How much did it cost you?

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I bought the 72 Dart in 2000 for $6500 and sold it in 2012 for $7000. I enjoyed it driving to car shows and weekends but always wanted a Duster or Demon and when I found this one done for $15,000 I jumped on it. Some people enjoy the build but I prefer to let those that enjoy and know how to do it have that role and then I just buy it and enjoy the hell out of it. The Demon is not perfect and I have had to do some work on it but I do not mind doing small stuff. First time I took it to a cruise in I won a plaque for one of top ten cars at show.
 

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Duster_71 said:
I’ve been looking for a reasonable price Duster for awhile, something to tinker with. I’ve been scared off of a couple because of the needed body work and the perceived cost that accompanies it. Now, I know you can’t get into many reasonably priced 70-73 Dusters without them needing some kind of body work, I get it. The fact is I do not know what kind of money this stuff could run into; I just believe that it could add up faster than my wife may be able to tolerate. So, what sheet metal have you guys had replaced/repaired and what was the associated cost? I know everyone’s situation is different and I do not expect my situation to replicate anybody else’s. I’m just interested in the what and how much as a way to determine just how close or far off my assumptions may be, thanks.
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I appreciate everyone’s insight and participation in this thread. Unfortunately, for me, nobody has really revealed the specifics I was seeking. I’m not looking for overall cost to restore your cars. I was seeking the specifics as to what sheet metal (i.e., quarters, rockers, floors, trunks, etc.) you had replaced and the associated cost to have the work done. Additionally, if you are one of the lucky ones and can do and have done your own body works what would you have charged somebody else to do the same work?
 
the first question is do you want a fully restored piece or a good fun looking driver the diff would be $$$ my son & I found a barn find 73 duster h code matching #'s 340 everything worked needed body work did it myself wind shield center console carpet & other small stuff shook bush's like this sight ect time & just looking after 4 year's it's done money invested maybe 6 grand + time just had it appraised for injsurance $ 22,000 I did not tear it comploeatly done that may come later but for now i'll drive it and enjoy
 
Duster_71 said:
I appreciate everyone’s insight and participation in this thread. Unfortunately, for me, nobody has really revealed the specifics I was seeking. I’m not looking for overall cost to restore your cars. I was seeking the specifics as to what sheet metal (i.e., quarters, rockers, floors, trunks, etc.) you had replaced and the associated cost to have the work done. Additionally, if you are one of the lucky ones and can do and have done your own body works what would you have charged somebody else to do the same work?
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I can see where you're coming from, but the value of said work varies IMMENSELY depending on the level of rot (does the panel need to be patched or replaced entirely?), the availability of patch parts and new sheetmetal (are you buying a separate parts car or do the junk yards near you have parts car to get metal off of? Does AMD or Rock Auto or any other outfit make the part you need?), the level of detail you want invested (Do you want the new panels brazed in, spot welded, leaded, panel-bonded? Do you mind using more filler or do you want as little filler as possible?), and the general area where you live (are there a lot of body guys around? Are they busy or are they looking for work? Do they do good work, or are you going to pay for it twice like I did?)

There are so many variables associated with body work that assigning cost estimates will be a shot in the dark at best. According to your first post, you do not yet own the car, so you have two options:
1. Read through all of the posts above and take some of our advice (the members posting above have been through this before, and are trying to help you not make the same mistakes we did).
2. Go to a few of your local body shops and ask them for cost estimates. Most of them (if they are true body men) will want to see the car, but perhaps you can explain to them you are looking for realistic cost estimates. Give them the worst case scenario and see what they say.

We're here to help answer your questions, but there's not always a firm answer to be found.

I don't mean to come off rude, I am only trying to explain the responses and why they were offered in the first place.

-Mike
 
LOL no one can answer this question without seeing the car that needs the work, the price will be different depending on the amount of rust being repaired and be surprised if every body shop gives you a different quote . Around here 98 % of the body shops wont touch resto work in any way so its hard to find will even do it let alone give you a deal . I can say from my personal experience you can buy a done car for 40 % of the cost of restoring one yourself especially if you want an A body . I spent 50 k on my resto and did all the mechanical and interior myself and when the car was done in late 1980s it woth maybe 20k , this car is the fisrt car i ever owned so to me it was about it being my first car . (1970 340 4 speed cuda conv ) . Buy a done car, make you like the paint and body work on the car , everything else unbolts and can be changed to your likeing .
 
