The article seems incomplete...
I can not seem to find a page two.
That’s only info carried over from the old Mopar Engine books we all bought 30 years ago.
The article seems incomplete...
I can not seem to find a page two.
I was thinking the same thing awhile back.View attachment 1715461335 View attachment 1715461336 I have two 360 blocks that need the lifter gallery’s tubed. Now I have no issues doing this on a stock 360 block but both of these have already been machined. Bad things can happen as we all know when enlarging a hole 10 inched in a stock cast iron block. Messing up a 50.00 block wouldn’t kill me but 1000.00 block would. Well while looking for my long 5/8 drill bit for the soft 1/2 (5/8 outside dia) house water line I usually use I grabbed a piece of my K&S tubing I keep handy. Wow is this a nice fit. A fast ream with my 9/16 drill bit and tap it in. Only issue I see is it is only .014 thick. I have the Direct Connection peening tool so I’m not worried about tearing it. What do you guys think about this. I’m thinking I’m going to give it a go.
I'd be concerned with the hardness of stainless, or brass, over copper. I believe they used soft copper tube because it will conform to the bore when peened easily. You might want to test the stainless before you commit to putting it in the block.
I'd be concerned with the hardness of stainless, or brass, over copper. I believe they used soft copper tube because it will conform to the bore when peened easily. You might want to test the stainless before you commit to putting it in the block.
View attachment 1715461595
That’s only info carried over from the old Mopar Engine books we all bought 30 years ago.
PBR, I'm confused as to why you are not wanting to ream the gallery? Am I missing something?
I did my X block a few years back and I'm going to do my R block in a couple of months. Is there something I need to know about the R blocks I'm not knowing???
TIA.
Yes yes yes, but the article is slightly different in showing, but not exactly explaining the plug in the main. I get how it is done but the article as I viewed it seemed to stop short of it all.
I do realize the plug in the main is the same passage way that is described in the MP books up top driver side they suggest to counter sink a female Allen plug into after you tap it to accept it.
What size Allen plug they would use in the main and proper tap size etc... was not mentioned. I do not see a page two to click on.
Right! Gotcha, like the MP book outlines. Your oil restriction is in the head with a set screw that you predrilled. IIRC, it is drilled at .060? I remember the post and picture(s.)I don’t tap and block my oil at the main. I tap the gallery opposite of the tubed gallery with a set screw under the cam thrust plate to block oil off on that side. I restrict my oil to the rocker gear under my rocker shafts so if I want to go up or down on oil supply I can easily do so.
I think he is messing with a stock block and the”R” block is as he said may be... already addressed? I never owned one.PBR, I'm confused as to why you are not wanting to ream the gallery? Am I missing something?
I did my X block a few years back and I'm going to do my R block in a couple of months. Is there something I need to know about the R blocks I'm not knowing???
TIA.
I may be wrong but I don’t think your R block will need tubed. I think they addressed that issue. I think.
I'd tell you for sure but I don't think it is on this generation of block. I'll revisit this at the end of February when I get back over to the shop where I'm building this pig.
I can verify if it's fixed or not on this early version.
I would slide a piece into a junk block back to the first lifter bore and try peening it first. Depending on the stainless It may be hard to peen. Just a thought of concern. I remember seeing copper used not anything else.This is only .028 thick so I should be ok peening it with my old Direct Connection tool. I worked with and ran a lot of Stainless grease lines during my 33 years as a Millwright in a steel mill. We shall know very soon if this works and it should help a lot of guys out facing the same issue.
I would slide a piece into a junk block back to the first lifter bore and try peening it first. Depending on the stainless It may be hard to peen. Just a thought of concern. I remember seeing copper used not anything else.
We needs pix when you do this.
View attachment 1715464506 View attachment 1715464507 Ok it’s been awhile so I give a small update. Let’s start out by saying I wouldn’t recommend using the 9/16 tubing unless you have LOTS of patients, tools, and a hole in your head. Would I do it again? Probably because and only because I have one more machined block sitting here. When I start out with a fresh unmachined block it’s getting drilled out to 5/8 and getting the 1/2 inch inside diameter soft copper pipe I have sitting here for this job. The stainless is slightly oversized and very hard to work with. Four lifter bores are fitted with four more to go.
Its harder than copper. I only guess that it wasnt easy to peen.What made this installation so difficult? I figured this would go much easier.
What made this installation so difficult? I figured this would go much easier.