No this isn't a *** rated question. How hot should your rear get with normal driving? I took my car out for about 15 miles and brought it home and put it on the lift. The rear end was hot enough that I couldn't hold my hand on it. As I worked my way down the axle tubes it got better. I can't say I have ever done this before so I don't know how hot is acceptable but this seemed to hot to me.
how hot should my rear be?
- Thread starter freshayr
- Start date
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fishy68
Tyr Fryr's Inc.
That sounds pretty darn hot for just a 15 mile trip unless your in a real hot area. Since you don't have your area listed I can't tell that.
Have you checked the gear lube level lately? Could be low and not supplying the wheel bearings properly. This would explain the heat being concentrated more on the outer ends of the axle tubes.
Have you checked the gear lube level lately? Could be low and not supplying the wheel bearings properly. This would explain the heat being concentrated more on the outer ends of the axle tubes.
Mopower71
Speed Demon
Check and see if the yoke on the rear is loose.
I lost the pinion bearing on mine, and it was real hot like yours.
The yoke kept loosening.
I lost the pinion bearing on mine, and it was real hot like yours.
The yoke kept loosening.
Mopower71
Speed Demon
Where in upstate NY?
340mopar
Sorgermotorsports
On an 8 3/4 gear oil does not supply the wheel bearings and I assume this is the kind of rear we are talking about. There is a seal in the housing ends that keep oil from getting to the bearings. The bearings, if stock tapered bearings are just greased like the fronts. If you have green bearings they are greased and sealed at the manufacturer.
hemifish69
Dain bramaged Hemi freak
Actually, heat in the center section is not automatically a bad thing. When I put a Dana 60 in this past July, I checked it after a run, found it hot and ran to my guy who set up the gears. This is a shop that does A LOT of commercial work. He told me that 100+F is normal. Change the fluid, put a magnet in the housing, look for big chunks, or a loose yoke like one of our posters above said, but don't panic.
PS the dana shop manual states that it should reach operating tems once every two weeks min just to keep water vapor out of the housing. That tells me they expect temps high enuf to boil out water during normal ops. should hold true for 8.75s or other rears. :wack:
PS the dana shop manual states that it should reach operating tems once every two weeks min just to keep water vapor out of the housing. That tells me they expect temps high enuf to boil out water during normal ops. should hold true for 8.75s or other rears. :wack:
Stormin' ..I am right off the NYS thruway in Farmngton.
I spoke with the guy who built my motor (who is a great mechanic) and the guy that built the rear. Both guys agreed that it sounded hotter than it should but nobody could really say for sure how hot is to hot. The guy that rebuilt the rear suggested that I change out the 80-90w NAPA gear oil that I put in for synthetic 80-140. He said he does alot with race cars and they now for a fact that the synthetic reduces the heat. (I am not worried about the heat so much as what's causing the heat) He also said that maybe it needs to break in a little....there is less than 200 miles on the rear. I will also check my backlash.
I spoke with the guy who built my motor (who is a great mechanic) and the guy that built the rear. Both guys agreed that it sounded hotter than it should but nobody could really say for sure how hot is to hot. The guy that rebuilt the rear suggested that I change out the 80-90w NAPA gear oil that I put in for synthetic 80-140. He said he does alot with race cars and they now for a fact that the synthetic reduces the heat. (I am not worried about the heat so much as what's causing the heat) He also said that maybe it needs to break in a little....there is less than 200 miles on the rear. I will also check my backlash.
fishy68
Tyr Fryr's Inc.
Ok. Sorry I must have not understood your meaning of where you meant it was getting hot. I know it's alot of work to check the backlash and stuff out on a 8-3/4 since you have to yank the center chunk out but if that synthetic lube don't cool things down I'd recommend it. It kinda sounds like the guy got something too tight. That could eventually lead to a catastrophic failure if not remedied properly.freshayr said:
Thanks 340Mopar for the clarification of the style of bearings used in a 8-3/4. I haven't been into one yet and just assumed they were fed by the gear lube.
69signetv8
Well-Known Member
How hot should your "rear" be....*** rated or not, best ask the wife fishy68 
(I had to) :booty:
(I had to) :booty:
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