Help with holley 600

[DRVDuster]

Hello all, I have a problem with my carb, it was totally rebuild and tuned but I can´t get it to run right, keeps getting flooded, any thoughts on how can I solve this??

 

[Bulldozer]

your float level is too high, or the needle(s) are stuck in the seat. what fuel pump/pressure are you running? 5.5-6 pounds is what the carbs run best at. sounds like the bowls need to come off and the float drop set if you cant adjust them externally

 

[memike]

Make sure your choke is wide open and like said in the post before me, start your engine and make sure it is not dumping gas after you shut it off.
What engine are you running? some one may have put bigger jets in it and flowing way to much gas for your engine.

 

[DRVDuster]

Make sure your choke is wide open and like said in the post before me, start your engine and make sure it is not dumping gas after you shut it off.
What engine are you running? some one may have put bigger jets in it and flowing way to much gas for your engine.

It is on a 318, waht jet size is recommended?

 

[Bulldozer]

if it is dumping gas and you can visually see it dripping out of the boosters , its not going to have anything to do with the jets unless there arent any in it. the float bowl(s) are overfilling with gas. i literally have 5 of these 600's laying around and i use one on my 360 , all with various size jetting and 90% of the time when they flood they flood because of the float setting or crap between the needle and seats, or excessive fuel pressure

 

[memike]

Do you have a double pump 600 ? or single

[ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ge-mIk6nEYQ&feature=related"]Fuel Level & Float Adjustment - YouTube[/ame]

 

[Bulldozer]

Do you have a double pump 600 ? or single

thats a great video Mike. most factory 600's are vacuum secondary , single feed and the bowls have to be taken off to set the floats, but i have seen a number of them that allow external float adjustments. i have a few of each. i have also swapped the bowls back and forth so that whatever 600 im using has the external adjustment. these are really good carbs when they are set up right.

 

[memike]

Yes! and thank you , Mine has been good to me and have never had to do anything to it.
(knock on wood) Mine is the 390 dp. It's been running great for 4 years now

 

[Bulldozer]

Yes! and thank you , Mine has been good to me and have never had to do anything to it.
(knock on wood) Mine is the 390 dp. It's been running great for 4 years now

bet that 390 really scoots your 170 :cheers: the 600's are perfect for stock to mild performance small blocks ... much better response and top end over the eddys...in my experience...

 

[67Dart273]

Don't forget defective/ leaky power valves

 

[memike]

Don't forget defective/ leaky power valves

There we go :cheers: Yes, and all it takes is a back fire to turn a good power valve to a bad one, Thank you 67Dart273, so true, I am remembering more as the day gets started :coffee2:

 

[Bulldozer]

LIST # CFM STOCK JETTING POWER VALVE TYPE Secondaries
1850-2 600 (F)66,(R)plate 134-9 6.5 4160
1850-3 600 (F)66,(R)plate 134-9 6.5 4160
1850-4 600 (F)66,(R)plate 134-9 6.5 4160
2818-1 600 (F)65,(R)76 6.5 4150
3124 750 (F)70,(R)76 8.5,8.5 4150
3247 750 (F)70,(R)76 8.5,8.5 4150
------------------------------------------------------------

Holley carbs are calibrated for sea level operation and an inlet air temperature of 70 degrees Fahrenheit. Once you know the correct stock jetting for your particular Holley carb, you can determine whether you live or race at an altitude above sea level. For every 2000 foot increase in altitude, you can reduce the jet size by one size. If you had a carb which has a stock jet size of 80 and you live or race at 2000 feet above sea level, then you would use a #79 Holley jet in the carb. Similarly, a change in the carb's inlet air temperature may require a change in the jet size from the stock calibration.

There is a lot of misunderstanding concerning power valves in Holley carbs. Many 4-barrels come with a particular power valve depending on the carb list# and application. Some carbs have two power valves, while others only have one. The power valves are numbered by the amount of engine vacuum in inches at which they will open and add additional fuel to the power circuit. In other words a 6.5 power valve will open when the vacuum signal on the engine drops below 6.5" and will remain closed above that amount. One of the misconceptions is that they can't be trusted to work because an engine backfire or "belch" can "blow out" the power valve. Many Holley performance carbs models and list#'s now come with built in power valve "blow out" protection which eliminates this problem. If you have an older model carb you can purchase a small, inexpensive, easy to install kit from Holley (PN - 125-500) that will also protect the power valves in case of an engine blowback thru the carb. CENTEK in Redmond, Oregon, (see their website at www.powervalveshield.com ) also sells an inexpensive Holley power valve blow out protector, "Power Valve Shield", which takes about two minutes to install and does not require any drilling

 

[Bulldozer]

tons more info here http://tgsperformance.com/holley.htm

 

[memike]

bet that 390 really scoots your 170 :cheers: the 600's are perfect for stock to mild performance small blocks ... much better response and top end over the eddys...in my experience...

It is a great match, I had Billy (Leanna's) man go threw it for me to make sure it has not been changed (larger) and put it back to Holley specs
I bolted it on my intake and set the idle and air (vacuum) and it's been perfect. 11.27 1/8 is not fast but better then a 14.20 1/8 mile time with the old little exhaust system and pea shooter, my MPG went up 7 mpg. after the update (electronic, split manifol, Holley 390 and 14'' tires

 

[DRVDuster]

thanks for your replies, I will check that.

Is there anyway to tell if, besides what you mentioned, is something wrong (mechanically) with the carb?

 

[crackedback]

Same as always for me. Initial timing?

This thing a stock 318 or does it have a bigger camshaft than stock?

See if it's dripping in the bores. Fix that issue. Float level, sunk float, trash in needle/seat.

Do not mess with the jetting until you figure out why it's flooding.

 

[Bulldozer]

thanks for your replies, I will check that.

Is there anyway to tell if, besides what you mentioned, is something wrong (mechanically) with the carb?

what do you mean? like a cracked bowl or body? leaking throttle shaft(s)?

 

[DRVDuster]

what do you mean? like a cracked bowl or body? leaking throttle shaft(s)?

Yes, something that will end in replacing the carb

 

[tekslk]

I used to get dirt all the time inmy needle and seat I would take air blow it out and good for a couple more hundred, finnally changed gas tanks andit fixed the problem, The 600 is a great carb on a 318.

 

[pishta]

If you have the carb off, take the bowls off and turn them upside down. If the float drops to the bottom (actually the top of the bowls) then you need to adjust. The floats need to stop against the seat so a pencil can be slid between the bottom (top) of the float and the bowl. If not, in the case of the cathedral or center hung bowls, loosen the slotted screw and turn the nut clockwise (tighten) then secure with the tightened scew. Side hungs probably the same. but they pivot on the side. When you get it running at a warm idle, attempt the dangerous method of adjusting floats when the car is running, nice and hot and vibrating.....remove float sight screw and adjust squirting adjuster so the fuel just barely runs out the sight hole onto your hot intake. Bring a fire extinguisher...Or if you got an electric pump, damn the running motor and just adjust it while there is fuel pressure. This is THE most important adjustment in a carb as it sets the baseline for all other adjustments. low floats generally run lean, high floats generally run rich.