How many using an A500 overdrive ?

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This is only the OD-unit being offered, as shown.
That won't work for you. You need the complete transmission.
 
The RE series are fully electronic. You need a stand-alone computer to make them function.
I had a 46RE for sale for awhile here...It was a rebuilt unit with an expensive converter and I was lucky to get $200 for it.
Hold out for a RH unit.
 
I'm about to install my A500
Just putting in new clutches and doing the transgo tfod-hd2 shiftkit.
Then I can actually start the swap.
 
I’m working on getting my 46rh ready as well but I have a question on piping up the pressure switches. Do the OD and LU switches need to be grounded to the transmission through the pressure port piping? I hope I’m sayoing this right. If I use brass fittings to pipe my pressure switches and use thread sealant is that ok? Are npt brass fitting threads self sealing? Just wondering because the pressure switch needs the ground wire attached to complete the circuit to activate the solenoid correct? So does the switch base need to be grounded to the transmission case?
Any pictures would be greatly appreciated.

Will start a new thread to address these head scratching questions.
 
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jas0162 said:
Iv ran an a500 in my 68 more door for a few years and love it. Did nothing to the floor and used all the shift/throttle linkage from the 904. Had to cut the driveshaft and redo the crossmember. I run 3.23 gears and usually get about 20 mpg driving 70-80 mph with a stock 318
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So, you didn’t have to alter the upper part of the cross member like everyone says you have to? I’m building a 67 convertible and don’t really want to alter my upper part of the cross member if I don’t have to
 
I didn’t see how it could be done without cutting out the crossmember. I cut it Out and welded in a u shaped piece of strap to The ends of the remaining member and the floor. I used the outer two original holes with a homemade trans support with a gm type mount.
 
DartGuy67 said:
So, you didn’t have to alter the upper part of the cross member like everyone says you have to? I’m building a 67 convertible and don’t really want to alter my upper part of the cross member if I don’t have to
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What did you end up having to modify? How are you liking the swap?
 
Kern Dog said:
The RE series are fully electronic. You need a stand-alone computer to make them function.
I had a 46RE for sale for awhile here...It was a rebuilt unit with an expensive converter and I was lucky to get $200 for it.
Hold out for a RH unit.
Click to expand...
I have an RE here that I need to rebuild and put back in my Durango, I have way more than $300 out on it so far and still need the brass thrust washers all the snap rings and the rebuild kit for it plus a fresh converter before I can reassemble. Probably gonna have to wait till tax time to be able to get the funds....
That said I have an a500 sitting here collecting dust likewise waiting for $$ for parts ( it was a working pull but had lotsa miles) that I'm debating on putting into my 85 d150... Came from a 91 318 Dakota that I parted out because of rust
 
HGM Electronics has the Compushift unit that controls everything. A couple years ago, they were around 375.00. Then they became unavailable, now, they are available again for a price of over 700.00.
 
lemondana said:
HGM Electronics has the Compushift unit that controls everything. A couple years ago, they were around 375.00. Then they became unavailable, now, they are available again for a price of over 700.00.
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yeah, i saw that. was all: oh, here's a viable option. then i saw the price.

so damn near 800 to flip a switch rather than pull a shifter. no thanks.
 
Installed my 42rh behind the mild 318 last winter. This summer I took it on a 6000 mile road trip. Never missed a beat and really kept the rpms down especially on the interstates. even at 55mph up it was a real boon. I set it up on two switched - completely manual, easy to wire. After the first 1000 miles I found myself shifting out of OD and lock-up as I came into a stop without even really thinking about it. On an A-body it sure is easier than the mods needed for the 727 based version. You are right, the low 1st and second gear were a boost and allowed me to use higher (numerically lower) gears that I would have otherwise.
 
srt12, other than the mods needed for install: floor/x-member fab, wiring for OD/LU, did you do any mods to the trans itself? higher stall? shift kit? etx?
 
str12-340 said:
Installed my 42rh behind the mild 318 last winter. This summer I took it on a 6000 mile road trip. Never missed a beat and really kept the rpms down especially on the interstates. even at 55mph up it was a real boon. I set it up on two switched - completely manual, easy to wire. After the first 1000 miles I found myself shifting out of OD and lock-up as I came into a stop without even really thinking about it. On an A-body it sure is easier than the mods needed for the 727 based version. You are right, the low 1st and second gear were a boost and allowed me to use higher (numerically lower) gears that I would have otherwise.
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What mods were needed to floor, or upper crossmember arch?
 
