Hey guy, frame opinion...

[BoredandStroked]

Now I know this is going to sound totally werid since most of you know me as the kid, but I got a job at a welding/machine shop. Here is my idea and I would like your alls opinions and such, good or bad.

My frame is well, non-existing due to it having so much cancer and rust. So, since I need to replace the floorpans, and I can use any scarp metal we have left over from some jobs (ALOT) why not build my own frame. Taking measurements from whats left of my existing frame, and building it from there.

Now here is the downs and ups from this that I see.
Downs; long time to complete, could be a waste of time, and some money (not much but yea) and my boss yelling at me lol.
Ups; improve my welding skills, would have a sweet frame, money and time spent well if done correct and boss and co workers begging for a ride in it.

This is just an idea and I know there is alot of bad things that can happen, but just an idea. So whats are your opinions on this besides, ' this kid comes up with the crazyest ideas sometimes'. Haha, Thanks for reading guys.

 

[RPM]

Clint.
Go for it. Just make sure the frame is as beefy as the factory one and keep things straight. Dont use 1/2" sheet metal for the floor boards and you will be allright... ;)

-RPM

 

[65s]

I'm no expert.....

I think it's doable but would be a lot of work! For $75 I purchased a whole front frame section from a yard. Not too many hours later it's resting under the car, welded in like nothing ever happened! It's like it was always there, part of the car. You'd be better spending your time doing that, than making a frame from scratch...just my opinion.

See the frame transplant here -> http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=15895

 

[HemiPar]

boredandstroked. I hate to be the bearer of the news but I have seen it done before. I think it was in hot rod mag a few months ago. but the car was a 71 Cuda. and done by the pros. but as long as you got the time, money and curage I say go for it. if it were mine I would just replace the frame and tie it together with frame conectors. but then maybe I am just chicken shehit to do it myself. jus my .02 worth
Jeff

 

[70dart]

Go for it sounds like a decent plan as long as the scrap metal isn't super small pieces. Let me know how you make out. The 75$ front end sounds good to, but they are few and far between from my experiences. It cost be over 700 to get rear frame assembly delivered to my door so you are definately saving some bucks!

 

[BoredandStroked]

Haha, well first off I am glad you are all backing me up with this.

Second, Hemipar you arent a whimp by any means, I do see how you see it. Pros know what they are doing and I am just making a copy of the original frame. I would just do the same as 65s, if only I had a wrecking/junk yard near me that had a Dart. A place does but the frame is in just as bad as shape as the one I got now.

70dart said it in one sentence, 700 bucks for rear frame assembly to his door. The local chassis shop gave me a price quote of 2000 dollars plus I would be on a waiting list.

We dont deal with short or thin metals that often so me picking up pieces is easy. I was thinking 3/16 thick for the frame and 16 gague sheet metal for the floor boards or just aluminum for the floor, still deciding on that. Plus we have the nesscesary pipe benders and piping for a roll cage so I will talk to the boss on that as well.

 

[70dart]

3/16 that's a thick frame way thicker than stock, original was probably less then 1/8. Stronger is good but it also weighs more. Atleast you have access to the equipment to make it all possible keeping expenses minimized by not having to purchase!! Let me know how you make out!

 

[ThogtheCaveman]

Wow, good luck with this. I hope it turns out good. Just remember, take your time, measure everything twice, and don't take the easy way out on anything. If you do this, I am sure that it will come out great. I also commend you for taking this task on. Good luck! :thumbup:

 

[BoredandStroked]

I thought it was thick but wasnt sure, so thats why I asked. So thank you for the info 70dart. I will post pics from start to end with this so everyone can see. However I am not starting it until spring (late march or early april) due to the weather being horrible where I live.

 

[HemiPar]

Bored, if I lived closer to ya, I would let you have front frame for REAL cheap. I have a 74 Dart that I will part out. Hell, I will even have the rear frame if needed.
Jeff

 

[BoredandStroked]

Where in Kentucky are you? I have to go down near the boarder of West Virginia and Kentucky March 30th-31st. Wouldnt mind picking it up then. Thanks man! You might have saved me some work!

 

[HemiPar]

Well, I live in western KY. the only problem is that iit is still on the car. Me being new at this unibody stuff, i have not taken one off before and not sure how long or what needs to be done. my e-mail is powrdog@bellsouth.net drop me a line and Im sure we can work something out.
Jeff

 

[Jims71duster]

why use scrap steel?? I bought a 4x4 sheet of 10ga. for 60 bux and that was enough to do both my front frames, rear frames and torque boxes

 

[BJS racing]

if you use 2X3 square tubing you should only need .083 wall and I would use that to also tie back into the rockers. I would also go ahead and put some frame connectors in while I was doing all the rest. You will be thankful. You can get a look at what I am doing to my car right now. If you follow the link posted. I am posting a progress thread on the Painless Performance forum.

http://www.painlessperformance.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=119

I went to start welding this weekend and my welder took a crap on me so that has put my progress on hold.

 

[BoredandStroked]

Scrap steel as in box square tubing, like BJS racing was talking about. Also thank you BJS racing for the info!

