Hester puked her guts

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grumpuscreature

grumpuscreature

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Yesterday a very sad thing happened. Hester (my '66 Valiant) spit the number 5 rod out of the oil pan. This is after spending the last 2 months getting a new clutch and a working tranny installed (1 clutch swap, 2 tranny swaps). It could be worse, at least all I have to do is decide which engine to roll out of the garage and install. I have a stock '73 225 and a massively overbored and stroked '64 slant (286 inches)to choose from. I have the parts to do either installation but I am leaning toward the stocker just to get her back on the road with minimum worries. I'm thinking the stroker may run a tad hot since there is only .030" between the sleeves in the block at the closest spacing. Guess that's life. :angry7:
 
dang. hate it when a slant dies. you'll get it fixed.
 
Now that just sucks. Good luck getting her back on the road.....
 
hey, if you need a good runner, with perfect trans, i have for FREE a /6 and trans out of the scamp i am redoing. plus, i do not think you are that far
 
Good luck with whichever engine you decide on Grumps. I didn't think it was possible to kill a leaning tower of power.

Jack
 
Does it look like this..............


P1030655.jpg
 
JB Weld will fix the block..........

Save the duct tape for the rest of the car.


P1030659.jpg
 
grumpuscreature said:
Yesterday a very sad thing happened. Hester (my '66 Valiant) spit the number 5 rod out of the oil pan. This is after spending the last 2 months getting a new clutch and a working tranny installed (1 clutch swap, 2 tranny swaps). It could be worse, at least all I have to do is decide which engine to roll out of the garage and install. I have a stock '73 225 and a massively overbored and stroked '64 slant (286 inches)to choose from. I have the parts to do either installation but I am leaning toward the stocker just to get her back on the road with minimum worries. I'm thinking the stroker may run a tad hot since there is only .030" between the sleeves in the block at the closest spacing. Guess that's life. :angry7:
Click to expand...


u got my attention... what is this...
 
slantscamp said:
its always the #5 rod.
Click to expand...

Back in the late 70's I had a discussion with Larry Sheppard (Chrys performance engineer) about that. He told me "it is not an inherrent problem with the motor. You are doing something wrong, building it". Yeah, right. Since I have been using full groove main bearings I have had zero bearing problems.
 
Guess that's life :angry7:

Man I here that David :angry7: We all have them some time's.
It could be worse they say :angry7:, but at some times it's hard to even think it could be worse.
At least your trans is ready to go. I know that was not fun.
Did a cold start and take off contribute to this happening or was it knocking ?
 
Yeah, I'm going with the stocker since I think I can trust it, but who knows? I may be able to save the block since there are no visible holes in it. The bottom of the oil pan is a different story though. Must have been a weak one. :toothy10:
 
grumpuscreature said:
Yeah, I'm going with the stocker since I think I can trust it, but who knows? I may be able to save the block since there are no visible holes in it. The bottom of the oil pan is a different story though. Must have been a weak one. :toothy10:
Click to expand...

what di u do for a head gasket on the stroker?? and did u have the motor built?
 
Did it though a rod cap yea think and let a rod hit it ?
 
memike, It's hard to tell since the engine is still in the car. All I know is there is about a 4 inch hole in the bottom of the oil pan. :angry7:

805, What do you mean "did I have it built"? The machine shop did the sleeving and balancing, but I put everything together. If you want to try it yourself go back to the PM I sent you and add one important detail. The bottoms of the sleeves are an interference fit in a .125" deep counterbore and I poured 1/2" of block rock in the water jackets. The finished bore size is 3.7" and the outer diameter of the sleeves is 3.95". They should be plenty strong enough since they are the same thickness and material as Top Fuel engine sleeves. I got the head gasket from Cox Brothers and it is .040" compressed thickness copper.
 
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