How easy to get 500 horsepower w/ stock stroke 440?

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JGC403

JGC403

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Is it possible to get to 500hp/tq with a stock stroke 440 and have smooth idle, pulling around 15inHg? What will it take?
 
Depending on Year of Motor your starting with, Really easy to get that power, 1 of the most underated motors out there in my opinion, they rated that motor from Years 66 to 70-71 at 375 HP for Insurance Purposes, I have an true first gen 440, it was actually built in 1965, didn't even have 440 heads on it, infact it had 383 heads on it according to the books, this was real common when they first was introducing it to dealers as an engine option, my 440 was built for these same target numbers, 500 HP 500 TQ, my machine shops is pretty confident it will dyno in on those numbers just haven't had time to do that, I'm really sure you can hit your target really easy!!!!!!!
 
d55dave said:
Are 383 heads and 440 beads not the same?
Click to expand...

Can be, will interchange. Just like all the rest of the mopar family there are better castings,
I got over 500 hp and almost 500 ft lb on my 440 build. Was years ago and I cant tell you what did tho. Sorry
 
A well blueprinted short block, near zero deck. GOOD headwork, some good porting ,and a matching cam choice. Or a turbo setup.
 
Abodybomber said:
A well blueprinted short block, near zero deck. GOOD headwork, some good porting ,and a matching cam choice. Or a turbo setup.
Click to expand...

Im actually going to turbo my 440 soon! I guess id better get rid of those drum brakes! MT:)
 
It's posible for sure but you will need good flowing heads like well worked 906/915 or a good set of aftermarket aluminum heads.
And a somewhat hot cam, at least 238 @.050 with some good lift.
 
Most likely every question can be had in search. How old is this forum?

So why post a question on anything?

Forum would die out because everything has been covered.

I think it is good to ask questions.
 
It's good to ask questions, when it moves the forum forward on questions that haven't been asked a ton, redundant. Especially when it was just covered.
 
It's a little different, when asking for 15" of idle vacuum. Let him learn,on his own,it's why we come here.
 
I would say you might want to solicit the advice of someone like MRL...one of his hallmarks is making good hp, with a very livable idle (which includes decent idle vacuum). Much of that requirement will deal specifically with a combination of static compression ratio, cam timing events/profiles, and how well your heads flow...but you probably already knew that.

EDIT: oops! I just saw the link poison posted...the 440 MRL just put together drew 15" Hg w/o vacuum advance, 19" with...think the OP might have an example of what works there...
 
JGC403 said:
Is it possible to get to 500hp/tq with a stock stroke 440 and have smooth idle, pulling around 15inHg? What will it take?
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Go with 10.5 compression, Edelbrock RPM heads, RPM intake and RPM cam, you will get 500HP with around 530 Ft lbs.
 
Yes, it can be done. No - you don't have to run MRL's hydraulic rollers or have a 900rpm idle speed, or run your vacuum advance off manifold vaccum. Yes, you will need to spend money on good parts and really good machining. That beign said, dollar for dollar, a longer stroke engine will be within $1000 of the 440's cost, and make a lot more torque at a lower and more usable rpm range. So if you're going to spend...
 
I sincerely hope you weren't taking my comment to mean he "had" to use Mike's methodology...just suggesting he could see how little it takes in the way of matched parts to reach that goal.
 
10.5:1
242/528/112 cam
ported RPM Heads
1:6 rockers
RPm intake
950 HP carb
HVH Super sucker spacer
2" or 2.125 headers

500hp/547tq

Unsure of vacuum at idle but the idle was very mild and would idle down to 600 if you wanted it to.
 
PoisonDart74 said:
http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=315903

Take a look around before you post. This is on the first page of this forum.....
Click to expand...


I was at work on my lunch break I wanted to make a post to help get me thinking. I did do a search and that one didn't come up. I may have been to specific in my search. But now that I see it I do remember reading it before a week ago or so.

Anyways I can use that as a idea of what I need. But since 500 horsepower is so easy I might get a little greedy and want more. 530 horsepower would get me close to the same power-to-weight ratio as the Hellcat Challenger.

