how do you make 550+hp hook on the street ??

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j par

j par

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I sure don't know how to. I can't even get 400 horsepower to hook on the Dragstrip. Of course my suspension is crap and I don't expect it to But there seems to be some here that thing they know the way and I would be more than interested and hearing about it. As of now I think I have about 375 horsepower to the back tires and cannot keep them from spinning no matter what. Of course I get a bit better traction when I drive my wrinkled walls on the street but that's always a slippery slope because one they're illegal on the street and two if I ever get something in one of the Slicks then both of them or junk and I'm into it another $500 every time I get a hole in a tire. It's not like I can just put a plug in it.
 
J par, watch your videos, you don't get your tires hot. Your slicks are worthless without heat.
watch this duster heat up poly street tires......
 
I think more information is needed. What suspension are you running, tire pressures etc
 
All the newer "muscle cars" have at least 375 net HP (many have way more). Even with the traction control disabled you've gotta try to bust em loose. Your guess is as good as mine as to why that is. Weight, suspension, tires, smooth power curve?
 
318willrun said:
J par, watch your videos, you don't get your tires hot. Your slicks are worthless without heat.
watch this duster heat up poly street tires......
Click to expand...


Those guys have mega bucks into suspension! Rollerized bushings etc. ceramic bearings..... the list goes on.
 
younggun2.0 said:
Those guys have mega bucks into suspension! Rollerized bushings etc. ceramic bearings..... the list goes on.
Click to expand...
I know, but I was pointing out the burnout only. How to properly heat tires. Watch the video of that Duster's burnout and heating the tires verse the video I posted of J par's duster doing a burnout.
 
Gotcha, what tire is he running? Old? New? My mickeys where amazing when new. After a full season racing and street driving they lost a bit of grip
 
You need two things. First, a traction device on the rear axle that helps torque the rear end downwards.
Working with that, you need a front end that is willing to rise.
The age old, time proven setup for a Mopar front end is Six Cylinder torsion bars, drilled or dead front shocks, remove the lower control arm snubbers (cutting the plate off the frame rail is even better),/and if you have a sway bar, toss it.
One thing that helped back when I was street racing on particularly snotty surfaces was to use an air shock on the right rear side to help preload the suspension..pretty much the same thing as using SS springs, but fully adjustable.
If the car is set up correctly, it should be 1 to two inches higher on the right rear than left, and the front of the rocker should be 1 to 2 inches lower than the rear.
This was the basic setup for Pro Stock in 1970, and it works just as well today.
 
I just watched the video of the green car. I think you know what the problem is. There's no way you're gonna hook up any HP with the rear suspension doing that.
 
Just from watching the video.... Line lock to properly heat up the tires....(that was weak sauce) and better rear shocks would probably make a huge difference. What air pressure you running?
 
o1heavy said:
Caltracs Traction problems are a thing of the past for mine
Click to expand...
Caltracks are a great option for anything but an unbraced 8.75
Put enough power through it for any amount of time and it WILL twist and distort the housing.
Get into any real horsepower, and the front of the housing will pull away at the bottom
For an 8.75, the snubber is still king. Always will be.
 
ToMang07 said:
Just from watching the video.... Line lock to properly heat up the tires....(that was weak sauce) and better rear shocks would probably make a huge difference. What air pressure you running?
Click to expand...
definitely need to hold it in the water till they start smoking, then let it roll out slowly till they start tryin to hook and let off. line lock is invaluable ! unless you want to burn ur rear brakes up doing burnpouts. 2nd gear to start, then maybe even 3rd gear .
 
Jpar, what suspension parts and set up do you have now?
 
A trunk full of cement or broken Chevy connecting rods should do the trick.
 
Tires.
Shocks (double adjustable or you are wasting your money).
Clutch tune up.
Cal Trac or similar bars.



Done.
 
You mentioned wrinkle walls, but not drag radials. I run drag radials on the street. They don't require as much heat to grip as wrinkle walls, and even without a burnout grip better than any normal street tire. I run Mickey Thompsons.

672-3452.jpg
 
I'm on my lunch break at work and I read a couple post and I better get this thread in the correct direction. I was asking how YOU get 550 horsepower to hook on the STREET? Wasn't asking for opinions on how to get my drag car to hook on the race track. And I've done the big nasty Smokey burnouts chew up my tires and they don't get me any faster or better 60 foot time then just getting water off them and heating them up slightly. When you call Hoosier tires and ask them or get on their website they said to heat them up really good the first pass and then just clean them off after that the rest of the day. If this makes sense good I'm voice commanding and have to go back to work get with you guys in for 5 hours
 
j par said:
I'm on my lunch break at work and I read a couple post and I better get this thread in the correct direction. I was asking how YOU get 550 horsepower to hook on the STREET? Wasn't asking for opinions on how to get my drag car to hook on the race track. And I've done the big nasty Smokey burnouts chew up my tires and they don't get me any faster or better 60 foot time then just getting water off them and heating them up slightly. When you call Hoosier tires and ask them or get on their website they said to heat them up really good the first pass and then just clean them off after that the rest of the day. If this makes sense good I'm voice commanding and have to go back to work get with you guys in for 5 hours
Click to expand...
Hey, get back to work...millions on welfare depend on you
 
I am not trying to sound mean or anything, but sometimes you have to DRIVE the car. Leave at a lower RPM and ROLL into the throttle. Sometime, cars need more power to hook. I know this sounds contradictory but I had a car that would spin MT 10.5 ET Streets (bias plies) on motor, but when I sprayed it off the line it dead hooked!
 
Okay boss stepped out the door that I can play on the phone for 2 minutes here but not for long because I'm not a slacker. Suspension is junk 002 and 003 Springs with cheap Summit drag shocks independent down traction bars . Junk junk junk but this question on the street. people that are building 550 Plus horsepower street cars . I'm asking what sense is this much power if it cannot connect with the street ? Or if it does connect to the street please do tell ? ="rumblefish360, post: 1971597860, member: 1189"]Jpar, what suspension parts and set up do you have now?[/QUOTE]
 
J par, I don't know your car but believe your running a 4 speed. The streets a different animal. I spent some time getting my 4 spd Duster to hook on the street, as that's where the money was. This was before all the trick suspension and drag radials available today. As others have posted here the old school stuff still works today. My set up was simple. Front end, six cyl torsion bars, no sway bar and 90/10 shocks. Front end was loose, no fresh bushings. LIGHT aluminum flywheel with metallic disc and Hayes pressure plate rebuilt by local shop. Rear, 4-spd super stock springs with a pinion snubber adjusted close to floor. Over the counter cheap shocks with extensions. 5.13 gear. Like I said drag radials were not around so instead of slicks I ran Hoosier dirt track treaded tires. 13x29.5 as I had the springs moved in. The car was a bear on the street and hooked very well. Good luck with yours, would be interested in hearing more about your combo.
 
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