Home painted ,car guys.....

[clhyer]

Your thoughts,on home brewed bodywork, paint ,&; patience

Getting back to the basic question; if you have the basic tools and the patience you can achieve darn good bodywork. That's the foundation of a good or great paint job. Most of us have the same thing the body shop uses - sandpaper and block sanders. Tips and instructions are available all over the place just for the asking. The most expensive paint laid on top of crappy body work will look pretty crappy. Conversely, the cheapest paint on top of good body work will look pretty decent. That bodywork requires patience - and that is something you have at home (or can have) that the body shop doesn't...

Paint is something else. And it comes down to "how much do you want to spend"? I've used very high dollar bc/cc in a paint booth and achieved very acceptable results. I am actually quite proud of that paint job. I have also used Rustoleum in my garage at home and achieved results that I am very happy with. In both cases there was no color shot until I was satisfied with the unlaying body work.

A little more on the Rustoleum. My goal for the car was to do a complete resto-mod as cheaply as I could. With two kids in college, I had a lot more time than money to put into it. I shot the interior shell with the Rusto and it looked pretty good - and you don't see any of it! But since I was changing colors I wanted that "complete" job. I painted the engine bay with Rusto and again was pretty happy with it. When I got around to shooting color, I shot 3 coats of gloss white over 3 days. The Rusto and my cheap Harbor Freight paint gun left a lot of orange peel, but I had the time to wet sand. I don't recall offhand how long I waited, maybe a week or two and then I taped it up and sprayed 3 coats of gloss black Rusto over 3 days and then more wet sanding. It was a couple three weeks later I added the vinyl stripes and about 2-3 months later I added three coats of a cheap clear. Then more wet sanding.

My thoughts on Rustoleum some 3 1/2 years after the fact...
Would I do it again - maybe. I achieved what I wanted with the Duster. A good looking car at minimal cost. My Duster is a driver, not a show car. Last year I took it on a 2,000 mile trip and had a blast. That said, I am having my truck painted this week - with bc/cc.
Do I think the Rustoleum/tractor enamels/similar paints are good quality - yes I do. I can point out a heck of a lot more old farm equipment still wearing original paint with absolutely zero care taken of it than I can any car with a bc/cc that is parked outside 24-7, even cars with routine wash & wax. This will be my trucks third bc/cc since 1999; and I do take reasonable care of it.
C

 

[lenky1]

I run a bodyshop and do a lot of side work. If I'm at the shop or home if I'm doing something for someone I leave it up to them. Its their car their choice and that's how it should be. And at the end of the day if you spend 500 or 50000 on paint and bodywork it was still the owners choice

 

[Abodybomber]

Your thoughts,on home brewed bodywork, paint ,&; patience

Getting back to the basic question; if you have the basic tools and the patience you can achieve darn good bodywork. That's the foundation of a good or great paint job. Most of us have the same thing the body shop uses - sandpaper and block sanders. Tips and instructions are available all over the place just for the asking. The most expensive paint laid on top of crappy body work will look pretty crappy. Conversely, the cheapest paint on top of good body work will look pretty decent. That bodywork requires patience - and that is something you have at home (or can have) that the body shop doesn't...

Paint is something else. And it comes down to "how much do you want to spend"? I've used very high dollar bc/cc in a paint booth and achieved very acceptable results. I am actually quite proud of that paint job. I have also used Rustoleum in my garage at home and achieved results that I am very happy with. In both cases there was no color shot until I was satisfied with the unlaying body work.

A little more on the Rustoleum. My goal for the car was to do a complete resto-mod as cheaply as I could. With two kids in college, I had a lot more time than money to put into it. I shot the interior shell with the Rusto and it looked pretty good - and you don't see any of it! But since I was changing colors I wanted that "complete" job. I painted the engine bay with Rusto and again was pretty happy with it. When I got around to shooting color, I shot 3 coats of gloss white over 3 days. The Rusto and my cheap Harbor Freight paint gun left a lot of orange peel, but I had the time to wet sand. I don't recall offhand how long I waited, maybe a week or two and then I taped it up and sprayed 3 coats of gloss black Rusto over 3 days and then more wet sanding. It was a couple three weeks later I added the vinyl stripes and about 2-3 months later I added three coats of a cheap clear. Then more wet sanding.