I will email you later on today HemiPar, its 2 months away and I am sure if you ask some people around here they will be able to give you the needed info. I am sure we can work something out!

 

[zoltan c]

I was grappling with all the same questions as you. What do I do about my rusted frame. Frame caps from Auto Rust technicians is about $500 US plus shipping, taxes and exchange rate (I'm in Canada). Only problem too expensive. Next option is to have my Dad plasma cut the frame rails and fabricate them from scrach. He told me that if I can get him the measurements he can do them. He has 30 years of welding and fabricating experience. Problem with this is getting the templates right and you also have to weld in nuts for the K frame as well as for the bumper mounting. Too much trouble even for an experienced guy in my opinion. The third option is to get a donor car. Problem with this is they are hard to find. Then the Gods smiled on me yesterday! :angel9: I was going to have a look at a 68 Valiant to use the front subframe section, when I called a guy that I spoke to earlier in the week about the two 65 cudas they were parting out. He told me that the 68 sub frame won't fit but they are in the process of taking the two 65 barracudas apart and if I wanted anything come and get it quick. I went to see the cars and they had one down to a shell with the back window still in it. I bought the whole car for $400 with a good K member with the small 4piston caliper disc brake set up, as well as the frame rails in excellent shape and other bits and pieces. The car is getting delivered to my house today. (Now I must be a real mopar nut since I'm starting to collect parts I don't even need yet--ie the back window! But hey most guys that have a glassback cuda end up with a spare window, right?)
I'm going to take the front sub frame out and transplant it into my 65. It will be the cheapest and easyest way of doing it. I thought that a donor car would be impossible to find, and these guys found two in a field near here and they bought them for parts because they are building a 65 barracuda race car with a big block under the hood.

 

[Sparky]

Here is a question. How buggered up must the frame rail be to require replacement as opposed to just capping it? My dart needs some driver side front rail work but I am not sure if I should look at replacing the frame rail or cap it? Zoltan, is that 68 valiant front section still available, I think it will fit a 70 dart??

 

[BoredandStroked]

Well the area where the torsion bar section and frame rail intersect is completly gone in my case, also has holes in that rail too, the drive side is good but with out a passenger side what is it worth? Nothing in my opinon. Rear frame rails have a dozen holes in them due to the salt eating away at it. Re caping or double walling the frame is only nessicary (SP) if you are putting a powerful engine in it that can twist the chassis.

 

[zoltan c]

Here is a question. How buggered up must the frame rail be to require replacement as opposed to just capping it? My dart needs some driver side front rail work but I am not sure if I should look at replacing the frame rail or cap it? Zoltan, is that 68 valiant front section still available, I think it will fit a 70 dart??

The 68 Valiant sold last week. I check the classifieds almost everyday, if I see something for sale I'll post it for you.

 

[Sparky]

Thanks

 

[GT340]

Well the area where the torsion bar section and frame rail intersect is completly gone in my case, also has holes in that rail too, the drive side is good but with out a passenger side what is it worth? Nothing in my opinon. Rear frame rails have a dozen holes in them due to the salt eating away at it. Re caping or double walling the frame is only nessicary (SP) if you are putting a powerful engine in it that can twist the chassis.

Its only my opinion, but, in the long run I believe that it would be less expensive (not to mention safer) to buy a good donor car and build one car out of the two. Personally I wouldn't want to be driving down the road at around 70mph (or more... not that I do too often) and have my fabricated torsion bar anchors let loose or the rearend springs break away from fabricated perches (lawsuits and liability). Its great that you have the ambition and guts to attach the job, but, safety and liability should be a consideration.

I read somewhere on one of the MOPAR sites where recently someone from the USA was exporting a truck to Canada and wasn't allowed to because of suspension mods. Maybe you should also look/check with authorities if what you're planning on doing is legal before you spend anymore money or time

 

[SEbiscut]

I got an original "ebay ripoff" special! A 69 Formula S Fastback big 383 4spd that had "solid frame rails" from PA. When we got a good look underneath, it was full of cancer. Had to replace the entire front clip, firewall & all. Saved my radiator support w/ VIN. We have to replace the rear rails due to accident damage & found more rust had weakened the outer floor. I decided to move the rails in 2" on each side & add 2" to each inner fender well & will hopefully, get a 10" rim & 12" section width of tire completely inside w/ inches to spare. I plan to lower the Cuda & put Cal Track Mono Leafs & coil overs to hook it up.
Many said not to modify it, but in reality, what collector would buy a car that has had so much of it replaced due to rust?
Point is that a rusty car will always have that stigma attached to it. If I had it to do all over again, I'd sell the cuda as is & put the $40K into a solid car that is rust free. I couldn't bear to see this all original Formula S be scrapped or rebodied & my love for the rare Cudas overpowered any wisdom that was rollin around upstairs.
I got a rust free 70 T/A in the garage that I'm getting ready for paint. The $30K I've already got into the rusty Cuda would've finished the T/A.
I admire your zeal & wish you the best if you decide to tackle the project, but consider what the same money, labor & time could do w/ a rust free car.