Help me plan: My first intake swap ... EVER.

[7milesout]

TrailBeast. I've drained and refilled my coolant more than a few times. And it's never been difficult at all to fill. Re-checks show it's always topped off. Maybe the current thermostat is drilled, dunno. Never had it off. I just got through thermocuring the coolant system (in December). I wanted that done BEFORE installing a new intake. The coolant system wasn't as nasty as I suspected.

Oh, and the advice about new belts and hoses … that's a good one. I think I'll start planning that out. Would hate to blow a hose or fling a belt off at the dragstrip due to lack of attention. I try to plan everything out. Like on Red October, "a Ruskie doesn't take a dump without making a plan first."


7milesout

 

[TrailBeast]

Is there some kind of applicator I should procure to make nice pretty sealant beads?

7milesout

Some use a caulking gun, but I don't.
Just squeeze plenty to get a thick bead and move at a steady pace.
If there is a tip like RTV has, cut it back to about 1/4 inch opening.

If you screw up really bad it's not hard to start over.

BTW, if you get ANY coolant in the motor dab it out of the lifter valley and do not start the motor until you either change the oil or at least pull the drain plug just enough to let any out before you start it. (coolant sinks to the bottom in oil)
Coolant is HORRIBLE for babbit bearings.

 

[TrailBeast]

TrailBeast. I've drained and refilled my coolant more than a few times. And it's never been difficult at all to fill. Re-checks show it's always topped off. Maybe the current thermostat is drilled, dunno. Never had it off. I just got through thermocuring the coolant system (in December). I wanted that done BEFORE installing a new intake. The coolant system wasn't as nasty as I suspected.

Oh, and the advice about new belts and hoses … that's a good one. I think I'll start planning that out. Would hate to blow a hose or fling a belt off at the dragstrip due to lack of attention. I try to plan everything out. Like on Red October, "a Ruskie doesn't take a dump without making a plan first."


7milesout

Not a bad idea.
Just remember to at least heat cycle and retighten the hoses before you really trust it.
New hoses loosen up after being run the first time or two.

 

[Tooljunkie]

Dont rush.
Silicone sealant wont skin over in the couple minutes it takes to place the mannifold.

It wont be a problem if it skins anyway.
On diff covers i apply silicone and take a break to let it skin a little. Never leaks. Done this since the beginning of my auto repair days.

 

[YY1]

Lot more room to work, esp for scraping gasket areas.

Not 100% necessary.

 

[rumblefish360]

On the distributor you can pull the cap and mark where the rotor is pointing on the housing where the cap sits, and also a mark on the distributor base to block.
This way you can drop it back in right where it was really easy.

Good luck getting the rear bolts out (or back in) without pulling the dist. out. Plus, it is so much easier to work on everything back there without the dist. in the way. But of course, to each his own.

You should stop postiong about small blocks as well.

There is no need to pull the distributor to swap the intake!

None!
Zero!
Zip!
Zilch!
Nada!

There isn't a need to even take off the distributor cap!

 

[dukeboy440]

You should stop postiong about small blocks as well.

There is no need to pull the distributor to swap the intake!

None!
Zero!
Zip!
Zilch!
Nada!

There isn't a need to even take off the distributor cap!

 

[TrailBeast]

You should stop postiong about small blocks as well.

What you talking about Willis?

 

[dukeboy440]

What you talking about Willis?

you don't need to pull the dizzy...

 

[toolmanmike]

Dont rush.
Silicone sealant wont skin over in the couple minutes it takes to place the mannifold.

It wont be a problem if it skins anyway.
On diff covers i apply silicone and take a break to let it skin a little. Never leaks. Done this since the beginning of my auto repair days.

I set the manifold, torque, and bolt on the goodies. I let it set up overnight. Good to go the next day. Silicone needs air to cure. I also leave the PCV and oil fill cap off. I have seen guys at dealerships slap a rear end cover on, fill it with lube and off for a test drive. Sorry, I don't do it that way.

 

[TrailBeast]

You should stop postiong about small blocks as well.

There is no need to pull the distributor to swap the intake!

None!
Zero!
Zip!
Zilch!
Nada!

There isn't a need to even take off the distributor cap!

you don't need to pull the dizzy...

I know that but it came up so I answered how to make it easy if he wanted to pull it.
Some people are freaked out about pulling one because they think it'll be a ***** to put back right, when in fact the Mopars are one of the simplest to put back where it was.

I set the manifold, torque, and bolt on the goodies. I let it set up overnight. Good to go the next day. Silicone needs air to cure. I also leave the PCV and oil fill cap off. I have seen guys at dealerships slap a rear end cover on, fill it with lube and off for a test drive. Sorry, I don't do it that way.

I have seen trans shops do that with pans on a regular basis as normal operating procedure and it worked out fine.
Made me nervous, but they did it all the time.

 

[RedFish]

The repeating "beer" leads to predict a bad outcome, at least one do over. I wont type out the examples I have witnessed.

 

[ScampMike]

Guys,

I've done a lot of things to cars / bikes. Not nearly as much as some though. Mostly on motorcycles and diesel trucks. But I've never done an intake on a V8. This will be my first.

This spring or summer (after achieving 13.999 second E.T. on my current set-up), I plan to remove the original / stock / current intake on my LA 360, and replace with an Air-Gap intake. At the same time, I will install the AVS2, and a new thermostat.

I was reading a thread on here about keeping the coolant out of the oil, and I think that's not such a big deal. I'll follow the recommendations, as well as doing an oil change after running the engine for maybe 5 minutes (in an effort to "gather" the coolant).

