CUDACOX
Well-Known Member
Just wondering what people recommend for water pumps.I try to keep everything stock looking,and my 68 discharges on the drivers side so not too many pumps out there.Standard or High volume? What do you think? Thanks.
High volume water pump?Yes/No
- Thread starter CUDACOX
- Start date
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I would go high volume. You can't have too much flow.
Too much flow won't hurt you, too little will....
Too much flow won't hurt you, too little will....
TrailBeast
AKA Mopars4us on Youtube
That's the way I look at it.
Especially for lower RPM stop and go stuff in the summer, like on a daily driver.
Mogre
Well-Known Member
Craig
I remember reading somewhere that with too much flow, the coolant does not have enough time in the rad to cool down. I think there is a thread on this in forbbodies only.
I remember reading somewhere that with too much flow, the coolant does not have enough time in the rad to cool down. I think there is a thread on this in forbbodies only.
71Scamper
Mopar runs thru my veins!
Correctomongo!
Having too much flow and not enough radiator to support it will cause the engine to overheat due to the fact that the radiator can't do it's job of absorbing the heat from the coolant to expel into the air. That's why taking your thermostat out completely will actually make your engine run hotter. Standard volume pumps are more than sufficient enough. You just want to be sure your getting the right pump for your application. There are 6 blade and 8 blade pumps. Depending upon if you have A/C or not will decide the blade count for your application. If there is an option for Heavy Duty (HD) then go for that. The HD pumps should not be mistaken for high volume, but instead, offer a heavier front bearing for longer life. Good Luck!
TrailBeast
AKA Mopars4us on Youtube
Keyword= "Thermostat"
No matter how much the pump pumps, the thermostat still limits the flow by temp.
Kinda voids the hi flow question when considering coolant time in the radiator.
No matter how much the pump pumps, the thermostat still limits the flow by temp.
Kinda voids the hi flow question when considering coolant time in the radiator.
Go with an 8 blade Craig and I think you should be fine. Im going period correct with mine(cast iron 8 blade)
CUDACOX
Well-Known Member
Thanks to all!
Everything I've read shows this to be an old wives tail. While "true" that the coolant has less time in the radiator to dissipate the heat, it also has less time in the engine to absorb that heat.
Pulled from another thread.
2 Darts
A-body Addicted
Check out the FlowKooler # 1701 for water pumps. I don't know if this is a "high volume" pump or not.
My thought is that flow is limited by the smallest passage that all of the coolant needs to flow through (usually the thermostat). I prefer the old RobertShaw brass thermostat for accuracy and the size of the opening that it allows water to pass through. I've had an AC and a Stant thermostat fail on me (closed position) in the past. No fun.
67Dart273
Well-Known Member
X2. Everything I've learned about heat exchange says this is wrong.
What I've seen indicates that the root of the problem might be OTHER than "too much flow" IE things like bypassing internally in the pump clearance. There was a webpage investigating tightening up pump clearance and actually testing pumps for more flow.
C130 Chief
Mechanical Genius
It's all about surface area. The area inside the cooling jackets and the area of the radiator core. The speed of the cooling media makes no difference (air never goes through the radiator too fast to take the heat away). The potential problem with too rapid flow through the heads comes from turbulence induced cavitation. That is, the water actually begins to slosh and churn causing localized lower pressure areas that can become steam pockets. Here typically a restrictor is added to regulate and balance the flow. This is more a function of how the water moves through the heads rather than the pump
The output of an impeller type pump will raise more or less with RPM until the impeller cavitates or there is a restriction on the intake or output. From that point on, the output remains basically constant. The pump will only deliver what the cooling system can flow, and requires no further regulation. The output of a positive displacement pump, like an oil pump, increases in direct proportion to RPM until restricted on the intake. This is why oil pumps are regulated with a bypass mechanism, otherwise destructive pressures would quickly develop. In either case there is a basic rule for pumps. Once you have enough it is enough, anything more than that is still only enough.
Milodon 16251 and Flowkooler 1701 are supposedly high flow early style pumps. They may help a little at lower street RPM, and probably are worthwhile if only because they'll have a nicer bearing and seal than a typical parts house cheapie. I plan to use the Milodon on my 65.
The output of an impeller type pump will raise more or less with RPM until the impeller cavitates or there is a restriction on the intake or output. From that point on, the output remains basically constant. The pump will only deliver what the cooling system can flow, and requires no further regulation. The output of a positive displacement pump, like an oil pump, increases in direct proportion to RPM until restricted on the intake. This is why oil pumps are regulated with a bypass mechanism, otherwise destructive pressures would quickly develop. In either case there is a basic rule for pumps. Once you have enough it is enough, anything more than that is still only enough.
Milodon 16251 and Flowkooler 1701 are supposedly high flow early style pumps. They may help a little at lower street RPM, and probably are worthwhile if only because they'll have a nicer bearing and seal than a typical parts house cheapie. I plan to use the Milodon on my 65.
TrailBeast
AKA Mopars4us on Youtube
And then you also have to take into account that a high flow pump might suck the bottom hose closed easier, so a spring coil hose might be needed.
Just another possible detail to deal with.
Just another possible detail to deal with.
71Scamper
Mopar runs thru my veins!
This is indeed true! If my memory serves me right when I removed my old slant, the bottom hose on that had a spring in it.
nm9stheham
Well-Known Member
Just to add to this....the fact that the thermostat controls coolant temperature by controlling coolant flow indicates that whenever there is sufficient airflow through a properly sized radiator, there is excess flow capacity available; otherwise, the thremostat could not manage temperature by opening further and allowing more flow. The only time that this is not adequate is when there is low airflow through the radiator; that is the one case where higher pressures to force more flow will be of use. But, as Del points out, a lot of that is dependent on impeller clearances.
And yes, a water pump is not a posittive displacement pump like an oil pump or Rootes type supercharger.
And yes, a water pump is not a posittive displacement pump like an oil pump or Rootes type supercharger.
CUDACOX
Well-Known Member
* Thank You.
ir3333
Well-Known Member
stock pump is plenty.
8 vane is used with small pulley,6 vane is used with large pulley to keep flow correct.
....spin too many blades too fast and you produce cavitation.
(crank pulley)
8 vane is used with small pulley,6 vane is used with large pulley to keep flow correct.
....spin too many blades too fast and you produce cavitation.
(crank pulley)
CUDACOX
Well-Known Member
Thanks.
66340SEDAN
FABO Member #3649
I have a flowkooler on my 340 in the Valiant and it worked great, but recently went out after only 7 years.....I also have one in my Satellite 340 and that one is well over 15 years old and good.... I'll probably get another one for the Valiant cause they seem to work good.
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