My thoughts on Rustoleum some 3 1/2 years after the fact...
Would I do it again - maybe. I achieved what I wanted with the Duster. A good looking car at minimal cost. My Duster is a driver, not a show car. Last year I took it on a 2,000 mile trip and had a blast. That said, I am having my truck painted this week - with bc/cc.
Do I think the Rustoleum/tractor enamels/similar paints are good quality - yes I do. I can point out a heck of a lot more old farm equipment still wearing original paint with absolutely zero care taken of it than I can any car with a bc/cc that is parked outside 24-7, even cars with routine wash & wax. This will be my trucks third bc/cc since 1999; and I do take reasonable care of it.
C

Rusty was right. That came out NICE! Love the two tone!

 

[cudajim]

I find I have to paint my own cars because it's too expensive to have someone else do it. Also, unless it's a trailer queen and always garaged the paint gets chipped and dinged and needs to be sprayed again in about 3 years. I don't have show cars cause I drive em!

 

[vitamindart]

I used the summit single stage on a couple cars. I am Far from a painter but, I was able to lay down a decent paint job. it had a little orange peel in it but, I left it because as many have said before me. I drive my car its not a trailer queen. if its on the trailer its broke or being stolen.

 

[1970-dart]

I used the summit single stage on a couple cars. I am Far from a painter but, I was able to lay down a decent paint job. it had a little orange peel in it but, I left it because as many have said before me. I drive my car its not a trailer queen. if its on the trailer its broke or being stolen.

that ^^ exactly lol

 

[75Sport]

Oh my! Not only is the Dart beautiful!

 

[ptbill]

Can I spray single stage paint over my 65 Barracuda original paint with out a primer? I want to do under the hood and trunk lid and the paint is pretty good, no rust.
Thanks Bill

 

[WoodenNickle]

Okay, so I have a stupid question. If you shoot something like an engine bay, how do you cut and buff? Do you have to do the same buffing for single stage AND base/clear?

 

[Bulldozer]

Okay, so I have a stupid question. If you shoot something like an engine bay, how do you cut and buff? Do you have to do the same buffing for single stage AND base/clear?

this is single stage tcp global. this comes with a wet look hardener. no buffing necessary, but you can. this came out so good that I wouldn't buff it.

 

[DusTed74]

Some really good info here.

 

[1971demonH]

use automotive finishes to spray an automobile. there is a lot of research put into them and it is cheap insurance for your mopar. if price is an issue, use single stage urethane (only solid colors). extremely durable and excellent show.

 

[1971demonH]

you shouldn't have to do much buffing with single stage. don't use metallics as they will distort when buffing. single stage doesn't catch much dirt so you shouldn't have to buff much.

 

[sscuda]

Was never a paint genius,I know how to fairly work spray guns. Was always (still a big fan..) of decent bodywork,and straight single stage paint jobs. (Yes ,I have done BC/CC ,had decent results) I just can't justify ,1k plus in paint,on a low buck ride.(My favorite single stage paint, was quoted @ 275 a gallon.) Your thoughts,on home brewed bodywork, paint ,&; patience

ABB,

I admire your ambition and sense of adventure when wanting to do your own bodywork and spray painting, and with minimal skills too. Do it right and take a night school course on autobody refinishing, you won't be sorry. Too many guys get neck deep into a job then discover it's more than they can handle and it costs them twice as much to fix all the mistakes or the vehicle gets chit canned to the back yard and wastes away.

As far as paint (refinishing materials) costs go, you get what you pay for and most times a lot less. You are the only one who can make this decision on what level of quality you will accept.

