protected]@3000=3.55s
 
dustyaman said:
No wonder its such a high rpm at 50 mile per hour lol
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thats if your tach and spedo are right both need to be verified
4.30s is the closet gear ratio a 228@50 cam with 4.30 should burn the tires@ will 2 gears stock verter or not
until you verify the easy chit youcant get to the harder chit like the cam
more then likey you have 3.55s not 4.30s
the cam could be advanced 10 degrees just as easy
how many inches of vacuum does it pull at idle?
 
a-bodyguy said:
thats if your tach and spedo are right both need to be verified
4.30s is the closet gear ratio a 228@50 cam with 4.30 should burn the tires@ will 2 gears stock verter or not
until you verify the easy chit youcant get to the harder chit like the cam
more then likey you have 3.55s not 4.30s
the cam could be advanced 10 degrees just as easy
Click to expand...
im getting 12 inches of vacuum at 20 degrees initial. Now to better help maybe on some information. i did get a double roller timing chain that has all the notches in it to degree the cam more if i wanted to. but i did set it at 0 when i installed my cam. i think that might be my mistake. i should of advanced the cam 4 degrees when i installed the cam.
 
here is the cam card

Screenshot_20230710_122351_Acrobat for Samsung.jpg
 
dustyaman said:
im getting 12 inches of vacuum at 20 degrees initial. Now to better help maybe on some information. i did get a double roller timing chain that has all the notches in it to degree the cam more if i wanted to. but i did set it at 0 when i installed my cam. i think that might be my mistake. i should of advanced the cam 4 degrees when i installed the cam.
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just because you use the 4 degree advance slot it could still be retarded or advanced to much

tune the combo as it is
verify tach spedo kickdown and gear ratio go from there
 
a-bodyguy said:
just because you use the 4 degree advance slot it could still be retarded or advanced to much

tune the combo as it is
verify tach spedo kickdown and gear ratio go from there
Click to expand...
I thought cam timing and disty timing aren't related. So if say the cam is set to retarded do i have to just keep advancing the disty until i find the sweet spot. i thought it was always best to get cam timing right first before worrying about disty timing. Am i wrong.
 
dustyaman said:
I thought cam timing and disty timing aren't related. So if say the cam is set to retarded do i have to just keep advancing the disty until i find the sweet spot. i thought it was always best to get cam timing right first before worrying about disty timing. Am i wrong.
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its a little late for that if you didnt degree the cam
thats why you verify tach spedo gears kickdown and tune
then if it still blows you look at the cam
lots of variables you dont know comp ratio or cam install point
advancing timming is a crutch to a retarded cam
if you knew it was best why did not degree it
enough talk
until you verify the setup
you are no where
 
a-bodyguy said:
its a little late for that if you didnt degree the cam
thats why you verify tach spedo gears kickdown and tune
then if it still blows you look at the cam
lots of variables you dont know comp ratio or cam install point
advancing timming is a crutch to a retarded cam
if you knew it was best why did not degree it
enough talk
until you verify the setup
you are no where
Click to expand...
i used gps on my phone to get mph. Not speedo. I don't have a speedo hooked up at this point. And not degreeing the cam like i should of is before I started learning all of this. I'm learning on the fly man cut me some slack. The gears are 3.55 for sure becuase its stamped on the gears. I know i made the mistake on not degreeing the cam like i should of. Thats my bad. and its not that bad for me to pull everything apart get new gaskets and doing it the right way this time. This is just my fun side car.
 
Verify your rear gear ratio. The 3.55 ratio is not adding up.

Jack up the rear of the car, wheels off the ground.

Chaulk mark the Driveshaft and tires (with Sure-grip differential), count the driveshaft revolutions per one rotation of the tire.

Should be more like 4.25 driveshaft revolutions per one tire revolution.

4.30 rear ratio
225/50 17
25.86" tire diameter

Let's get that ratio double checked. 50 year old cars, lots of other people have been into it, who knows what the car has been through?

☆☆☆☆☆
 
go back and read AJ's post (#26) I like many have been in your shoes.
8:1 compression needs a short duration cam for street performance.
 
George Jets said:
Verify your rear gear ratio. The 3.55 ratio is not adding up.

Jack up the rear of the car, wheels off the ground.

Chaulk mark the Driveshaft and tires (with Sure-grip differential), count the driveshaft revolutions per on rotation of the tire.

Should be more like 4.25 driveshaft revolutions per one tire revolution.

4.30 rear ratio
225/50 17
25.86" tire diameter

Let's get that ratio double checked. 50 year old cars, lots of other people have been into it, who knows what the car has been through?

☆☆☆☆☆
Click to expand...
The rear end is fully rebuilt. It was out 0f a 96 jeep cherokee. i verified it when i got the rear end and counted the teeth it matches the stamp on the gears. it came with a open diff i swapped it for a new yukon duragrip and new forged axles, with all new seals. the tire size is 225 50 r 17. That equates to a 25.9x 8.9 tire size.
 
We have all done things wrong, that's how we learn sometimes, slow the process down and read up and watch some videos on how to degree a camshaft after you confirm Top Dead Center. It's possible you were in 2nd gear when you were reading 50 mph @ 3000 rpm's due to possible problem on trans pressure to throttle angle, possible some more reading needs to be done.
 
moparlvr166 said:
We have all done things wrong, that's how we learn sometimes, slow the process down and read up and watch some videos on how to degree a camshaft after you confirm Top Dead Center. It's possible you were in 2nd gear when you were reading 50 mph @ 3000 rpm's due to possible problem on trans pressure to throttle angle, possible some more reading needs to be done.
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oh believe me tonight is going to be a full on investigation night after work. But yes it was in third gear because i feel it shift into third gear then from there it just keeps rising.
 
dustyaman said:
i used gps on my phone to get mph. Not speedo. I don't have a speedo hooked up at this point. And not degreeing the cam like i should of is before I started learning all of this. I'm learning on the fly man cut me some slack. The gears are 3.55 for sure becuase its stamped on the gears. I know i made the mistake on not degreeing the cam like i should of. Thats my bad. and its not that bad for me to pull everything apart get new gaskets and doing it the right way this time. This is just my fun side car.
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You are assuming your tach is reading correctly.
 
65 Cuda 340 said:
You are assuming your tach is reading correctly.
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i will double check it again tonight. im wondering after i took the gauges out recently "before i got the car up and going my tack setting is on 6 that would make more since. That would jump rpm about 500 ish that would align with all my stats on my tire size and gear ratio. Another thing to investigate tonight.
 
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