Horrible hard clutch pedal after hydraulic install

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340plot

340plot

the bushy bush
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i for the life of me, can barly opuch my pedal to the floor. it is so hard. i have like 4 inches of travel on the clutch master cylinder, and i hooked up a clutch pedal stop, but it is so hard to pus, it is bending the pedal.

i do not have the hump weled to the floor, so i can see it moving through the whole trave, but should it be this hard?



any idea?
 
NO!!!!! should be really smooth and "soft"... check your linkage for something binding...

is it hard from the second you press on the pedal or ok then gets hard in an inch or so?
 
Something is wrong. The one in my Dart & my truck are pretty easy to press down, and VERY smooth.
If it was me, I wouldn't keep mashing it down until the problem is found.

George
 
340plot said:
any idea?
Click to expand...


YES


Not long ago you admonished "us" to STFU and not answer a question to which we do not know the answer

But this is a question that can NOT be answered with the information you have given

Did it ever work right?

Is this something new you have just installed?

What sort of "setup" is it, I.E. is this something you bought "that is designed" for this type of setup, or is it a junkyard Toy, Datsun, etc?

Hydraulic clutches are "simple"

You must take into account:

1 the leverage of the clutch fork, which is difficult or impossible to change

2 the leverage of the pedal, might also be difficult or impossible to change

3 the diameter of the slave cylinder, larger bore = less travel, less effort

4 the diameter of the master, smaller bore = less travel, less effort

6 the pressure plate: most diaphragm clutches need less effort, most B&B need more, some need a LOT of effort

7 I suppose it's possible that you have something in the tube/ hose, probably doubtful, but aren't you "over there?" Have you used components of the marvelous "Girling" system, which (at least used to) require special brake fluid, otherwise the brake cups will expand and self destruct

8 as mentioned, something bent/ binding/ out of line
 
the pedal is soft the first little bit, then becomes too hard to push. but when i get that little movement, it does not move the slave rod
 
67Dart273 said:
YES


Not long ago you admonished "us" to STFU and not answer a question to which we do not know the answer

But this is a question that can NOT be answered with the information you have given

Did it ever work right?

Is this something new you have just installed?

What sort of "setup" is it, I.E. is this something you bought "that is designed" for this type of setup, or is it a junkyard Toy, Datsun, etc?

Hydraulic clutches are "simple"

You must take into account:

1 the leverage of the clutch fork, which is difficult or impossible to change

2 the leverage of the pedal, might also be difficult or impossible to change

3 the diameter of the slave cylinder, larger bore = less travel, less effort

4 the diameter of the master, smaller bore = less travel, less effort

6 the pressure plate: most diaphragm clutches need less effort, most B&B need more, some need a LOT of effort

7 I suppose it's possible that you have something in the tube/ hose, probably doubtful, but aren't you "over there?" Have you used components of the marvelous "Girling" system, which (at least used to) require special brake fluid, otherwise the brake cups will expand and self destruct

8 as mentioned, something bent/ binding/ out of line
Click to expand...





it is the chucksclassics setup, with the pull style slave. i bought the kit used from a member on here..

i used dot 3 like the master cylinder says. i checked for binding, but there is none. i took the lower cover off 4- speed, and the t.o.b is in place correctly.. then i took the slave rod off at the clutch fork side, and the slave works fine. the clutch is the 3 finget type where it rides on the t.o.b.

it seems like this clutch needs so much to pull the clutch fork.

cause when i mash the pedal as hard as i can, it works pefectly, just too damn hard
 
340plot said:
it is the chucksclassics setup, with the pull style slave. i bought the kit used from a member on here..

i used dot 3 like the master cylinder says. i checked for binding, but there is none. i took the lower cover off 4- speed, and the t.o.b is in place correctly.. then i took the slave rod off at the clutch fork side, and the slave works fine. the clutch is the 3 finget type where it rides on the t.o.b.

it seems like this clutch needs so much to pull the clutch fork.

cause when i mash the pedal as hard as i can, it works pefectly, just too damn hard
Click to expand...

well undo the slave from the fork and it it is really easy to move with the pedal then you know is from the fork to clutch area...
 
805moparkid said:
well undo the slave from the fork and it it is really easy to move with the pedal then you know is from the fork to clutch area...
Click to expand...


yes, i took it off, and it works fine that way. but i pulled the fork out, and checked everything. there is no issues that are apparent. could it just be that it is a heavey duty clutch. the previous owner told me it was
 
Did it ever work with the mechanical linkage?

I can only see 3 possibilities…….

1. It is working but you are trying to over travel the clutch fork.
2. You have it set up wrong and you are pushing the TO bearing towards the trans not the clutch.
3. Something is wrong inside the bell-housing.
 
340plot said:
yes, i took it off, and it works fine that way. but i pulled the fork out, and checked everything. there is no issues that are apparent. could it just be that it is a heavey duty clutch. the previous owner told me it was
Click to expand...

sound likte heavy clutch or below

1968FormulaS340 said:
Did it ever work with the mechanical linkage?

I can only see 3 possibilities…….

1. It is working but you are trying to over travel the clutch fork.
2. You have it set up wrong and you are pushing the TO bearing towards the trans not the clutch.
3. Something is wrong inside the bell-housing.
Click to expand...
 
1968FormulaS340 said:
Did it ever work with the mechanical linkage?

I can only see 3 possibilities…….

1. It is working but you are trying to over travel the clutch fork.
2. You have it set up wrong and you are pushing the TO bearing towards the trans not the clutch.
3. Something is wrong inside the bell-housing.
Click to expand...

.i have it set with no freeplay on the clutchfork.
i had to just run out and check, but it is pulling the clutchfork the right way
i took the dust cover off, and had friend push clutch, and it all works. there is no binding in the bell-housing.

just a hard pedal. if it was not bled totally correct, could it be trying to compress air?
 
340plot said:
towards the trans
Click to expand...

ok so the unit is working in the correct direction... so either the clutch is to hand (doubt it) or the bore is wrong(doubt that to)

you said air in the line?? think of brakes... air = soft squishy pedal...

did you make sure the slave has enough "throw" to make the distance?? might be mounted to far away
 
i had a problem two years ago with a used pressure plate
from a friend..turned out to be bolt stuck inside the finger area.
 
the slave has enough throw, cause it has about a 3 inch area of adjustment.
i put a spring on the fork to hold it to the back of the car, hooked up the fork end, and then on the bracket side that mounts to the trans, i made it to where it was just tight. no too much. then i took the spring off, and used it from the fork, to near the starter. . i basically uased the spring to put the fork under tension while i set up the adjustment
 
mrbill00 said:
i had a problem two years ago with a used pressure plate
from a friend..turned out to be bolt stuck inside the finger area.
Click to expand...

this engine and trans were rebuilt, and this is the clutch that was in it, and i can see that it has plenty of life left. i was told it was replaced whet it was overhauled
 
Could be an obstruction in the hyd line between the master cyl and slave. How and where is the master cyl connected to the pedal? The ratio could be too far off.
 
it is about 3.5 inchs down from the pivot point. some say in needs to be like 2 inches down, buti mounted it where everything lined up, with the spacer and bolt that goes through the pedal. i mounted the clutch master in the hole where the emergency brake cable came through the floor
 
UPDATE..................................

so, i got so frustrated with the hydraulic setup, i yanked it all off, modified my own z-bar, hooked up all linkage,,,,, and....................... the pedal is still so stiff. :(:(:(:(

so, looks like i gots to pull the tranny back out.

is it easier to take the bellhousing with it? or leave the bell in the car?
 
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