How close to a technical college that offers Auto Collision Repair are you? I was/am very lucky to have one about 17 miles away. I took ACR classes at night and have done two cars, ground up restores.
To answer your question directly, you couldn't pay me enough to do your car!!!

I probably have $7,500 - $8,000 max in the Duster. $10-12,000 in the 'bird.
C
 

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I bought a rust free car from the desert southwest. Paid $1500 plus transport of $1000 to get it myself 4000 miles round trip! Got it home to discover piss poor crash damage repairs! Paid $1500 to AMD for 2 full quarters, tail panel, trunk gutters and inner quarter extensions. Then I found a good body shop to work a panel at a time, until all the bolt ons were straight and in primer, have $1500 in the bolt ons! By the way they did me a solid by using my stuff as filler work when they slowed down. Then I finished up with the shell during the summer when that same body shop was off of peak season. As of now, the shell ate another $3k! It sits in primer, edges all trimmed in and jambs all painted body color. No interior compartment paint, except under hood, that is finish painted! Side note, all the bolt ons are trimmed in and visible undersides/ interior spaces body colored as well! I am scared to total that up, but that is how it sits for now, and like I said the body shop did me a solid! Another side note.... The body shop owner was a 70 year old old-time body man. He shrunk and metal finished the dings, dents and bruises... Very very little filler in my shell! Again scared to tally my bodywork totals at this point. I don't want to know how bad I have been lying to my wife! I wouldn't sell my shell for $15k at this point!!!!
 
Oh hell as long as I am at it and you are asking... I stripped 90% of the car to bare metal for the body shop... That includes the bolt-on panels. I also have about $200 in rollback costs to get the car to the bodyshop. At this point I have to finish "de-undercoating" the bottom, need to clean, prep and primer and paint the interior and trunk. Then I have to paint the exterior... My body man retired! So my brothers brother in law, is giving me the family discount... Materials, plus a trade of a handgun I don't need! Any of you firearm enthusiasts know, there is no such thing! So I will have to buy a good quality new pistol for him...figure about $650, plus $1100-1200 in materials! Hey you asked!
 
I paid $2k for my '74 Duster. 91k mile car, all original paint, some minor dents and dings, with a barely clinging to life /6. No rust, no need to replace ANY panels. I've dropped in a 340 4 speed and rebuilt almost all the suspension at this point. Even with all the money I spent on the 340, I'm pretty sure I have less than $10k in the car. Not a show car by any means, but I don't have to paint it, don't have to replace any body panels, and should be able to drive it anywhere I want once I get a few more "new drivetrain" bugs sorted out. I bought the car just over a year ago, and drove it to work with a 400+ hp 340 yesterday.

My advice? Don't buy rusty. It would be well worth shipping a Duster like mine to the East Coast for the amount you'd save in time, money, and mental anguish.

As it's pictured here, I had less than $3k into it.
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I was given the duster I have. So no purchase price. I have not done any body work as it is in good condition now with only a few dents and scratches. Interior is fine also, so not touching it. It won 3rd place in its first show last weekend. It had a /6 in it. I do not have time or any of the equipment to do "heavy" things like a motor swap or a transmission rebuild (wish I did though), so I paid for everything to be checked out and replaced. I added the receipts up and I am at $4600 bucks to go from a car in a barn for 13 yrs to doing 90 mph on the four lane. That money got me a 318 with holley 650, eldlebrock performer rpm intake, high compression heads, all seals replaced, a rebuilt 904, headers, all AC parts, new 2.5 inch exhaust, new tires, new brakes, new gas tank, new radiator, new motor mounts, a few small things that Im forgetting, and paying someone to do all the labor. This winter I am reworking the front end but all the parts alone are 200 bucks so ill be knocking on 5k invested on a free car, but hey that's a cool price for all the folks that turn their heads to watch you drive by:finga:
 
