How did you pick your torque converter?

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Rice Nuker said:
I made the mistake of buying a higher stall when I went thru the trans, with the "intention" of rebuilding the engine with big ported heads, 2.5 - 6K cam shafts, open exhaust. Then I just never did. I drove the vehicle with a loose converter and stock engine and it took all the torque out of the lower rpm range of the engine and made the vehicle very sluggish.
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It's also common for the convertor companies to hear "drag race" when you drive the car on the street for 5K miles a year and race it once a summer. As Joe said - be honest. I've sent 4 Dynmaics back over the years for being too loose because they heard "drag race" when it was primarilly a street car and felt like a turd and wasted a lot of gas making noise and heat when cruising around. Most were the "9.5 - 3500-3800 flash stall" that I had them tighten to 2500-2800.
 
i'm not all that up on the 300 cratebut sounds like you'll be fine though with a stock converter for now to get you by. may not be 100% ideal but should work ok.. if your going 4 speed down the road i wouldn't bother buying a good converter at all..
 
I would not put an old converter behind a fresh rebuild trans.
I would have a converter built for your future plans, and run it.
Camshafts are alot easier to change out than trans.
 
MRGTX said:
Thanks for the input...

Thsi is a street driven car that I'd like to bring to the strip a few times/summer...so it's not necessarily going to be the hottest small block on the planet. However, I would prefer a well matched, good performing unit so I'm leaning towards holding off for now...

...so what would happen if I ran the stock 318 torque converter? Would the car be drivable?
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It would be drivable, but sluggish (depending on the cam/compression/ low end torque), that's all.

It's a pain to swap the converter after the engine and trans are already in, though. Not impossible, but a pain.
 
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