horsepower estimates.

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prochamp98

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Its hard to determine HP without using a dyno, but is there a way to get close figures. I got a 72 360 LA bored 4.040 with stock stroke eagle crankshaft, using eagle I beam rods and mahle forged flat top pistons. Chart on the pistons showed 10.5 with 63 cc heads. The block had about .003 taken off just to get it trued up on all the bores. I installed edelbrock rpm performer heads with 63 cc chambers using .039 head gasket with rpm air gap intake. NO porting done. Comp hydro cam with duration 244@ 50 degrees on intake and exhaust. .501 LIFT intake and exhaust. Running comp rockers 5.1 ratio. TTI 5/8"- 3/4" STEP HEADERS. open exhaust, strip only. Small crank pulley with alt belt only. Running electric water pump. I am wanting to order a converter and I know they will ask some questions. Car weighs 2,740 minus driver, 2,920 my weight included. 4.10 GEAR 10" WIDE 26" tall tires. Running a cope racing transmission with manual rear band apply valve body and steel billet front drum.
 
For ten dollars, I can get real close on Desktop Dyno. The more info you give me about the build the closer it will be. It will be 5 pages of information emailed in a PDF file. I have done it for many members here who seem to be happy with the outcome.
 
RustyRatRod said:
For ten dollars, I can get real close on Desktop Dyno. The more info you give me about the build the closer it will be. It will be 5 pages of information emailed in a PDF file. I have done it for many members here who seem to be happy with the outcome.
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This, he knows what he is actually doing...
 
I can probably learn a lot after I get it to a strip. Just need to order a converter. I've never ordered a custom converter before. Are they pretty good at estimating what I need with the engine specs I can give them? I scaled the car so I know I will be accurate on that. People tell me they will ask me everthing but the color LOL. Just can't wait to see what this car is going to do. Its been a 10 year project. Won a championship back in 1998 with this car when it barely made pro class. IT ran 8.80s 1/8 mile. It was pretty much stock back then.
 
Bet it is close to the 340 I had built I got 419 hp 439 tq , you will probably get a bit more . I'll run what you gave through the dyno program , it was pretty close to actual dyno results on my build , within 5 to 10 hp .
 
70aarcuda said:
run it down the drag strip......
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X 10 ^^^ your going to be winding it up pretty good by the 1/4 mile with 4 10's and 26 inch tires.
who cares about hp - what does the time slip say !?? Spend ten dollars in fuel at the race track and learn something about your car. Have fun .....
 
If the heads are out of the box stock, and assuming the valve springs you used match the camshaft, not the ones that came on them - I'd say in the neighborhood of 400-425. The heads don't flow what Edelbrock claims unless you fix thier valve job, and you're not opening the valve far enough or for long enough, to make real use of the port. Figure a max flow of 200-205cfm at your cam's longer duration and about 70% lift figure. Double that is about max for that package assuming the machine work and assembly is at least average.
 
Mopar I am gonna run them the rest of the year without any valve work done, but would like to get a close match on the springs comp calls for. I been worried about the valve springs. Don't know what to get for the eddy's. Got the comp cam springs that came with the kit and they are way smaller in diameter. Also we tested them and they don't come close to what comp says on the seat load. Supposed to be 115@ 1.7 installed height. They were 80@ 1.7. My buddy thought his spring tester was screwy, he had a brand new set of mopar performance springs still in the box and we checked one of them and it was dead on the money for what that spring chart says they are.
 
By the way the mopar springs we tested was for a project my buddy is working on. Thought about calling comp, but if those springs are that far off it makes me nervous. The only reason I bought a complete set I was gonna use J heads, but decided they needed a lot of work. The last valve job done on the j head was cut way to deep on the intake's and was gonna have to step up the size to get them right.
 
I'm going to say around 400hp. My 340 with Curtis Boggs ported Edelbrocks, a larger hydraulic cam, 11.4-1 compression, Weiand X-Cellerator intake, 727, 4.30 gears and a 275 radial ran 7.24 @ 92mph in the 1/8th. It was 3240# at the time, IIRC the Wallace calculator put it in the 450 range.

Andre at Edge Racing converters did the converter. The 340 went 1.52-53 60', I sent it back after building my 408 and had it reconfigured and it went 1.38 at the same weight until the 408 killed it. My $1250 Ultimate Converter Concepts converter has never been in the 1.30s or low .40s for that matter.

BTW both converters were built without any dyno numbers.
 
justinp61 said:
I'm going to say around 400hp. My 340 with Curtis Boggs ported Edelbrocks, a larger hydraulic cam, 11.4-1 compression, Weiand X-Cellerator intake, 727, 4.30 gears and a 275 radial ran 7.24 @ 92mph in the 1/8th. It was 3240# at the time, IIRC the Wallace calculator put it in the 450 range.

Andre at Edge Racing converters did the converter. The 340 went 1.52-53 60', I sent it back after building my 408 and had it reconfigured and it went 1.38 at the same weight until the 408 killed it. My $1250 Ultimate Converter Concepts converter has never been in the 1.30s or low .40s for that matter.

BTW both converters were built without any dyno numbers.
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Your HP computed from your vehicle ET is 450.22 flywheel HP and 405.20 rear wheel HP.
Your HP computed from your vehicle MPH is 392.08 flywheel HP and 352.87 rear wheel HP.
 
540Valiant said:
7.80's in the mid 90's! Would be my guess!
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Well I decided to use a TCI converter I have had sitting around for years. It is a 10" and it had the part number stamped on it. I googled the part number and read the specs. 3000 Stall. Took the car to the 1/8 mile strip. ET 7.36- 60 foot 1.61- mph 93. Really wanted to match a converter with the car, but got in a hurry. Don't know if those numbers would improve much with a matched converter or not. A good converter will cost a $1000. Made 5 passes with the car. There was a strong head wind to begin the day. 1st pass 7.41 2nd pass 7.40. The wind died down, everyone was running about 4 numbers faster. 3rd pass 7.37 4th 7.37 broke out when the car ran its 5th pass 7.368 on a 7.37 dial.
 
There's at least a .10 or more in 60 ft with a good converter.

My car runs 1.48-1.52 60 foot times in the heat, and has been 1.42 in good weather. 7 teens to 7 twenties at 93 in the heat.
I have an 8" ATI converter I had spec'd for a 72 stock eliminator Duster. Flash stalls around 5600 to 5800 depending on weather.

Easily the best money I've spent on the car.
 
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