My son has a 1 bbl holley for sale in parts...
Holley 1920 missing parts - time to swap?
- Thread starter troubbble
- Start date
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Hmm. Couldn't find the listing when I searched. Oh, maybe it isn't a 1920?
I have a 1967 1920 I'm not using. Rebuild kit installed but it still didn't idle when warm -- I think the idle passages are clogged with old fuel residue. Should be good for all parts as it was off a running car. I need $40 for it to cover my investment in the rebuild kit, shipping & tax. It should fit in a flat rate USPS box for $13.
troubbble
Member
If he's ValiantK360 I just messaged. If not, let me know and I'll PM you my contact info. Thanks!
And I edited my initial post to clarify that it wasn't a brass float - pishta asked before that edit was made.
the 1920 is a tough little carb, but does have one achilles heel. The throttle shaft can wear into the housing and cause a vacuum leak that will leave you chasing your tail when it comes to a clean idle..
If he's ValiantK360 I just messaged. If not, let me know and I'll PM you my contact info. Thanks!
And I edited my initial post to clarify that it wasn't a brass float - pishta asked before that edit was made.
Yeah, that's him...
I told him about this, he will be on in a bit, he's cooking lunch now...
troubbble
Member
I'm able to idle, but it's cutting out when I coast or sometimes just AFTER an idle. There are some similar threads on here that I'll be looking at to troubleshoot it when we get this or another carb back on. This was something that needed to be done, regardless.
We noticed the fuel filter was full of crap, too, so we're going to test with a new one, and if the gunk was the problem we'll clean out the lines and replace the tank.
We noticed the fuel filter was full of crap, too, so we're going to test with a new one, and if the gunk was the problem we'll clean out the lines and replace the tank.
slantsixdan
=..=
Carburetor operation and repair manuals and links to training movies and carb repair/modification threads are posted here for free download -- including a lot of info on fixing and improving the 1920.
That replacement carb from Daytona is an import from Argentina. It has its origins in an ancient local-production licence from Holley to an Argentinian company for the early Valiants in that country. Needs a manual choke, needs linkage adaptation, and it's pretty stone-age with none of the advances and improvements made over the 1920s lifespan though it does have a separate cast iron throttle body. It's a shame the maker (Caresa, website here) didn't pick up and run with the later and better local Holley 1922, but they didn't.
I do wonder what kind of float (brass...?) might be in that Argentinian carb and whether it might be a go in a US 1920 carb. For the record, I never experienced difficulties using the 7.5g and 12.5g 1920 floats interchangeably as long as the correct float spring was used, too.
Overall I like the Carter BBS, which was factory equipment (production option with the 1920 Holley) on Slant-6s '60 through '71 on cars, through '74 on domestic trucks, later than that on export trucks, quite a lot better than the 1920. But these days questions of which is the superior carb design are usually outweighed by what carb you can find that's in good condition.
That replacement carb from Daytona is an import from Argentina. It has its origins in an ancient local-production licence from Holley to an Argentinian company for the early Valiants in that country. Needs a manual choke, needs linkage adaptation, and it's pretty stone-age with none of the advances and improvements made over the 1920s lifespan though it does have a separate cast iron throttle body. It's a shame the maker (Caresa, website here) didn't pick up and run with the later and better local Holley 1922, but they didn't.
I do wonder what kind of float (brass...?) might be in that Argentinian carb and whether it might be a go in a US 1920 carb. For the record, I never experienced difficulties using the 7.5g and 12.5g 1920 floats interchangeably as long as the correct float spring was used, too.
Overall I like the Carter BBS, which was factory equipment (production option with the 1920 Holley) on Slant-6s '60 through '71 on cars, through '74 on domestic trucks, later than that on export trucks, quite a lot better than the 1920. But these days questions of which is the superior carb design are usually outweighed by what carb you can find that's in good condition.
bbrroowwnn
never re member
Well there you have it from Dan "the expert".....I have a new 12.5 gram float here if you can find a spring
whitepunkonnitro
Well-Known Member
The Achilles heel on the 1920 is the low speed passage in the metering block. The way it is situated, there is no way to effectively clean it out during a normal rebuild. Its also prone to clogging because there is no easy way for fuel to drain out as the carb sits. Any gas left in there turns to gack and blocks it up.
This is 99.5% of all 1920 drivability issues.
The fix, is to remove the metering block, and pop out the lead plug at the top of the block. I use a long bristle from a wire brush to slowly poke and drill through the passage until the wire can be seen at the bottom of the block, through the low speed jet hole.
To seal it back up, I cover the hole at the top with a sliver of soda can aluminum, and a coating of JB Weld.
You get that passage clear, and the 1920 is an amazing little carb. Idles and responds cleaner off idle than the BBS.
This is 99.5% of all 1920 drivability issues.
The fix, is to remove the metering block, and pop out the lead plug at the top of the block. I use a long bristle from a wire brush to slowly poke and drill through the passage until the wire can be seen at the bottom of the block, through the low speed jet hole.
To seal it back up, I cover the hole at the top with a sliver of soda can aluminum, and a coating of JB Weld.
You get that passage clear, and the 1920 is an amazing little carb. Idles and responds cleaner off idle than the BBS.
pishta
I know I'm right....
I think he edited that in 5 hours after I posted mine. If I still had that 1920 off the 67 motor I have, I'd have given it to him by now. Just checked, Im fresh out.
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slantsixdan
=..=
Disagree on both counts. The 1920, in working condition, is an adequate carburetor. It can be made somewhat less minimally adequate with careful time and attention, but it is not amazing. The main reason why Chrysler used it was that it was inexpensive.
Is it better than a BBS? By design, no, it's inferior. Performance? No, not ineherently; either carburetor can run better or worse than the other depending on the condition of the particular carburetor at hand.
But go with y'self; I don't try to dictate what flavour of ice cream anyone else ought to prefer, either.
whitepunkonnitro
Well-Known Member
I don't have any issues at all with the BBS, just stating what I have experienced personally, using both carbs back to back on the same engine, same day, same gas, etc.
Thanks, I think you nailed what was wrong with mine. I'll try your trick and maybe there will be one more working Holley available.
troubbble
Member
Thanks everyone! We've got a working 1920 coming in the mail (with float, baffle, and spring) and will see if we can get her running again. We'll probably look into the Super Six in the future.
IIRC, the kits from Mike's have the plugs and I believe new check balls. Had to do that with the "spare" 1920 I picked up a couple years ago. Still kind of PITA to clean out, but drilling out those plugs makes it a lot easier.
BillGrissom
Well-Known Member
Good luck. I went thru 4 Holley 1920's in my 69 Dart 225 over several decades before I found one that made it idle smooth. All the others (parts stores) ran lean at idle, wanting to stall when leaving a stoplight. Several mechanics looked at it, to no avail, though twice they said "valves" and rebuilt the head. After a whole new long block ran the same, I decided it must be the carb, and it was. Many bad rebuilt 1920's in the parts chain. One to consider is the "Holley Economaster" from late 70-80's, for better mileage. I think I have seen a new one for the slant on ebay (~$150).
bbrroowwnn
never re member
Hey I still had the old box I received the floats in.....I was cleaning up the workbench today and on the flap was the sellers business name.....fuel injection surplus LLC from TX....I did some googling and found his facebook page which led me to his ebay page and user ID....It is "2010fis" .
Fuel Injection Surplus | Facebook
2010fis | eBay
Above are the two links to him....Remember, I had to ask him if he had any so they were not listed....So I would send him a message through ebay and ask him if he has any 7.5 gram floats left for 1920 carb
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