MOPAROFFICIAL
Oogliboogli
I think I have the Schneider .420 used in a box down in the garage somewhere... I found it in a core motor that tossed a rod. Cam was cherry though...so I kept it.
[WANTED] Help with Solid Cam?
- Thread starter eekvonzipper
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Thanks Triple R! Oh, it just looks a bit Pitted to me, much like my Main Main Bearings did and the Inside of My Oil Pump and the Rod Bearings too...
Whaddayou think? Put it back in and Send it?
Hit it with some #400 emery cloth and mineral spirits if it scares you and run it.
Lemme Know on That!
MOPAROFFICIAL
Oogliboogli
That cam is toast.
Throw it away. It would eat the lifters in no time.
It's already into the casting.
It's got alot of Burnt-On Oil all over it... I think that's what your seeing. It might Clean-up?
Clean it up, measure it, and run it unless something is out of whack but knowing that it might fail and ruin a bunch of stuff you just freshened. Just sayin'.
MOPAROFFICIAL
Oogliboogli
Closer pics of the lobes for a final verdict.
If you see shiny across the entire lobe... its supposed to be on one side 'think spinning lifters'...and little spots...its worn the hardened surface and into the casting.
MOPAROFFICIAL
Oogliboogli
When a company regrinds a cam do they harden the lobes somehow?
MOPAROFFICIAL
Oogliboogli
Absolutely. Reparkerised n all.
They actually offer individual services such as regrinds,parkerising,edging..n on n on
That stock cam is the one that chewed up the cam bearings you had to change isn’t it?
Any thoughts how a stock two barrel 360 cam would work toward the overall goal?
Spec's .410/.412 - 252 / 256 - 111 LSA
Spec's .410/.412 - 252 / 256 - 111 LSA
Yeah, not willing to risk my build with Hydraulic Lifters tho... unless they were N.O.S. from the 70's.
And if MoparOfficial comes thru with the Schneider Solid Cam this conversation will finally be over!
And if MoparOfficial comes thru with the Schneider Solid Cam this conversation will finally be over!
Remember though, when looking at the wear pattern, the pattern WILL widen up some when coming up to the peak of the lobe. I agree about cleaning it up and measuring. The last thing you need is another failure of any kind.
Let @MOPAROFFICIAL help you out. He seems willing. That's what all the guys say. LOL
Anyway, lookin at it again, it ain't worth a crap. Throw that sumbitch away. See the yellow "circle".
Anyway, lookin at it again, it ain't worth a crap. Throw that sumbitch away. See the yellow "circle".
Agree, ask for the old Isky E4 grind for the 273. It is slightly bigger Than the stock 273 4 barrel cam.
ISKY
Grind No./Type
E-4 SOLID Tremendous torque & good mid-range power. 9-10.5
1 compr. good idle stock converter. 3.23-3.70 axle ratio. Up to 625 CFM Carb. RPM-Range
2000-5500 Valve Lift - INT
.425 EXT
.425 Valve Lash Hot -
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MOPAROFFICIAL
Oogliboogli
Schneider .468 lift and only 214 256 dur for the lower compression will leave more cyl pressure intact for more snap/tq .
Any Luck Finding that Used One Man?
MOPAROFFICIAL
Oogliboogli
No not yet. I worked the grinder today.
Come to think of it...it was the hyd 256
.420 204 256
[email protected] is about the max for a drop in good performance match for the stock convertor n gears. It get soggy after that...or peaky if you move lsa around.. then the idle get choppy.
In your case , for power , you want .450 lift after lash..that's where the heads start peaking or get near it.
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gonna go stick my head in the toilet now...
dartfreak75
Restore it, Dont part it!
Imo and some may disagree but I think your best bet would be to get some luniti microtrol hyd lifters and a luniti voodoo 700 or 701 cam. Or talk talk to Oregon and see if your cam can be reground. Any of the solid camshafts are gonna be expensive and hard to get.
How do you find the Find the Lift and Separation with the Cam in one hand and a Mic or Caliper in the other hand?
Oregon will regrind that core for 89 bucks, or sell you one outright if you don't wanna pay shippin both ways for under 200. You can call Ken and ask him about a good pick for a grind. Just remember if you go with a hydraulic, they take different length pushrods. I would stay solid. JMO.
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