VHT ?? Eastwood ??? Something better than both??? Price difference is 400 bucks on the headers. What have you done and what are your experiences in your home remedies?? Thanks for any and all .....
home ceramic coating headers ??
- Thread starter 318willrun
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First off, what are you doing with headers?
brand new, going on a street vehicle. Sold in the normal protective paint but not heat coated paint
I just let them rust, I have yet to find a paint coating that will stay on.
I will remove the factory paint. I have used VHT in the past and it does "well" but not great. Hoping somebody will have a better "I've always bought ........ made for the coal mines" type of trick ... LOL
I would like to know also, got a new set of Dougs for the next project.
but you got to send them off, not sure on their prices. I can buy them coated for 400 more, but looking for a home -DIY- type of remedy
They redo lots of commercial coated headers. You can get prices on Monday...
These guys were coating, long before most people had heard of coatings, and while other coaters were still wearing diapers.
These guys were coating, long before most people had heard of coatings, and while other coaters were still wearing diapers.
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Certainly somebody has had good success with a method .... Share the Madness!!!
Use the best in the business: Cerakote.
This is the most popular, Glacier Black.
Cerakote - CERAKOTE GLACIER BLACK
There are MSDS and application tips as well which I encourage you to familiarize yourself with.
Basically you need:
A means to blast the metal for the best adhesion;
Wash and dry it thoroughly (don't just blow it off with compressed air, as that leaves dust residue);
An HVLP gun with a .08 mm tip;
Wires or hooks to suspend the parts for 360 degree access (you can also dip them if your tank is large enough).
The only expensive thing about ceramic coatings is the cost of the ceramic itself. A 4 ounce Tester is enough for a set of wheels and will likely have leftovers (returned to the bottle by the way) ... you can also buy a bigger bottle and get everybody in your car club who wants their headers and manifolds done to pitch in, splitting costs and helping prep while allllll saving a $hitload of money.
It dries to the touch in under an hour usually, and then cures in open air over the next 5 days whether it's still hanging on wires, laying on the shop floor or installed on your car. It's good to about 1800 degrees. Wrapping it with exhaust wrap is how you void the warranty.
Check it out! You'll be happy with it.
This is the most popular, Glacier Black.
Cerakote - CERAKOTE GLACIER BLACK
There are MSDS and application tips as well which I encourage you to familiarize yourself with.
Basically you need:
A means to blast the metal for the best adhesion;
Wash and dry it thoroughly (don't just blow it off with compressed air, as that leaves dust residue);
An HVLP gun with a .08 mm tip;
Wires or hooks to suspend the parts for 360 degree access (you can also dip them if your tank is large enough).
The only expensive thing about ceramic coatings is the cost of the ceramic itself. A 4 ounce Tester is enough for a set of wheels and will likely have leftovers (returned to the bottle by the way) ... you can also buy a bigger bottle and get everybody in your car club who wants their headers and manifolds done to pitch in, splitting costs and helping prep while allllll saving a $hitload of money.
It dries to the touch in under an hour usually, and then cures in open air over the next 5 days whether it's still hanging on wires, laying on the shop floor or installed on your car. It's good to about 1800 degrees. Wrapping it with exhaust wrap is how you void the warranty.
Check it out! You'll be happy with it.
thank you, reading through it now
on a side note, I thought this was an interesting test ...
I don't think pop cans were the intended use, since most people don't paint aluminum parts besides valve covers which are much thicker than aluminum cans, lol.
But those results are the same as the 1 and only can of vht on mild steel headers, doesn't work.
But I like the fart noises and other sound effects
But those results are the same as the 1 and only can of vht on mild steel headers, doesn't work.
But I like the fart noises and other sound effects
furyus2
Well-Known Member
I was wondering if the ceramic coating will be able to be sandblasted off? I would like to try ceracoat.
My Hedman headers are rusty after 2 years. Some TTI customers have had the same problem. So, I'm not comfortable with buying Doug's, or TTI with the coating.
My Hedman headers are rusty after 2 years. Some TTI customers have had the same problem. So, I'm not comfortable with buying Doug's, or TTI with the coating.
33IMP
Well-Known Member
@CudaChick1968 , is that the same stuff I hear a local gunshop advertise for a firearm coating?
No, but it's the same company.
There are several different formulations of Cerakote for different substrates (polished metals, firearms, high heat, etc.). The website changes frequently but there should still be prompt questions that will help you choose the right formulation for your application.
Every one I've tried has been phenomenal.
33IMP
Well-Known Member
Thanks C.C. !
I used cerakote on my doug's headers back in 2020. It was the first time I used a spray gun in my life. I followed CudaChick1968 advice from another thread from a few years ago. (I would look for it but I'm supposed to be "working"). I feel like the cerakote has held up pretty good. I don't see any rust and nothing is flaking off. Attached picture is not the best but it's the picture I have.
Awesome!!
I just went to that site. Says takes 3 minutes to get a quote, so I take it this is a "send it in and they coat them" type of place ??
That's exactly what it is. The company has been sold a few times since opening in the 80s. It's unfortunate that new owners seem to lack the pride of workmanship the founder did.
Phreakish
Well-Known Member
Depends on the application. The higher heat stuff costs more, and most customers are cheap so gun shops tend to use the stuff not meant for high heat. Gun shops also tend not to have large enough equipment (blast cabinets and ovens) to process stuff the size of headers.
Suppressors are often cerakoted due to the heat they can experience. I've seen the stuff stand up pretty well when the high-heat stuff meant for the application are used. Suppressors can reach glowing temperatures, and while nothing will stick at that point the cerakote holds on pretty well until then.
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