HELP. Pressing Ball Joints Back In (Pictures added)

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ADHD426

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When I press the ball joints back in on my tie rods, control arms arms, and everything else is there an audible pop? I am using the loan a tool press/clamp contraption from Autozone. How much should I torque the clamp down on the ball joint to press it in? I did a couple ball joints, and they fell out later when I was working on another, so obviously I didn't torque those enough. Any help would be appreciated!

Andrew

Update: I am not crying. :) So I am pretty sure this is a case of my mistaken terminology, and a migrane! My ball joints are threaded, and already threaded on, I am talking about the other end of that ball joint with the castle nut, that connects to the spindle. Basically I am talking about all the parts where there are castle nuts. Those are pressed in correct? Such as the following:






 
ADHD426 said:
When I press the ball joints back in on my tie rods, control arms arms, and everything else is there an audible pop? I am using the loan a tool press/clamp contraption from Autozone. How much should I torque the clamp down on the ball joint to press it in? I did a couple ball joints, and they fell out later when I was working on another, so obviously I didn't torque those enough. Any help would be appreciated!

Andrew
Click to expand...


the upper ball joints thread in!!!!!!!!!!!!! they do not press in. if your pressing them in you ruined your control arms.
 
Yeh, X100. And whut are ya workin on, because you don't press ball joints in on tie rod ends, either, "everything else."
 
Wow!
What the other posters said is true.
Before you go any further, get a factory service manual........
 
dammit man! how ironic autozone even rents the socket you need to screw the ball joint out my heart goes out to you buddy!:banghead:
 
I dont know what to say or how to help you.................
 
What year A body car are you working on anyway?
If your working on a 73-76 A body, and want to replace the upper control arms, i will be listing a pair for sale, tomorrow sometime.
Right now they are soaking in a pail of Evaporust, to bring them back to new metal looking condition.
PM me if you want.
Jim V.
 
So I am pretty sure this is a case of my mistaken terminology. My ball joints are threaded, and already threaded on, I am talking about the other end of that ball joint with the castle nut, that connects to the spindle. Basically I am talking about all the parts where there are castle nuts. Those are pressed in correct? Such as the following:





 
Just tighten up the castle nut and put the cotter pin in. They are a tapered fit so there is no need to press them in.
 
That tapered pin is drawn into the spindle by the castle nut. The same as the pitman and idler arms. Don't forget to use the cotter pins. I don't know the torque specs but someone here will have it.
 
I would hand wrench,as tight as you can. That taper needs to seat,ball joint to hole. Tight all the way,back off a flat. (Install cotter pin,spread it). I've used this 25 + years,I'm still alive. Just completely, seat the tapers. Do the cotter pin ,correctly.
 
Please read my post no7. You just insert the tapered stud, thread on the nut. There is a torque spec in the shop manual.

Yes, "WHEW"
 
Always good to buy a manual. They have step by step directions and pics to go with. Then you can ask here what isn't clear...
 
There IS a torque spec for castellated nuts. However, you can rarely get the slots in the nut to line up with the cotter pin hole in the stud, so, what you do is, torque them to the proper spec, then, if the slot is not aligned, simply tighten the nut to the next slot and line it up and install the cotter pin. NEVER under ANY circumstances loosen the nut to align the slots. Always tighten to align. It will be a little over torqued, but will not loosen up.
 
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