HELP - Where to mount fuel pump..?!

[Old Country]

Advice & pics if possible:
Car: 1972 Duster, 408 Stroker, solid cam, six-pack (450+ hp)

Situation: I'm completely replacing/updating my fuel supply setup...ie: trashing stock 5/16" lines, Holley Black pump, dead-head Holley Reg to 5/16" lines to the six-pack. Pump is LOUD, mounted all wrong (above the tank & horizontal)... the entire system is chocked, and robbing power. This is how I bought this project.

Upgrade: Installing new Mallory Comp 140 pump, moving to 3/8" lines, 3/8" tank pickup, good fittings (no brass crap), Bypass Reg with a 3/8" return line, 3/8" to the carbs....plus a filter before the pump and an in-line filter between the Reg & the carbs. (this is a street car with sub 500 hp)

QUESTION: I know the pump must be mounted vertically, and BELOW the fuel source ala gravity feed to the pump...but I'll be danged if I can see a way or place to mount it without the rearend possibly contacting it or the exhaust cooking it AND the canister filter setup..... all very tight between that rear & tank face (stock tank). >>> H E L P !!!

I'm no rookie to the car dance we all enjoy... but have not had such a tight area to deal with before. Obviously loads of you guys have done this on a Duster... could you please share what you did, how you mounted the filter & pump and (if onhand) share pics...? Whatever you share would be GREATLY appreciated.

Reviewing numerous threads in FABO, and other muscle car sites, I decided the Mallory Comp 140 is the best fit for my needs. I queried FABO a number of days ago on replacement pump 'advice' (post is still here) and was bascially ignored, which surprised me :angry3:

Here's hoping I find some kindred spirits this time willing to help on this one, cuz folks I'm pretty stuck. :scratch:

 

[crackedback]

I'm in the same spot with a 70 Dart.

Yes it's tight. I'll probably make a bracket that drops off the shock upper mount stud or find another spot to drop a bracket on the pass side. You can get it in there with some planning.

 

[brywatz]

I'm also having the same problem (with a '69 barracuda though) and was looking for some advice. I saw that someone mounted the pump in the torque box in front of the pass side rear wheel. It looks do-able but I feel like it hangs slightly too low. Then still have to deal with the cannister filter. There must be guys with pictures and advice here right? Thanks.

 

[dustoff440]

I'm in the same spot with a 70 Dart.

Yes it's tight. I'll probably make a bracket that drops off the shock upper mount stud or find another spot to drop a bracket on the pass side. You can get it in there with some planning.

Please post pics when you do. I'm also ready to do a elec. fuel pump. on my 70 Dart

 

[Old Country]

Thx for the responses, guys.
It's strange that this question has brought so few... as it appears I'm not the only one with the same question. I'll (we'll) figure it out. I'm told that mechanical pumps (like the electric) don't 'suck' fuel either, thus if they're gravity fed too, how the hell does that work..?...ie: fuel source lower than the pump (= gravity fed) BUTthe pump is in the engine well on the engine, above and well forward of the tank? How does my Holley Black pump get fuel, since it's mounted above the rearend and well ABOVE the gas tank. Gravity fed..!!? I'm confused.

Whatever I do, I'll flip some pics in here...maybe be the first one to ever do it in the history of FABO! Or so the lack of responses here would indicate.:banghead:

Thx all ~

 

[1970Duster]

There is a member here that post a picture of mounting the pump on the drivers side rear frame rail right next to the tank. The tank and a sump in it (I think that's what he stated), that being said I can't remember how he plumbed his exhaust though. Either way it was a really clean setup.

 

[crackedback]

A mechanical style pump, like mounted on the engine is designed to pull fuel from the tank via suction.

An electric vane/gerotor pump DO NOT do when when having to pull/suck fuel. They are much better at pushing fuel. Thus, you should mount it near the tank and low in relation to the tank. Most electric can pull fuel uphill but not what they do best.

 

[daredevil]

mine pulls it uphill but always has a prime off the filter cannister

 

[rednesss]

How noisy is that setup? There doesn't appear to be any rubber mounts or anything to dampen vibrations.

 

[pettybludart]

How noisy is that setup? There doesn't appear to be any rubber mounts or anything to dampen vibrations.

Yep.Pete,time to take it all off and get some rubber in there to help quiet it down and less vibration.LOL.You,ll be glad you did.I,m in the same boat with mounting lower than my tank/sump,it,s gonna look goofy hangin low,but gotta do what ya gotta do for speed.;-)

 

[BillGrissom]

I know some will lambast my approach since goes against manufacturer's advice, but has worked fine for >10 years (daily driver some years). This is in my 65 Newport, but plan same for my 65 Dart. I am using a Holley gearotor pump that came with their Pro-jection throttle body system. It is in the fwd engine bay at the level of the original fuel line.

Not a peep from it except if the gas gets low and sloshes (a pickup well like newer cars would fix that). If the suction side ever gets restricted and cavitates or if it sucks air, you know because it makes a groaning noise. I know because I failed a pump early on when mounted low in front of the rear axle (as recommended) and it was restricted too much by a filter (long story). You can hear it with the engine off (comforting before starting), but not with the engine running. I mounted it w/ rubber washers.

Prior to the current setup, I tried many things like a separate boost pump near the tank with the gearotor pump in the engine bay. A little pulse type booster (for carbs) didn't flow enough and starved the gearotor pump. A Holley radial-vane pump (like daredevil's) worked fine as a booster. Indeed, I later used that alone in the engine bay (w/ high-pressure relief spring), until the body leaked (porous aluminum).

The boost pump setup was only because they say to never mount the pump far from the tank. However, it was a pain getting under there to access the pump and I would hate to do so on the side of the road. The Newport has a nice area in front of the leaf spring perch, but still not as accessible and protected as the engine bay. Anyway, I noticed that fuel poured out of the 5/16" tubing quite fast under gravity, so didn't understand how not enough volume, so dropped the boost pump. I have just a carb-style "rock-catcher" filter in the rear. I will run a 3/8" supply line in my Dart and use the original 5/16" one for return (planned for Newport too). Maybe NOx drag racers need >3/8". I know a bit about fluid flow, and don't think a straight 5' length of tubing to get you to the engine bay adds appreciable restriction to what you get from the in-tank sock, hoses, and bends. You could get a bucket and stop watch and run some tests (don't smoke).

Beside the Holley gearotor and radial-vane pumps, I have also used a standard high-pressure external pump - many brands but look identical, just ask for a "Ford truck external pump ~1990" at auto parts. The Pro-jection needs 20 psi, but these pumps work at any outlet pressure to 60 psi (exc. radial-vane), so should work for anything from a carb to MPI. They output a volumetric flow, so you must have a return regulator (integral to Holley's throttle body). Not my choice for use w/ a carb, but I keep a carb in the trunk in case the Pro-jection fails.

 

[daredevil]

cannot hear it when motors running and i like to hear it prime.theres rubber between the bracket and trunk floor.