Help needed to identify these headers

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You need a hooker parts book from the 60’s and 70’s. You find them pop up on eBay occasionally. Good read to have around anyway.
 
It's a hooker part number. They fit 2nd generation hemi.
 
Thanks for the replies! So, if I'm reading the thread 340Demon provided correctly, these are 1.875 pri tubes, fit B & C bodies & require manual steering? The suggestion by ch1II to get my hands on an old parts manual seems like the only way to get something definitive. FWIW, For what this fellow is asking for his 60's original Hookers, I'm miles ahead with a set of TTIs that will likely have better fit/minimal leaks, improved header clearance, brighter shine, & longer header life. Just trying to do my due diligence. I appreciate ya!
 
Thanks for the replies! So, if I'm reading the thread 340Demon provided correctly, these are 1.875 pri tubes, fit B & C bodies & require manual steering? The suggestion by ch1II to get my hands on an old parts manual seems like the only way to get something definitive. FWIW, For what this fellow is asking for his 60's original Hookers, I'm miles ahead with a set of TTIs that will likely have better fit/minimal leaks, improved header clearance, brighter shine, & longer header life. Just trying to do my due diligence. I appreciate ya!
TTi would be the way I would go, they’re less money, higher quality and a better fit.
 
They are Hooker A body A 68 barracuda for sure had them on and off A thousand times when I raced SS mine were 2 1/4
 
Yes if I remember right mine were 4 inch collector I had no power anything (race car) still have the extensions need to get rid of sold a new set about 3 years ago for 700 2inch absolute smallest for a Hemi seen 2 1/8 and 2 1/4 but never 2 inch
 
Looking closely at the pictures provided in the listing by the seller, I could be persuaded the pri tubes are 2" based on the mic of the OD. However, the tape measure across the collector is well short of 3" - nothing close to the 4" of your prior set. I did find an old Hooker catalog from 1977 on eBay but I'm not $125 curious. I've got a set of the big tube, 4" collectors for a B/E body car but I'm building a clone of a SS Hemi Dart. I briefly considered cutting & modifying the B/E headers (like a good hotrodder!) to get what I need but figure it's easier to get some TTIs and move on to the next part of the build. Thanks for your knowledge!
 
TTi would be the way I would go, they’re less money, higher quality and a better fit.

No, they aren’t better. And they make less power.

That is a set of RACE Hooker headers. If I needed a set of headers for a Hemi and I had a choice of those Hookers or TTI’s I’d pay for the Hookers even if the TTI’s were free.
 
RB, Thanks for the insight. Why the Hookers over TTIs? How much of a power difference? Any other reason(s)? Any concern over the smallish collector on the Hookers - or does that work in the Hemi's favor?
 
No, they aren’t better. And they make less power.

That is a set of RACE Hooker headers. If I needed a set of headers for a Hemi and I had a choice of those Hookers or TTI’s I’d pay for the Hookers even if the TTI’s were free.
I don’t give a rats *** if they’re race headers or not, if they don’t fit, they don’t fit. I had my share of Hooker headers back in the day.
 
I don’t give a rats *** if they’re race headers or not, if they don’t fit, they don’t fit. I had my share of Hooker headers back in the day.

And…that’s my point. Just like Hedman headers, Hooker had different product lines.

If you weren’t spending 600-800 bucks for headers in the mid 1980’s you were buying the lower line of headers.

The quality and fit of the race line of headers from both Hedman (Hustler) and Hooker (Competition RACE) are light years ahead of the rest of their line of headers.

And yes, I ran race headers on the street. Still do. They fit better and make more power. But they aren’t cheap.
 
RB, Thanks for the insight. Why the Hookers over TTIs? How much of a power difference? Any other reason(s)? Any concern over the smallish collector on the Hookers - or does that work in the Hemi's favor?

Im not sure why the collectors are that small on those headers, but a big collector doesn’t always mean more power.

I bought my first set of Hookers in 1980. Actually I bought two sets. One for me and one for a friend I was building a 318 for. And two Strip Dominators.

All the “experts” said the headers were too big (5204 Hookers) and that the SD wouldn’t make power until 5k plus.

Fortunately, the guy who was helping me plus my dad were 100% sure the ”experts” were wrong. And they were.

As for the TTI headers, they are designed more as a street header. They go on in one piece. That right there is a clue that too many compromises were made to make the header go on in one piece.

A good header is 4 pieces per side. The headers in your link are one piece so that bothers me a bit.

The collectors TTI uses are just weird. They have an odd shape to them.

The biggest issue I have with them outside of the above stuff is early last year I called TTI and supposedly got a hold of the owner. I wanted to know how long the primary tubes were on his 1 7/8 A body headers were. His answer was “I don’t know”!! WTF???

And he said we do not build headers with a specific primary tube length in mind, we build them with whatever the primary tube lengths need to be to get them to fit the car.

One thing I’ve learned (two actually) about headers is primary tube diameter and length go hand in hand.

If you are using a relatively small primary tube (say 1 5/8 or even 1 3/4) the tubes need to be relatively long. Like 36-40 inches long. A short, small diameter primary tube header will be a pig.

A bigger tube header (say 1 7/8 and up) needs a shorter tube length. Say 28-32 inches. Bigger primary tubes that are long will kill power everywhere.

There is a relationship there between primary tube diameter and length but I have yet to find the math to explain it or at least get you a ball park for how it should be.

The other thing about headers, making power and the header actually making a change is the Lobe Separation Angle of the cam.

If the LSA is right or a bit on the narrow side for the APPLICATION a tuned header will always show a nice power increase.

Get the LSA too wide for the APPLICATION and and you can bet all you have and a lot of stuff you don’t have that the header won’t make a pinch of crap difference.

I know this from doing this crap for a long time. But Billy Godbold (formerly of Comp Cams) said in a magazine interview that LSA and header performance do go hand in hand.

I kept a copy of that interview because some guys think LSA doesn’t matter, but it does matter and it matters in more ways than one.
 
The guy that bought mine was also building a clone also race headers don't have bolt flange for collector mine anyway form the day keep looking for an old set
 
Thanks fellas, you've given me a lot to chew on. I guess I've got to do some more research.
 
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