But other things I read in that thread got my mind to thinking in the way that actual smart peoples' mind works without having to be forced (like mine). Aside from the intake manifold changing process (I think I'll be fine with that, and all the ancillary recommended steps to take in that process), what other things should I consider doing while the intake is off?

For example - I'm no lifter expert. I'm a complete rookie. I know what lifters do, but I don't know if there are "performance" lifters out there that are worth swapping out while in there. Maybe a lifter is lifter (assuming it is functioning properly). Lifters are just an example. And besides, the engine seems to run just fine, and only currently makes a skosh over 300 FWHP / ~ 260 hp at the crank. It's no monster. But runs nice.

But are there other things I should plan to update / replace / inspect / service, while replacing the intake?

Thanks for helping a rookie plan ahead.


7milesout

I may have rolled through this thread too quickly and missed it - no mention of the interference with the valve covers with the Air Gap intake..??? I installed the same intake on a 360 last year and the runners are enough bigger that I had to modify my valve covers - mine are aftermarket fabricated. I would wager a guess that even using original type valve covers that the inside edges will interfere with a trouble free install of that intake. JM2C

 

[Johnny Dart]

No need to pull the distributor, but you will have much more room having the distributor,wires, out of the way.

Put your motor at tdc (top dead center).
With the cap off, the rotor should be facing the no.1 cylinder.
Unbolt the distributor hold down, and pull out distributor.
Simple stuff.

 

[69_340_GTS]

To everyone that says you "do not" need to take the dist. out: I just found that the rear-left manifold bolt was impossible to get out with the dist. in the way. Maybe because it's an MSD dist.? Or because it's an Edelbrock manifold?
Your mileage may vary...

 

[YY1]

...after you mark it with a sharpie

 

[ScampMike]

No need to pull the distributor, but you will have much more room having the distributor,wires, out of the way.

Put your motor at tdc (top dead center).
With the cap off, the rotor should be facing the no.1 cylinder.
Unbolt the distributor hold down, and pull out distributor.
Simple stuff.

View attachment 1715283253

yeah, you don't HAVE to pull the distributor - but it sure is easier having it out of the way - and even if you happen to put in back in 180 degrees off, you'll know it right away

 

[Garrett Ellison]

No need to pull the distributor, but you will have much more room having the distributor,wires, out ofhe way.

Put your motor at tdc (top dead center).
With the cap off, the rotor should be facing the no.1 cylinder.
Unbolt the distributor hold down, and pull out distributor.
Simple stuff.

View attachment 1715283253

Yes, the valve covers will get in the way. I just pull the wires and lay over to the sides and throw some masking tape over terminals, I don't like having an engine open anymore underhood than I have to underhood. You can use pieces of tire weight to do this, but I really recommend this little bit of advice from Hughes engines.
http://www.hughesengines.com/Upload/TechArticles/INTAKE_MANIFOLD_SEALINGJULY2015.pdf
It may save you some serious headaches down the road, you would be surprise at how few intakes really adequately seal on even a stock engine. Small block Mopars are one of the worst for this.

 

[toolmanmike]

No need to pull the distributor, but you will have much more room having the distributor,wires, out of the way.

Put your motor at tdc (top dead center).
With the cap off, the rotor should be facing the no.1 cylinder.
Unbolt the distributor hold down, and pull out distributor.
Simple stuff.

View attachment 1715283253

You betcha' as long as the last guy in there put the distributor drive gear in the correct place. LOL (nothing is simple is it)

 

[Johnny Dart]

You betcha' as long as the last guy in there put the distributor drive gear in the correct place. LOL (nothing is simple is it)

Just happy I have avoided the dreaded Red X, to this point.

 

[RedFish]

To everyone that says you "do not" need to take the dist. out: I just found that the rear-left manifold bolt was impossible to get out with the dist. in the way. Maybe because it's an MSD dist.? Or because it's an Edelbrock manifold?
Your mileage may vary...

I've got this distributor wrench. Its 2 wrenches put together with a square drive coupling in middle. One end of It works fine torqueing a difficult to access intake bolt as well as a few others. "Impossible" varies with what tools you have.

 

[Garrett Ellison]

You betcha' as long as the last guy in there put the distributor drive gear in the correct place. LOL (nothing is simple is it)

I index to number one TDC if I pull the distributor but just out of habit in case I have a screw up, But as trailbeast has noted, if you don’t have to turn the over while the distributor is out and you mark the rotor position, you can just drop it in like it was with zero problems.

 

[toolmanmike]

I've got this distributor wrench. Its 2 wrenches put together with a square drive coupling in middle. One end of It works fine torqueing a difficult to access intake bolt as well as a few others. "Impossible" varies with what tools you have.

Perfect tool. Great tool tip Redfish! KD still makes them. KDS104
Less than $20.00.

 

[dukeboy440]

To everyone that says you "do not" need to take the dist. out: I just found that the rear-left manifold bolt was impossible to get out with the dist. in the way. Maybe because it's an MSD dist.? Or because it's an Edelbrock manifold?
Your mileage may vary...

never had an issue getting that out. Whether factory or Eddy intake that's on my 408...

 

[rumblefish360]

To everyone that says you "do not" need to take the dist. out: I just found that the rear-left manifold bolt was impossible to get out with the dist. in the way. Maybe because it's an MSD dist.? Or because it's an Edelbrock manifold?
Your mileage may vary...

I don’t know what you were doing on your engine or how you couldn’t do it. You must have triple size Gorilla hands or something.

I have never, NEVER EVER needed to pull, move, remove the cap, twist, curse or dance to swap an intake with the distributor right where it is supposed to be.

Stock distributor, MSD, the crazy big fat GM looking unit. Good freaking GOD people!

You do not even have to touch the freakin distributor to swap an intake!