Hooker Header Repair Tips and Tricks

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1969GTS340

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I have a set of Hooker 5303 1-7/8 headers on my small block A Body drag car. The left side tubes got bent up from getting snagged on the trailer. I'd like to replace these tubes if anyone has them but since that's a slim chance, I'm looking into repairing these. I'd like to hear any tips and tricks on repairing Header tubes.

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I would buy some thin wall 1.75 stock and have a shop bend it to duplicate
 
I had to repair mine when I bought them.

I had some 1 7/8 tube laying around so on all the dented parts I cut out the dent, fitted a new piece from my left over tubing and TIG’d them into place. I buffed them off with a wizzer wheel and you can’t tell where the repair was.

Your number 1 tube could be a bit of a mother bear. IMO, the more of the original tube you can keep the easier the repair will be. I can’t tell if the bottom of that tube is pulled down where it goes into the collector but if it is that will be tricky getting it back into place.

If nothing else I’d bolt the header to a head that is preferably bolted to a block so it can’t move and then start your repairs.

Those 5303’s are the best headers I’ve had. I’d love to test them against a set of TTI’s and the other ones…TA headers IIRC.

Your header is definitely worth repairing because as you well know the BONE HEADS a at Hooker no longer make them and thats a bummer.
 
Cut them through the center or off center of the damage and straighten them by heating the header and hammering a iron ball end into the header. Then Tig weld them back together. If damage is to severe , Buy some 1 7/8 u-bends from Summit Racing and replace the damaged areas.

I made an Iron mushroom looking piece and welded it to a smaller diameter shaft to then hammer in the header when cherry red. Use what you have laying around. I cut the ball off of a large Ball peen hammer already that I welded a shaft on to hammer it through. Your creativeness can only work with what you have to do the job.
 
I have repaired headers, even though its been dyno proven the dents do not impare performance. You would have to have a severely crushed and collapsed tube. So It was a visual thing for me.

First I braised two straps to the adjacent tube to maintain position. Then I cut out the offending area and fitted a replacement section. Then I braised it together and removed the straps. Braising is less heat(somewhat) and can be done with an inexpensive torch you can buy at the hardware store.
 
I’ve repaired mine with parts from Summit and keep extra handy for those just in case moments. Every repair is different so it’s kinda hard to explain how to go about it
 
When Hooker was Hooker by themselves….
They used to offer a gaggle of header repair parts. While they would not offer direct bend repair sections, they did offer at one time various bends in most every size and several configurations. 45*, 90*, “U”, etc…. As well as coupling parts and collectors. As in your example, you could cut the tube, install the replacement tube and use there connectors to slide within or over the tube and weld on.
 
At one time, I don't remember if it was Hooker or Hedmann sold the headers unwelded. maybe you could just get the tubes you need?
 
Thanks Guys. That's alot of options to try. I have an old magnum head that I can mount the flange to and start getting these back in shape. If they end up not looking like a Frankenstine project, I'll post a picture when done.
 
Consider the technique used in auto body repair where a pad is welded to the panel and the dent pulled out, then the tab is cut off. Heating the area will make it move easily. I’ve got a set of 1 3/4” Hookers for my E-body that will get this treatment. I’ll use long rods through the port openings where I can. If it’s on a straight section I would rather cut out and splice in a patch.
 
well these headers were build from 60 deg bends and i made the flanges from 1/2 flat stock , round my own cones for the collectors . mig welded the flanges to the tubes and just plan old gas welded the tubes together did some scuff pad buff'n , still have to do some finish welding but there were they need to be . granted it's not as tight as an a bodies . but its just a repair . get some j bends and build another tube or fix that one .

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well these headers were build from 60 deg bends and i made the flanges from 1/2 flat stock , round my own cones for the collectors . mig welded the flanges to the tubes and just plan old gas welded the tubes together did some scuff pad buff'n , still have to do some finish welding but there were they need to be . granted it's not as tight as an a bodies . but its just a repair . get some j bends and build another tube or fix that one .

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Nice work. Too bad your.3000 mi away or I'd hire.you lol
 
Consider the technique used in auto body repair where a pad is welded to the panel and the dent pulled out, then the tab is cut off. Heating the area will make it move easily. I’ve got a set of 1 3/4” Hookers for my E-body that will get this treatment. I’ll use long rods through the port openings where I can. If it’s on a straight section I would rather cut out and splice in a patch.
Klekos or Clecko’s. Or something like that.
 
yes you could cut out the side thats bent and straighten them out and weld it back up . i jacked my header collector on my 64 d100 then i drove over a curb inland . it came lose from the exhaust and made quite a bit of noise , wife was shock how much noise it made , just a heated up 383 .

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I have a set of Hooker 5303 1-7/8 headers on my small block A Body drag car. The left side tubes got bent up from getting snagged on the trailer. I'd like to replace these tubes if anyone has them but since that's a slim chance, I'm looking into repairing these. I'd like to hear any tips and tricks on repairing Header tubes.

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If you have a stud welder for dent removal, weld a couple studs on where you think will do the best for pulling the dent. After you get the studs on heat it with a torch, then grind the studs off....very very simple repair.
 
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