I had the idea to modernize the 440. I want to fuel inject it. Then I read about the articles that they are doing just that in Mopar Action Magazine. So coil on plug has me thinking now to.

I don't want to stroke it, I would like to keep the cubic inches down to help with fuel economy. Not expecting amazing MPG, but I am keeping that in mind so can pass a gas station every now and then. And will be using 3.23 rear gears.

What I have is a 1978 stock short block, so its has a cast crank. Needs to be bored out, It has been sitting in the garage for over 10 years, and there is a coating of rust on the bores and the decks.

Would like to use aluminum heads, hydraulic roller cam, HD stamped steel rockers (lightweight), 0 deck the block for quench, around 10.0:1 compression.

Should I recondition the stock rods or get new ones? Will the factory cast crank survive?
 
A couple thoughts based on your comments. EFI will help with the streetability. Good call there. As will a modern engine management system (assumed on that one that it's part of the EFi package). But - fuel economy has to do with efficiency at (usually) a narrower rpm range because its miles per gallon. If you want big torque, and not have to work the engine as hard (meaning turn a higher rpm to reach that output), then bigger is better, and the result will be more efficient at a lighter throttle. I think stamped rockers are a mistake with any type of roller lifter. The static compression will be whatever depending on your hard parts choices and setup. Personally I like dished pistons, smaller chambers, and I bring the pistons proud of the deck - not flush. Reconditioned rods will work with good bolts and pin bushings, but new rods will be stronger for a little more cash. Just make sure you have the new ones looked at unless you spend the bigger dollars. Cast crank will work, but will be an internal balance challenge (read that as probably will need a little more $$ to internally balance). But you won't break it.
 
If you have the means, I read that the FAST EFI setups are very versatile and intuitive to tune...similar results for the Edelbrock one, but I believe it may be a touch higher on teh price. Pretty much any one of the newer generation TBI style, self-learning systems will serve you well for your purpose I bet. One thing that hasn't made it into the conversation yet is maybe setting up for an OD transmission...that will go leaps and bounds for increasing your mile per gallon when cruising above about 35-40, depending on your axle ratio.

But, I'll echo a few others on here--if you build it using good parts, and correct methods you'll be rewarded by a strong running big block--regardless of the number it puts down.
 
JGC403 said:
I was at work on my lunch break I wanted to make a post to help get me thinking. I did do a search and that one didn't come up. I may have been to specific in my search. But now that I see it I do remember reading it before a week ago or so.

Anyways I can use that as a idea of what I need. But since 500 horsepower is so easy I might get a little greedy and want more. 530 horsepower would get me close to the same power-to-weight ratio as the Hellcat Challenger.

I had the idea to modernize the 440. I want to fuel inject it. Then I read about the articles that they are doing just that in Mopar Action Magazine. So coil on plug has me thinking now to.

I don't want to stroke it, I would like to keep the cubic inches down to help with fuel economy. Not expecting amazing MPG, but I am keeping that in mind so can pass a gas station every now and then. And will be using 3.23 rear gears.

What I have is a 1978 stock short block, so its has a cast crank. Needs to be bored out, It has been sitting in the garage for over 10 years, and there is a coating of rust on the bores and the decks.

Would like to use aluminum heads, hydraulic roller cam, HD stamped steel rockers (lightweight), 0 deck the block for quench, around 10.0:1 compression.

Should I recondition the stock rods or get new ones? Will the factory cast crank survive?
Click to expand...

I would buy some new rods(and have them checked)for piece of mind.The cast crank can easily handle the power you are looking for but it would be easier to balance with a steel crank and no need for a weighted flexplate to run a neutral balance converter.

Good aluminum heads(ported a plus as airflow will make everything easier) and a small/medium hyd roller should get you your goal easily with better driveability and less octane requirement.10.00-1 is fine and consider some roller rockers as well.A good dual plane (rpm) intake and a minimum of 750 carb will get you there with room to spare.
 
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