How screwed is my K-member?

[poconos_power]

Looks like the 70-72 K member in that ebay link I shared passes the sway bar through the same place as the 73+ but I could be wrong about that. If there are upgraded biscuit mounts that remove the risk of flopping, perhaps I should grab that one off ebay and hope it's good.

 

[Dartnut]

My thanks to Jim Lusk who is the K-Member guru around here, especially modifying a stock spool mount K-Member for a big block!
And I agree, the factory welds usually are terrible throughout the years.
I applaud you (the OP) for making the post about your problems with your K-Member with detailed pics.
Truth be told, I am a journeyman welder that knows a thing or two and has modified/reinforced several K-Members over the years...
That being said, I really prefer the '73 and up spool mount K-Member over the '72 and older puck mount ones. They seem like a stronger design.
But, The puck mount K-Members are good as well... as long as you use a torque strap on the driver's side.
Do what you need to get your car on the road whether you fix what you have or use the older puck style...

 

[72bluNblu]

Looks like the 70-72 K member in that ebay link I shared passes the sway bar through the same place as the 73+ but I could be wrong about that. If there are upgraded biscuit mounts that remove the risk of flopping, perhaps I should grab that one off ebay and hope it's good.

The K in that link has been modified. It appears to be a 73+ K frame that has had the engine mounts added, probably a /6 to V8 conversion.

67-72 K’s are closed on the bottom.

 

[junkyardhero]

And other than the sway bar tab location, 73+ LCA’s are the same as 67-72. Maybe even 64-72? I’m not an early A expert.

all the 62~76 arms interchange with the difference being in swaybar tabs.

there's granular differences like the stamping ribs in the arms or bump stop shape/height as well as mounting pin, but physically they're all identical and will slide right in.