Well being here in so Cali I just bought a rust free Feather Duster. You need to keep looking and get lucky to find the wright car. I have always wanted a feather dust but never seem to find any not many made. Plus the ones that were made are not muscle cars /6 some autos some 4 spds. Many we're crushed but 1500 and only 56000 miles has hurst 4spd and only one 1x2 inch patch needed on driver fender. Had dirt in fender car sat for 20 years. No rust in the trunk just shinny paint. I have found a number of cars duster demons for sale even H code 340 cars in non driving shape or need water pump radiator or tranny repair. Many drivers for about 6000. Here only the lower quarters and fenders normal need any patch work the frames are solid mostly the floors and trucks are also. Shipping for so cal to east coast is about 1100 for non running and 750 for running car. I am willing to look for one for you if your serious.
 
I'm enjoying restoring my 75 Swinger!!!! I got it trading a 1974 Ford Courier straight across..... It may not be the car that everyone is looking for, but it's ALL MINE!!!!! I was a tech for almost 20 years, so everything that has been done to the car so far, has been done by me!!! The car in my avatar is a car that got me into looking for the one I have now....... I missed my Scamp so bad!!!!
 
jimjimjimmy said:
save yourself all kinds of grief and buy one finished or near finished and much cheaper in the long run .
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IF you can do all the work yourself, and IF your work is the quality you want in the finished product, then by all means buy a fixer upper. However, I PROMISE you that when you are done, you will probably have more in it than you could have purchased a very nice one for that is already done. Although you can restore, modify of fix up a car for less than $20K, more often than not, once you start digging in, you wind up doing more and more. A decent interior with door panels and carpet will be at least $2500, materials only for a good paint job is at least $2500, motor/transmission work plan on at last $3000, chrome work, etc..... It adds up fast. I do all my own work because I can and because I am VERY picky (even anal), but even so, I probably have more in my car than I could sell it for. So again, unless you can do all your own work, consider buying a completed car.
 
Woods74 said:
Wahhh wahhh, body work wahhh wahhh.

It ain't that hard, plenty of tutorials on it, dig in people. IMO A car isn't truly yours until you personally have done all aspects of restoration.

I love the "it's not my talent" excuse, I hear that one a bunch. The truth is, if you want it, it's a skill, you will get it.

Here is some inspiration:

Making panels....... | Retro Rides

Enjoy!
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I TOTALLY agree. However, not everybody can wrench and do body work and paint and interior work and etc. We don't know what his skill level is. I also TOTALLY agree with the posts saying that if you do the work yourself, there is more pride, etc. But if you can't do all your own work, buy a finished car.
 
my take. there are 2 type of cars, driver and the so called show poodle. perfect cars cost lots of $$ whether you pay someone for the work, or you do it, or u buy it already done. then take your expensive poodle to the car show, spend the $20 entry, and someone else drives home with the $5 plastic trophy, but many people enjoy this.
or find a driver quality car, that someone has done reasonable quality work, needs to sell, it a driver and buy it for a reasonable price. drive it and enjoy it. YOU learn how to improve it as time and $$ and the wife allows.
OR look for an early A body. out there and CHEAP if you look. yes YOU might have to pay transport to get it from the seller to you.
 
I do most types of work for customers and quote stuff fairly regularly. You will always spend more than you think. Buy the best car you can afford, and talk about the risks with the wife. It's not different than spending $30K on a minivan of six years, but it's only being spent because you like it and want the enjoyment. So it's definately a "discussion" deal. As for "how much"... I get $500-1000 a side for full quarters depending on what else is bad... and there's always something else. Rust repairs, bodywork, and paint $50/hr. So cost is entirely dependent on the car. You can make it easier by buying a car that has a lot of reproduction body parts made for it. I did a '71 Bee last year and it was very expensive because we had to buy chunks and harvest parts. That bill is $8K just for steel work: one full 1/4, cowl cap, firewall, one inner fender, rear floor pans, trunk extensions, lots of smaller rust repairs, and left the car in etch primer. On a car that there are few parts for you're doing a lot of the work twice. The last car was a 5.0L mustang I did some frame rot repair, painted the engine bay, added some suspension, removed hood pins, and painted the hood. After materials (he provided the suspension) the bill was $2500.
The '68 Barracuda in the shop needs a rear floor and I'm guessing that will end up in the $1500 area depending on how bad the frame rails are.

