How do you open a starter?

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J

jdavis2

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Seriously, I've electrically opened two starters in the last month. I was starting the car ('64 Valiant, 225 /6), the starter solenoid pulled in but the starter didn't spin. Pulled the starter off and read open between the started stud and the case. The solenoid read about 1 ohm between the the stud and case. Took that starter back to store and bought a new (remanufactured) one. Same thing happened. I was trying to fix the fuel leak on the float bowl so I was expiermenting. I started the car about a dozen times and all of the sudden. Clunk! The solenoid pulled in but no starter. Removed starter and again it was open.
Any ideas ??? What gets me is these things take a boat load of current all the time. I would have thought I would have burned something else up before opening the starter. Now I'm afraid to replace the starter before finding the problem. I imagine they'll only take back so many "lifetime guarantee" starters in a month before they figure out I have an electrical problem somewhere.
Jeff
 
You wouldn't be the first to get back to back crap in reman'd starters.
 
"Remanufactured" parts are garbage; "Lifetime Warranty" means you spend your lifetime replacing unreliable parts under warranty. Stop buying them and you'll stop having problems. There is no "electrical problem somewhere" causing the starters to fail.

You can get a brand new (NOS) Chrysler starter from Old Car Parts Northwest, or you can swap on the later-model mini starter (see here).
 
I don't think you can break a starter as you are describing "from other problems."

Maybe gear teeth/ tearing up the drive / severe kick back on timing, but not as you describe.

Only spec I could find on the solenoid is 13.3A to 14.9A for the pull in coil at 6V
8-9A for hold in at 6V

I guess you must understand about the extra solenoid wire for the pull in winding.
 
I had a similar problem on my pickup. Replaced the starter with a remanufactured and it failed in a day, got the warranty replacement and it failed in a couple of days, Got another and it didn't work on installation. I took it back and had to throw a fit to get my money back but eventually did so but they claimed they no longer had my core so I could get it rebuilt. I went to the local wrecking yard and bought a used starter and it's been working fine for a couple of years. I've come to believe that "Reman" is synonomous with "poor repaint job. I've found that my success rate with remanufactured has drastically decreased in th past few years. I suggest that your problem is in the starters you are getting.
 
If you are fortunate enough not to have discarded or traded in an original un"remanufactured" starter, disassembly/reassembly guide is here.
 
or, i have a mini starter out of a 00 jeep grand cherokee that will fit right in and is smaller. 50.00 shipped to you
 
Thanks all. I'm feeling alot better about the whole situation now. I don't have an original that I can have rewound but will definently look into an alternative to the reman. junk
Jeff
 
Good info from Dan.

I've never taken apart a starter. I've always bought a new one.

I might have been able to fix some of them if I knew at the time...saved some money too.
 
I worked at a place when I was young that re-manufactured starters and alternators...keep in mind this was the early 80's when shiz got done in the USA still.

The rebuild consists of disassembly of housing.
Testing the field coil.
Testing the armature.
Checking the brushes.
Blow out the housing with compressed air.
Spritz bushings with lithium grease.
Reassembly.
Paint with black rustolium.
New sticker and new box and out the door.

So why did they go bad in the first place?

Who knows...those just got thrown on a pile and sent to scrap...we only re-manufactured the one's that weren't bad. :toothy10:

Mop
 
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