My thoughts on "home grown" paint jobs? If the DYI operator uses a safe environment, a surgically clean, well lit, well ventilated, captures the overspray properly, and the spray booth is well away from the neighbours I don't have a problem. It's went none of the above elements are met is when I have a problem. I've seen so many guys with isocyanate poisoning or other breathing problems from not taking proper precautions or not having adaquate ventilation it's not funny. I've seen garages or work shops burn down due to poor lighting or improper ventilation. I've listened to neighbours complain about the stink and potential poison released into the atmosphere, and yes you could get fined for this. I've read on this site where the paint job was less than satisfactory and they can't fathom why (although not that often because the DYI'rs don't want to admit they flubbed the job).

If these answers seem like harsh answers to your questions they are meant to be. There is no way I can sugar coat the disapointment in a flubbed refinish job, a potential disaster , or even a possible health hazard.

I've lost a few friends and a couple of mentors due to the hazards of the automobile refinish or painting industry. When I was quite a bit younger a former mentor (now deceased) said to me "there are not many painters past the age of 40 in this business". He also told me to get out of the auto refinish business , which I promptly did after I got my diplomas.. The OEM side of the painting business is much cleaner and safer.

Please be safe and good luck in your refinishing endevours.

OK, rant over........



:glasses7:

 

[95teetee]

Painted in the building behind, put up a curtain wall.

back in the '80s I worked in a store (ag, hardware, automotive, generally everything sort of place). I built a paint booth in the back with vapor barrier and painted my '66 mustang in it.

I thought I had the booth sealed pretty well until I noticed everything in the back had a fine layer of '71 corvette yellow dust on it ops:

 

[marksmopar1]

X2 with SSCUDA,
Many other things to consider, environment around you (neighbours, structures, ETC), Health being #1!!! Of course it can be done, but at what cost, not just out of pocket cost.

 

[Rocky_JS]

shot in garage at home. PPG DCC9000 single stage.

 

[GeorgeH]

Very nice and that's nice paint to work with.

 

[plymman]

Painted our 52 plym. 3 window with cheap urethane (OMNI) giving it a coupe of extra coats to allow for fine sanding/rubbing/ blending. Used a solid colour, no metallic so matching was not a problem. Removed as many panels as possible to paint on a bench, hood, trunk, fenders. Painted in open backyard garage, one panel at a time with a $25 touch up gun, a $200 compressor and a $15 mask from HF, lots of dust nibs but eventually got them sanded and polished out. Some elbow grease but got the whole thing done (colour change) for less than $500 incl. paint, primer, sandpaper, polish, etc. Hope to do the 69 barracuda coupe the same way. It can be done!

 

[sireland67]

X2 with SSCUDA,
Many other things to consider, environment around you (neighbours, structures, ETC), Health being #1!!! Of course it can be done, but at what cost, not just out of pocket cost.

X3 I quit painting for a living 20 years ago, 6 months later I felt alot better, constant exposure to the chemicals will take its toll on your health.

Here is a picture of my old truck that I painted in my one car garage.
It was painted with cheap ACE hardware paint.

 

[barbee6043]

X3 I quit painting for a living 20 years ago, 6 months later I felt alot better, constant exposure to the chemicals will take its toll on your health.

Here is a picture of my old truck that I painted in my one car garage.
It was painted with cheap ACE hardware paint.

looks really good. I want a truck like that BAD!!!!!

 

[Abodybomber]

X3 I quit painting for a living 20 years ago, 6 months later I felt alot better, constant exposure to the chemicals will take its toll on your health.

Here is a picture of my old truck that I painted in my one car garage.
It was painted with cheap ACE hardware paint.

Loaned my shop, for a friend to paint his car with Ace hardware. Laid down ,nice....

 

[wannadrag]

Just sprayed this today with a total of around $500 in materials.

 

[sireland67]

That looks great, what materials did you use?

 

[wannadrag]

Bought all of it from Summit and used the single stage paint.3 coats of color with the 4th coat mixed 50/50 color and clear to give it the wet look.Used all summit products from epoxy,2K primer,sealer,paint,clear,activators and reducer.The paint calls for no reducing but it is way to thick so it was reduced 10 percent as recommended from the tech sheet.The products from what have read are made by Kirker.