Holley 4160 Q's

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MOPARJ

What can I upgrade now?
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I recently switched over to a 4160 Holley (600 cfm) that I had on my shelf onto my 318 with 8:5:1 compression, hooker headers, 3 angle valve job to heads, Comp XE268 cam, 2500 TC, and 3.23 gears. I had an Eddie 600 cfm on it before. The low end on the Holley is fairly good, but it seems that when floored, there is a tad less grunt above 3000 rpm and it feels like the revs waver slightly, like it may be lean. It doesnt pull quite as hard as it did when opening up the secondaries on the freeway at 70 mph. This carb has the secondary plate in the rear and 72 jets in the primaries. Is there a way to richen the carb up on the top end a bit with converting to a 4150 style setup with actual metering blocks and jets for the secondaries?
 
What spring do you have in the secondaries? A softer one might work better.
Also, I had 4160 600 on my 360 for quite awhile and found it overly rich across the rpm range.

Can't recall the brand but both Jegs and Summit have them. It's a metering plate that accepts screw in jets. I believe the stock plate is equivalent 74 jets. I wound up using 70's and 68's in the front.
 
If this is an 1850, then its jetted too high in the primaries, this might explain the sluggishness, the factory primary jets are 66s, the secondary plate is 134-9 which is equivalent to a 64 jet, 1850 -1,2,3 came with a .25 squirter, -4,5,6 came with a .31, this is from my 05 book, if you have any of these models, i would put it back to the stock settings, then go from there. secondary pod spring is the "silver" med. on all these models.
 
If this is an 1850, then its jetted too high in the primaries, this might explain the sluggishness, the factory primary jets are 66s, the secondary plate is 134-9 which is equivalent to a 64 jet, 1850 -1,2,3 came with a .25 squirter, -4,5,6 came with a .31, this is from my 05 book, if you have any of these models, i would put it back to the stock settings, then go from there. secondary pod spring is the "silver" med. on all these models.

Its slightly down on power when secondaries are opened, not primaries. With the cam and headers, I would think more than the secondary plates flow capacity, if equal to 64 jets, is needed.

Why would the 72 primaries be the cause and not the 64 like secondarie plate?
 

Its slightly down on power when secondaries are opened, not primaries. With the cam and headers, I would think more than the secondary plates flow capacity, if equal to 64 jets, is needed.

Why would the 72 primaries be the cause and not the 64 like secondarie plate?

You may not think its down on power to much in the primaries, but you'de have to run the stock jetting 1st. to make a determination & not guess, they build these carbs & set the jetting as close as possible, if your needing to alter the jetting to much, then its not the right carb for the engine, its very rare that you would need to mess with the rear jet plate on either the 1850 or 3310, unless you really increase the plenum distance, like a TR, if it was me, i would go right back to stock jetting in the front & test it again, its more then likely getting too much fuel @ WOT, so its being lazy. Even with a few bolt-ons, you shouldn't need any more then a 68 up front at most, just trying to give you sound advice. 8)

BTW, make sure your float levels are set, slight trickle out the plugs.
 
It probably is rich, I jetted mine down on my 318.
There is a kit to convert a 4160 to a 4150 style carb. It contains a metering block, gasket and O rings for use with a longer transfer tube included.
 
I have 67 or 70 jets. Which should I try first?

Is the rear plate equivalent to a 64 or 74?

I don't see any black smoke out the tail pipes when at WOT with the Holley, like I saw with the Eddie, but I am not sure if that makes any difference in this case or not, if the primary jetting is too fat.
 
I have 67 or 70 jets. Which should I try first?

Is the rear plate equivalent to a 64 or 74?

I don't see any black smoke out the tail pipes when at WOT with the Holley, like I saw with the Eddie, but I am not sure if that makes any difference in this case or not, if the primary jetting is too fat.

If knowone tampered with the rear plate, then it'll be equal to a 64 jet, throw the 67s in the front, that'll be very close as a starting point, going up 6+ sizes in jets won't necessarily mean it'll blow black smoke, running too high a float level will for the most part. Do the 67s & let us know how it runs, just be very careful with the transfer tube O ring, drop a dab of oil on it so it slides back in easy & doesn't rip, don't pull the whole tube off, leave it on the back.
 
I recently switched over to a 4160 Holley (600 cfm) that I had on my shelf onto my 318 with 8:5:1 compression, hooker headers, 3 angle valve job to heads, Comp XE268 cam, 2500 TC, and 3.23 gears. I had an Eddie 600 cfm on it before. The low end on the Holley is fairly good, but it seems that when floored, there is a tad less grunt above 3000 rpm and it feels like the revs waver slightly, like it may be lean. It doesnt pull quite as hard as it did when opening up the secondaries on the freeway at 70 mph. This carb has the secondary plate in the rear and 72 jets in the primaries. Is there a way to richen the carb up on the top end a bit with converting to a 4150 style setup with actual metering blocks and jets for the secondaries?


here is what i did. make sure you have the notched floats though. if not you'll have to buy them also.

http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=72939



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I have a slight tear in the seal from taking the bowl off before on several occassions, but made sure that it still works.

I dont think 67 will be too bad or too lean, so as long as it is not lean enough to pop through the carb. I will give it a shot.
 
Another thing i would do is, get a can of carb cleaner & spray out the air bleeds on the top of the carb, they tend to get stopped up easy on the holleys.
 
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