Edit: I'll add - rust always goes down. If the roof is rusted through - everything below should be suspect. Vinyl top cars were not painted under the top - so they are typically much worse. I'll also note a lot of cars for sale now have old, amature work done and that is coming through already. Be wary of fresh body work, and cars with a of of filler in places that should not have it.
 
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Paid $10k for my '70 duster 6 years ago car was out of California totally "rust free" except for 1 spot about the size of a quarter on pass.rear quarter..have over $30k into it now:D:D
 
Still feel the same about it as I did the day I posted the first time. Did all the work myself from a rot box, still feel about it every time I hit the key. Still solid as a tank.

You can't buy that. I hope that everyone that does a restoration can feel the same thing.

What did it cost me? A bunch of sweat, time, money.

Was it worth it? Hell yes!

Are we ever done? Absolutely not.
 
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I'm going for a " buy the best you can car and then making it better" BUT I did the exact opposite of what I just said. I like beatin on metal and working on the cars. so my first florida car restoration was the worst type of car project you could get. yeah it was rusty as all get out. the only good thing I could say for it was the frame rails and rockers were solid. no rust anywhere in that area. all the other areas did require work(lots of work)
dartbarracuda 040.jpg



looks sorta ok here in the pictures don't it? well about 50lbs of bondo removal and tons of grinding disks it looked like this

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no floor pan even the trunk had to be removed. A lot of work later it is looking like this
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and it looks pretty straight too!
I have tons of time into the car (800.00 price including a new black top with no rear window, front and rear seat skins I'm not using since I went a different way on color.) but less than 2k total in parts as of now. I will have another 3k into it for engine work,MegasquirtII, exhaust and turbo work. but that's what I'm saving for since I'm finishing up the top and interior install (yeah making new parts for it too) so it's getting done and I like doing it. I do have a back up car (70 challenger ,440-4spd-6 pack) so it does not hurt too bad to take my time on this one!
 
66Dvert said:
I'm going for a " buy the best you can car and then making it better" BUT I did the exact opposite of what I just said. I like beatin on metal and working on the cars. so my first florida car restoration was the worst type of car project you could get. yeah it was rusty as all get out. the only good thing I could say for it was the frame rails and rockers were solid. no rust anywhere in that area. all the other areas did require work(lots of work) View attachment 1714979735


looks sorta ok here in the pictures don't it? well about 50lbs of bondo removal and tons of grinding disks it looked like this

View attachment 1714979737

no floor pan even the trunk had to be removed. A lot of work later it is looking like this
View attachment 1714979738
View attachment 1714979739

and it looks pretty straight too!
I have tons of time into the car (800.00 price including a new black top with no rear window, front and rear seat skins I'm not using since I went a different way on color.) but less than 2k total in parts as of now. I will have another 3k into it for engine work,MegasquirtII, exhaust and turbo work. but that's what I'm saving for since I'm finishing up the top and interior install (yeah making new parts for it too) so it's getting done and I like doing it. I do have a back up car (70 challenger ,440-4spd-6 pack) so it does not hurt too bad to take my time on this one!
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I paid $4000 for my 67 notch, rust free and running. One owner car so it was worth a premium to me. Since then, about another $15,000 invested and just interior and tires left. Mine will be finished April or May of 2017.
I just paid $2,500 for a 1940 Ford pickup, complete no rust but plenty of patina. Project build, making the plans now.
My finished 1965 Comet 2D post will be on the market in May of 2017.
DR------:)
 
We've only got about $6K, into our Duster (So far!). Paid $4K for the car and sunk another $2K getting it on the back road. Was pretty solid to start with, rear quarters were already replaced. Just needed a bunch of small stuff and repairs to get it road worthy. Will never be a show car, though we do plan on new paint at some point.

Be well,
Pat
 
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