Hooker header removal??

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540slant6

540slant6

Mopar SB Ripper
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Alright gents, I have a 72 Duster with a 318 and 904 trans. When I bought the car, it already had a set of hooker long tube headers. I'm now upgrading to a set of decked "J" heads. The car has power steering and power brakes along with a mini starter. How do remove the driver side header with the heads still on??? Seems impossible because the steering linkage passes through the headers. Even when I disconnect the tie rods I can't get that side out of the car. Do I need to remove the steering box?

My wife and little one are with the in laws until Sunday night so the clock is ticking. Any help is greatly appreciated.
 
You have to disconnect the center link on the driver's side. Disconnect both the pitman arm and tie rod from the center link and drop it out of the way.

then the front tube to #1 cylinder will separate.

Then loosen and remove the starter, unbolt the left motor mount,, Lift the left side of the engine while you wrestle the header out from the bottom... You may have to wait until you get the header loose before you can get the starter fully out, It also helps to turn the steering wheel/pitman arm for more clearance...

That's what I did with my Hooker 5116 headers.
 
krazykuda said:
You have to disconnect the center link on the driver's side. Disconnect both the pitman arm and tie rod from the center link and drop it out of the way.

then the front tube to #1 cylinder will separate.

Then loosen and remove the starter, unbolt the left motor mount,, Lift the left side of the engine while you wrestle the header out from the bottom... You may have to wait until you get the header loose before you can get the starter fully out, It also helps to turn the steering wheel/pitman arm for more clearance...

That's what I did with my Hooker 5116 headers.
Click to expand...

Gadds. .......working on my Stingray was easier than these A-bodies!
 

I just took a set of headers off of my 69 Valiant and it was a small block mini starter 904, my drivers side header had the center link thru the header, I removed the tie rods, I removed the center link from the idler arm and the steering box and the car was lifted on jack stands and I lifted the motor till the 904 was hitting the floor and I just had enough room to wiggle the header out. My front stud was out of the head but the rear stud was in the head and it would have been easier if the stud would have been out. My car has a manual steering box but I still think that if you follow those steps it will drop out the bottom. Good luck Webby.
 
I used a sawsall with a metal blade and cut the headers off mine. Takes about 10 minutes. Can't use them again though.
 
TF360 said:
I used a sawsall with a metal blade and cut the headers off mine. Takes about 10 minutes. Can't use them again though.
Click to expand...
That's what my buddy did as well. LOL. Get the car as high as you can( 2 feet) and do the above mentioned steps.
 
540slant6 said:
Alright gents, I have a 72 Duster with a 318 and 904 trans. When I bought the car, it already had a set of hooker long tube headers. I'm now upgrading to a set of decked "J" heads. The car has power steering and power brakes along with a mini starter. How do remove the driver side header with the heads still on??? Seems impossible because the steering linkage passes through the headers. Even when I disconnect the tie rods I can't get that side out of the car. Do I need to remove the steering box?

My wife and little one are with the in laws until Sunday night so the clock is ticking. Any help is greatly appreciated.
Click to expand...


When I installed mine, I broke the center link loose on the driver side, the one that passes through the header.

You will have to jack the front of the car up as high as you can safely (secure it well), loosen the motor mounts, place a wood block under the oil pan and raise the engine a tad (lifting it and shifting it slightly toward the passenger side will help some). It is a chore dealing with headers on these A bodies for sure, but it is doable.

Even if you pull the head, it still won't come out the top (passenger side yes, driver side no, it HAS to come out the bottom), I tried when I dropped mine in, I got them in place, installed the heads and then attached them.

Of course the reciprocating saw is a good idea if you don't need to save the header.
 
Alright fellsas, so I should run a stock pair of 340 manifolds is what you're saying? If so, I agree. For a street driven 318 with 9.5 : 1 comp, headers aren't worthy of my mild build.
 
Well that's your decision, if you aren't looking for every ounce of performance, manifolds are just fine.
 
I always go with headers. You would be amazed at how restrictive the exhaust is, even with the HP manifolds. I get not feeling the "need" to squeeze every ounce of power out. But headers will help with flow, power through all the RPM range, better scavenging, efficiency and honestly are one of the cheapest power adders you can do. Best part is, if you upgrade things later, you won't feel like your exhaust is holding you back. That and every exhaust sounds that much better with headers.
 
540slant6 said:
Alright fellsas, so I should run a stock pair of 340 manifolds is what you're saying? If so, I agree. For a street driven 318 with 9.5 : 1 comp, headers aren't worthy of my mild build.
Click to expand...

I went back to stock exhaust manifolds after dealing with header issues. Cooking starters, pipes hanging down low and getting crushed...
 
Dougs 453's, a little pricey but they fit so much better and go over the steering. Won't have to disconnect the steering linkage again. Clears everything on my 68 barracuda, 318 904 auto, power steering and power disc brakes. Only required minor shimming on the mounts and a 90 degree oil filter adapter
 
racerdan80 said:
Dougs 453's, a little pricey but they fit so much better and go over the steering. Won't have to disconnect the steering linkage again. Clears everything on my 68 barracuda, 318 904 auto, power steering and power disc brakes. Only required minor shimming on the mounts and a 90 degree oil filter adapter
Click to expand...

I'm putting Doug's on my 68 Cuda (they're sitting on my bench right now) 318 w/727. What 90 degree oil filter adapter are you talking about?
 
I've heard of problems getting to the spark plugs on alot of the 1 5/8 street headers, anyone have issues getting to the spark plugs on the drivers side?
 
I've had the hookers off my 72 Duster several times in the past year. Non PS, full size starter. The key was safetly getting the car high enough, 3 feet, to get the drivers side to drop out. Like others said, removed center link & starter. I didn't in loosen the motor mount. In my case I had also removed the oil pan to perform some work. It's a pain but not horrible.
 
Not with the dougs, spark plugs are easily accessible

Do you have a part number I can check out?

Nope, I run the Summit headers, no issues here.

Thanks for the input guys.
 
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