As for the driveshaft slip yoke, I've read that "there is a difference" and that a 727 yoke fits...But not correctly. And that the 500/518 yoke should be used. Any input about this ??
 
cpearce said:
What mods were needed to floor, or upper crossmember arch?
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I had to remove a good deal of the loop up into the transmission hump, and move the inner transmission cross member bolt on the drivers side away from the trans, including the tube that keeps you from crushing the crossmember with the bolts. We bent a new piece to replace the removed section of the crossmember arch out of much heavier metal, but that is not sufficient in my opinion. There is a terrific amount of stress on that entire crossmember due to the torque of the torsion bars, which will try to bend the entire crossmember down to the middle. That is why the USCT crossmember is soooo damned heavy. It converts the crossmember to one like C-bodies have (which have no loop over the trans), but rather depends on the bolted in crossmember to take the load. This means that when you work on the arch you have to take all the pressure off the torsion bars (back out the adjusters) and you have to do the same every time that you remove the bolted in crossmember. That USCT bolted crossmember also has to be cut back and the bolt moved away from the trans to match the work on the arch. Once you have the trans put up on the crossmember you will see the spots where the trans tunnel needs to be massaged with a hammer - not much, just a little, and no cutting of the floorpan need. There are also some rear pieces of the trans case that need to be cut off - they are there to mount the trans in a truck and are unneeded in a car.

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I hope this helps - I have lots of pics, so PM me if you want more details.
 
junkyardhero said:
srt12, other than the mods needed for install: floor/x-member fab, wiring for OD/LU, did you do any mods to the trans itself? higher stall? shift kit? etx?
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This was for a long distance road trip car and was behind a mildly modified 318 (maybe 275-300hp) so just a heavy duty rebuild and a stage 1 trans-go kit to increase pressures. I bought the trans and related items from a member here who went from the A500 to a 5 or 6 speed manual, and I ended up with a leftover 2800 stall lock up converter if that would be of interest PM me. By the way if you want to use the Mopar console floor shift, the side of the case on the drivers side interferes with the rod that runs through the floor. #MoparMatt2000 copied the one that he made for his son's car. He made a jig when he did the first one so I sent him mine and he did the needed modification. If you ask him really nicely and are willing to pay for it you might get him to do one for you. Figuring it out yourself would take days.
 
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I am getting ready to dig into my 42RH w/lock-up over the winter. I chose it over the 46RH due to low 1st gear and HP loss. Plus I currently run a 904. Do A500 and A518 rebuild kits come with parts for the OD unit included?
What about torque converter selections for internally balanced 5.9? Who is a good source?
 
In these transmissions it's all inside the transmission case - no additional unit. The trans shop that did mine didn't charge me for an extra kit so I presume it came in the base rebuild kit.
 
You guys are making me want to get going on my swap. I got a A-500 core trans several years ago. Last year I found a complete master overhaul kit for the trans, and a not installed Daaco HS lockup converter for $150 for both. Guess I should get my butt in gear and get building.
 
Wow.
I paid 130 from a member here (about what it would have cost me to get one locally) for a low stall version. Looks like there's only 200 rpm difference in stock low vs high stalls. And the high end of the low stall version is the same as the low end of the hi stall version.
Low stall is something like 1600-2000 hi stall is something like 1800-2200 range. Both could theoretically stall at 2000. Though I'm not sure what all influenced that.
Understanding what stall speed is and what effects it is almost as confusing to me as trying to wade thru a cam catalog.
 
65 Dartman said:
The OEM 727 in the A100 was a short tailshaft unit and as such the driveshaft was no more about than 18 inches long. The A500 is a pretty long unit due to the extra length of the OD unit and the OD unit of the A500 will eat up most, if not all of the space the original driveshaft occupies. You might not even have room for a driveshaft!
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I have a 727 here that came out of a 64 pickup with a /6 and the adapter plate, it looks as long as any other normal length 727 except it's longer by the length of the brake drum hanging off the back.
 
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