69_340_GTS
Well-Known Member
Do you have a throttle cable and trans. kickdown bracket mounted there? I think that caused the bolt to be inaccessible. And yeah, I have every wrench known to man.
Help me plan: My first intake swap ... EVER.
- Thread starter 7milesout
- Start date
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You have to remove the throttle cable and kick down linkage no matter what...
69_340_GTS
Well-Known Member
No kidding.
I would like to re-visit the need for beer. Some might think unnecessary, but at that point you don't care.
Cold Coors Banquet Beer in a bottle is often times better than Excedrin! With me anymore, coffee is a greater blessing.
ScampMike
Despicable Damn Yankee
coffee and beer ARE tools.
Done procured those tools, when I first started seriously tuning / maintaining / giving the ole Scamp the love it hadn't had in 15 years. I needed to adjust initial timing, and my socket tools, no matter the combo was a PITA. The previous owner (great guy, took good care of the Scamp, but his wife had been sick and needing near full time care (which he handled himself) which left him no time for the Scamp in 15 years), said that some motorhead set his timing based on "hearing / listening" to it.
The previous owner (my first engineering mentor) is 100% old school to this day. Wouldn't know what an AFR is (for example), but would appreciate it if I showed it to him in action. The timing was set at about 19° BTDC initial timing (no vacuum advance). I had to put a new harmonic balancer on it, and when doing so I put timing tape on it, accurate down to a gnat's hiney. After the new HB with timing tape is where I found the timing at 19°. I pulled the initial timing back to ~10°, and then later to 9°. I still think I hear pre-ignition under certain circumstances … and the AFR gauge proves it's not pre-ignition due to lean AFR. So … maybe I'm not really hearing pre-ignition. Anywho, it runs good, good power. I'm not a timing expert but I think it's set well for this engine.
@69_340_GTS Not a great tool or no longer available Why the red X?
69_340_GTS
Well-Known Member
Because I have them and they are useless for the driver's side rear manifold bolt. The kickdown bracket is in the way on one side, the distributor is in the way on the other side. The bolt holds the bracket, so to get to it the distributor has to come out. I'm sorry, that's just how it is. Maybe some brackets are different. I don't know.
Then why don't you just tell us that like you did instead of pissing everybody off by giving them a red X. I get tired of clearing reported posts. You have posted your opinion now go back and shut off the X's.
69_340_GTS
Well-Known Member
They disagreed with me, so I disagreed with them. That isn't allowed? Been on here a while, and never heard of a rule like that. I won't ever red-X a post again.
I still prefer a 1/4 breaker bar/power handle with a 1/2 inch 12 point socket for that job, but I would think a short reversible gear wrench may work too.
Exactly, it doesn't matter what works as long as it does. I have a 1/2-9/16 combination box wrench that I use for almost everything. As long as it does the job who cares.
I’m right there with you on the combination wrenches. I’ve got a 10 inch Allen brand boxed end 1/2-9/16 combination that has nearly replaced half of my tools lately. I still don’t know how I managed without it before. When the flea market opens back up I’ll get a 5/8-11/16 along with a 3/4-13/16 and be putting most of my tools into near hibernation.
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Talk about digging up an old thread. And just to argue too.
All I know is that I’ve now removed my small block intake, 3 times since the last post on this thread prior to day, without once pulling the dizzy.
heres ya some pics for proof. Just because something is difficult, doesn’t mean it’s impossible. And to be frank, a simple ratcheting wrench is all I used.
while this is a poly, I can do and have done the exact same thing on a 360 turned 408.
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